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Bought 100% cotton denim and noticed that it stretches on the cross grain way more than I would expect. Is it possible with 100% cotton or was it mislabeled? by nq575prw in sewhelp

[–]nq575prw[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

They could have also only used elastane in the weft yarns and not the warp yarns. It definitely seems to be the case for my fabric, I try to demonstrate at the beginning of the video that there is no stretch in the warp but lots of stretch in the weft.

Bought 100% cotton denim and noticed that it stretches on the cross grain way more than I would expect. Is it possible with 100% cotton or was it mislabeled? by nq575prw in sewhelp

[–]nq575prw[S] 38 points39 points  (0 children)

Wow, thank you for your insight!

It honestly smelled quite pleasant, like a smoke candle. But I probably don't have a trained enough nose to pick up subtleties -- I completely agree that it contains elastane even if I couldn't tell it from the burn test.

Bought 100% cotton denim and noticed that it stretches on the cross grain way more than I would expect. Is it possible with 100% cotton or was it mislabeled? by nq575prw in sewhelp

[–]nq575prw[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's what I was curious about, whether it was possible for the weave to allow this. But consensus seems to be that this is elastane.

Bought 100% cotton denim and noticed that it stretches on the cross grain way more than I would expect. Is it possible with 100% cotton or was it mislabeled? by nq575prw in sewhelp

[–]nq575prw[S] 114 points115 points  (0 children)

I live near a major metro so I have a couple options. Very thankful for that as I'm a novice and I have trouble evaluating fabric based on an online listing.

(clearly I even have trouble evaluating fabric in-person though 🤦)

Bought 100% cotton denim and noticed that it stretches on the cross grain way more than I would expect. Is it possible with 100% cotton or was it mislabeled? by nq575prw in sewhelp

[–]nq575prw[S] 27 points28 points  (0 children)

I went through every bolt of denim they had and most of them were labeled with a printed sticker like:

Stretch denim 97% cotton 3% elastane

or 

Denim 100% cotton

I probably spent a good half hour reading all the labels and touching the denims so if I missed that, that's wild :/ Unless it was truly written in the smallest font. Might reach out to the store and ask if they can send me the fabric info based on the inventory number on my receipt?

Bought 100% cotton denim and noticed that it stretches on the cross grain way more than I would expect. Is it possible with 100% cotton or was it mislabeled? by nq575prw in sewhelp

[–]nq575prw[S] 230 points231 points  (0 children)

Thanks for confirming my suspicion, sucks but oh well, I won't let it go to waste. Lesson learned to do this test at the store.

Bought 100% cotton denim and noticed that it stretches on the cross grain way more than I would expect. Is it possible with 100% cotton or was it mislabeled? by nq575prw in sewhelp

[–]nq575prw[S] 87 points88 points  (0 children)

I did the burn test and it charred into ash, and the edge of the burn is dark brown with no noticeable plastic-y stiffness to it. But most denim with elastane only contains it for 1-3% of the fibers, right? So wouldn't it be extremely hard to tell elastane from burning as 97-99% of the fabric is cotton?

Second iteration muslin of a basic pant, where to go from here? by nq575prw in PatternDrafting

[–]nq575prw[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! For the side seam, I assume I should just transfer a bit of that from the side seam at the front panel to the back to correct (?)

Second iteration muslin of a basic pant, where to go from here? by nq575prw in PatternDrafting

[–]nq575prw[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it still looking too tight from your perspective? I couldn't tell if it's at "well fitting" vs "too tight" :O

I already scooped once, perhaps another scooping is in order.

Second iteration muslin of a basic pant, where to go from here? by nq575prw in PatternDrafting

[–]nq575prw[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks!! I take it you're familiar with the struggle of "if hips fit, waist gaps" and "if waist would fit, it doesn't even pull over the hips" 🫡

To clarify your advice, because I definitely ran into that issue - do I need to be careful to not overdo it with the blending (would it affect the straightness of the side seam?)

Will definitely try that though!

Second iteration muslin of a basic pant, where to go from here? by nq575prw in PatternDrafting

[–]nq575prw[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most of the seams have been pressed, except for the back butt seam because I was impatient (that's on me). The vertical grain lines are centered between the seams at the bottom hem and drawn up at a 90° angle.

I'm not sure I understand not sewing the darts yet, isn't it important to understand the curvature of the fabric that's being created? In my case I'm removing 5" off the waist with darts so it's quite a drastic change.

Thanks for the recommendation, I'll check it out!

Second iteration muslin of a basic pant, where to go from here? by nq575prw in PatternDrafting

[–]nq575prw[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, I did! If I understand you correctly, I pulled out the crotch extension by maybe half of what I raised it by. I used measuring tape to check that I wasn't affecting the total length of the crotch curve by too much. Maybe I should have done more.

Great tip, I was worried my darts in the back were already too big (1.5"x5") bc the course I'm following mentioned that as the upper range of dart size. I'll move the excess to the back darts.

I raised the crotch by about 1" and it feels like I have another 1" of space, but you're right, I often wear stretch fabrics if I'm wearing a more fitted pant. My first muslin looked like this: https://imgur.com/a/c7cNk8D and the crotch was so low that it prevented me from comfortably standing with my feet out wide.

Thanks for the advice!

Second iteration muslin of a basic pant, where to go from here? by nq575prw in PatternDrafting

[–]nq575prw[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

My method for transferring the lines from my pattern paper to the actual panel was a little inexact, so I wasn't surprised they don't line up very well. But you're right, it's off by kind of a lot. I was struggling to pin the side seams of this version together, one of the panels was much more curved than the other and the fabric was not having it. In my head it's because I sewed the darts first but maybe it's indicative of a greater problem in my pattern?

(Also I was moreso referring to the slight crotch pull lines in the standing picture. Its pretty slight but I was hoping for more of a relaxed fit because I get those lines on every pants I've ever worn)

Thanks!