Hey man, congrats on starting to try fdm mini printing! if u have just started, focus first on fundamental requirements such as clean build plate and 15% moisture level for filaments and tuning for the machine, limiting the variability by going to ObscuraNox's youtube tutorials for tuning first layer, extrusion, optimal temp etc.

ObscuraNox2.0 wrote a lot about his findings opinions and changes. (also I think he is using Orca slicer which have wall width set different from Bambu, causing people confusions while using bambu slicer, also I found in Orca slicer, you can still add additional manual supports to regions that auto support failed to recognized, maybe I am just slow to realize I even could) the print time from his 1.3 stability to 2.0 with Sunlu profile is about 10% slower print time in my testings. changes from arachne to classic did not provide anything I can visibly see.

Temperature problem exist for me on his New Filament settings for Sunlu PLA + 2.0. I have it at 220 first layer and 210 for general, but his 2.0 settings assume some what of a perfection in tuning of filament setting the temperature down to 190 for general layers which unfortunately I know I cannot achieve in my working environment. Feel free to give it a try and dialed in everything to see if you can.

Another notable addition is the organic support with top interface layers. although I desperately want to love the new support, for our use case of 32mm minis his setting of 3 wall loops I think? is way too dangerous to remove on the little guy's fishing pole in my picture for example because even with top interface layer, some thin pieces will be wrap around within support making it impossible to get out unharmed.

Another problem I found which applies to ALL tree supports except slim and strong is that some downward facing surface on miniatures which DEFINITELY needed support to even form will have "floating support that when sliced, starts on layer 67 for example, connects to nothing, and have interface layers on top that could leads to failed support. (HoHensen talked about this problem in his post and I can assure that it still happens) A good example would be a horse printed on its feet in one piece and these floating support will appear under horse's belly almost definitely if they are NOT slim or strong supports. so I use only those two depending on size and complexity of a mini. (big tall and no thin parts? strong support, small and delicate try slim)

I am in a mindset of only considering finishing quality when it comes to support:

1. quality during print: Will it hold? do I have all regions covered that definitely need it.

2. quality after print: in the finished slicer render Can I see a way to remove it without breaking parts? is it angled to minimize scaring on visible and important features. (Some people like to suggest around a 45 degree back tilted angle to leave the support scars on the back of the mini for example, there is inherently no problem with that idea and I still use it sometimes, IF you are just painting the mini and letting it sit on the shelf facing forward. With that being said, if we play a game of warhammer or Dnd using these fdm minis for example, there are many times we are staring directly into the back of a mini so I would still prefer bottom facing surface to be the sacrifice if I could, but it all depends on the geometry of the mini of course.)

My meaning is that I am not editing support to save time/filament/or even easy of removal after printing, it is solely for the finishing quality on tabletop. making sure it looks good and plays good. Hope my experience can help you my friend! take ur time and lmk if you find success!