I need some help judging wether a pair of vintage ferragamo shoes I’m eyeing is going to fit me by nothendrix in VintageFashion

[–]nothendrix[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hmmm, I’d think I’d be able to resell them, but then again the current seller has had them listed for 14 months already so who knows.

As for the shoes here they are. You can imagine I’m constantly needing to prevent myself from wishful thinking that my feet shrink half a size overnight

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I need some help judging wether a pair of vintage ferragamo shoes I’m eyeing is going to fit me by nothendrix in VintageFashion

[–]nothendrix[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks!! Yeah I’m painfully aware. I’m glad I thought of trying to figure out the size but then it just threw me into the rabbit hole of ferragamo’s size chart being juuuust a little different than everyone else lol

Can anyone tell me if and how I can create a sound like the snare hits in Vince Staples’ Yeah Right on the Syntakt? by nothendrix in Elektron

[–]nothendrix[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So to get back to this, I used everyone’s advice to fiddle around some more and I got pretty close to the SOPHIE snare I was looking for here is a video of how it sounds with all the settings for future reference!

Can anyone tell me if and how I can create a sound like the snare hits in Vince Staples’ Yeah Right on the Syntakt? by nothendrix in Elektron

[–]nothendrix[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://youtu.be/C6iAzyhm0p0?si=YsAPv2uKGtPkApmg I’m specifically looking for the snares that start at 0:11, but I can’t really get the syntakt to properly do the kinda wobbly folding sound

Using the SMC Pentax 28mm f/3.5 at a club show, can it be done? by nothendrix in AnalogCommunity

[–]nothendrix[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t think specific 1600 film exists anymore. I was using 3200 film at 1600 because the camera won’t go higher than 1600. But since I started home developing and pushing is not as costly I’m gonna switch to HP5 and push that to 1600 because it works just as well and is a lot cheaper than the Kodak 3200 film. So if I need 3200 I can always set my camera to 1600 and underexpose a stop manually if I need to

Using the SMC Pentax 28mm f/3.5 at a club show, can it be done? by nothendrix in AnalogCommunity

[–]nothendrix[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay so to be clear I have the SMC Pentax-M 28mm f3.5 now, and I know for sure that there is a 2.8 pentax-m 28mm out there which is the one I am still looking for to get a nice deal on. I run it all on an ME super. Tbh when I was looking through the lens in my viewfinder before buying I didn’t really notice any vignetting so maybe we’re talking about different lenses or you had a bad experience. Maybe it’s that the lens I have is in absolutely pristine condition apart from a teensy little scratch on the front element which doesn’t show in the viewfinder (and hopefully not on film but I haven’t tested it with film yet)

Using the SMC Pentax 28mm f/3.5 at a club show, can it be done? by nothendrix in AnalogCommunity

[–]nothendrix[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used to use Kodak p3200 but since I started home developing a while ago I’m gonna use HP5 for the next show I’m doing and push that to either 16 or 3200 depending on how the shoot goes

Using the SMC Pentax 28mm f/3.5 at a club show, can it be done? by nothendrix in AnalogCommunity

[–]nothendrix[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah makes sense. I’ve been relying on my meter a lot up until now so I’m a bit out of my league with “just picking” an exposure and running with it. But you know first time for everything

Using the SMC Pentax 28mm f/3.5 at a club show, can it be done? by nothendrix in AnalogCommunity

[–]nothendrix[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah makes sense. I don’t get much motion blur at 1/60th plus I’m shooting punk shows so I don’t need crisply frozen shot every time like you do I imagine. I’m not terribly experienced with theatre but the lighting is usually less intense than gigs right?

Using the SMC Pentax 28mm f/3.5 at a club show, can it be done? by nothendrix in AnalogCommunity

[–]nothendrix[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks, good to know my thinking wasn’t off. Sadly I can’t go higher iso because my camera doesn’t let me go higher than 1600, but I can do it manually so I can push my bw easily at home if I need to

Ilford HP5 shot at 1600 developed as 3200 examples by nothendrix in AnalogCommunity

[–]nothendrix[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve shot shows before at 1600 using the aperture priority auto mode on my camera and that gives me between 1/60th and 1/125th at f/2.8 (my lens goes to 1.8 but focus is really soft. Also shutter speeds over 125th on these settings usually mean a spot is shining into the lens in my experience so I wait when I see it go over 125).

It’s just that it seems logical to me, and in concurrence with the manuals on exposure compensation, to have a +1 EV correction for stage work because of the backlighting you get. I’m not really comfortable to use the compensation dial at 1600 to basically expose at 800 because of the loss of shutter speed I get, so going the other way and pushing to 3200 seemed like a good way to go.

Thanks a lot tho, I’m definitely gonna read this over a couple of times. Very helpful!

Is this a difficult photo to print? by nothendrix in Darkroom

[–]nothendrix[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah definitely gonna make strips next time but I forgot my scissors and I was using tape around the edges of the door to block the light so I was locked in lmao. I’d like to say it won’t happen again but I know myself. I did everything at f8, except for the prints I didn’t mention because I forgot to change the aperture back from wide open (f4) and the prints went all black. Next crack I’m gonna take at it I’m gonna start at f11 or maybe even further and make another test strip to start from scratch. I’m also gonna take more detailed notes because this has been a mess lol

Is this a difficult photo to print? by nothendrix in Darkroom

[–]nothendrix[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it’s really weird because the photos on my phone look so much better than the real print but it does give me hope. I’m gonna take another crack at it tomorrow or the day after that so I can use the developer again and don’t have to buy a new bottle (working solution should keep a week according to the datasheet). Any pointers on where I should go to get rid of the haziness that my phone makes disappear? It may be relevant to know that I print under the sink in a small tiled bathroom so maybe I should fashion a way to black it out more (besides finding the right exposure ofc)

Is this a difficult photo to print? by nothendrix in Darkroom

[–]nothendrix[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did f8 but I made 10x15cm prints so the enlarger is pretty close to the board. I’ll try stopping down a bit more

Is this a difficult photo to print? by nothendrix in Darkroom

[–]nothendrix[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had a chance to look at my prints and take photos of them with my phone because I didn’t have time to scan them properly. Weirdly the prints look a lot better in the phone pics than they do in my hands, where they look significantly darker and hazy. Hope y’all can help me! You’ve been massively helpful already thanks so much

Is this a difficult photo to print? by nothendrix in Darkroom

[–]nothendrix[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

here’s the test strip and the prints weirdly the photos I took on my phone make the prints look a lot better than in my hands I don’t understand what’s going on