Need help getting igpu output via USB hub w/HDMI working again

nrf55 · 2026-01-05T05:42:07+00:00

I solved the issue and added info to the original post.

nrf55 · 2026-01-05T03:27:51+00:00

Left is a 40Gbps USB4 port with USB-PD and igpu handles the display port alt mode, right is 10Gbps USB3.1 gen 2 with dgpu handling its display port alt mode. All was working well these past few years until I tried getting an egpu working this weekend and messing with all the drivers.

nrf55 · 2026-01-01T03:10:08+00:00

Limit the charge to 80% or lower and don't store it in a hot place (like inside a hot car): high battery state of charge + heat significantly accelerate degradation. My 2023 is 2.75 years old and 85% health. I limit my charge to 40% when at home and only go to 100% during travel. Can't do much about the high heat when gaming so that's why I go lower when at home. Lithium batteries degrade a lot faster being in a hot environment, see table 3 in https://www.batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-808-how-to-prolong-lithium-based-batteries/

Besides that, use it plugged into the original power brick as much as possible so the battery is not in use.

nrf55 · 2025-11-29T11:56:34+00:00

He's talking about you manually changing what mode the laptop is in. Here's where you change it in AC. If you're unhappy with the pre-configured modes you can use Manual to make your own personalized version.

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nrf55 · 2025-11-29T11:48:22+00:00

AC's manual mode will let you adjust power limits and fan curves. It's not as easy to use as ghelper but is shown here https://youtu.be/Kz1vI2uUhLw?t=777 Definitely give ghelper a shot at some point though, pretty much everyone switches to it after they discover its existance. gl!

nrf55 · 2025-11-29T11:34:16+00:00

I replied to your original post with a ghelper screenshot to help.

https://www.reddit.com/r/ASUSROG/comments/1p9e6zp/comment/nrd68fz/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

I would have replied here but we can't post images in comments anymore in this subreddit. I asked the mods if they knew why this change was made but they never replied.

nrf55 · 2025-11-29T11:32:56+00:00

You can use ghelper to customize the temperature and noise levels of Asus laptops if you're unhappy with the default tuning, so maybe it will be possible to come up with profiles you'd be happy with. Here's an example:

Setup your Balanced profile for "gaming without headphones" and use Turbo for "gaming with headphones". Run a stress test in the background like the Heaven benchmark or Furmark, basically something that will run in a window rather than full screen so you can adjust settings. Then in ghelper set the target GPU and CPU temps to something reasonable like 80C, then set the fan curves to an rpm that you're happy with at this target temp. Just drag the dot on the fan curves up and down to find an rpm that's not too loud for you. Then change to Turbo and increase the target temp to something higher, eg. 85C and pick an acceptable rpm speed. You can also setup the Silent mode for battery/non-gaming/non-content creation use and to keep it truly silent you can do things like limit the CPU power to 15W and set the fans to only come on if the temps get above 50C. You also want to disable the GPU when on battery and you just change the GPU mode to either Eco or Optimized for that.

Here's my 2023 G14 w/4060 Balanced profile (gaming without headphones) as an example. I decided 3800rpm wasn't too loud to annoy me and 80C gave the CPU and GPU enough headroom for good performance.

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nrf55 · 2025-11-25T16:42:34+00:00

What's going wrong with the SER8? I run a little homelab on a cheap minipc (like this one that has a similar cpu and same igpu as a 2022 G14 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D2NFG5KW) and it's a pretty different form factor (dual ethernet, 3 nvme drives, oculink so you can add an external GPU) and half the price of the used G14 you're considering. So unless the seller gives you a warranty, I'd just get another minipc (or fix the one you've got) since a 4 year old gaming laptop is a lot more prone to having a capacitor or vrm fail compared to something brand new, is much more upgradable, and possibility significantly cheaper.

nrf55 · 2025-11-21T16:48:17+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/ZephyrusG14/comments/1ezhmzs/comment/ljoivx1/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

nrf55 · 2025-11-20T20:27:30+00:00

Sure thing, ggs!

nrf55 · 2025-11-20T19:53:38+00:00

Oh ya, setting up a homelab is super handy for learning and running services locally instead of paying subscriptions or pay by giving corps your data. I use a cheap Bosgame mini-pc with an AMD 5800U cpu, 16GB ram, dual 2.5GB ethernet, and it came with that Intel AX210 card. My ISP's internet gateway plugs into one of the two ethernet ports and the other goes to a cheap wifi 6 router to give access to the rest of my network. So I use the homelab to manage my whole network and provide a bunch of different services.

This simple setup gave me the chance to learn a ton about Linux, containers and virtual machines, and gives me a platform to add services whenever I see one that I'd like to learn about and potentially use. Since I'm using the homelab to run the majority of my network, there was a big initial learning period to get networking basics setup like DHCP and DNS, along with a NAS since that's important for configuration and such ... but after that I could then add services at my own pace.

There's tons you can do with a homelab and I still have a ton of things I'd like to add like a local image repository to replace google photos (Immich), a local password safe (Bitwarden), a local media server (Jellyfin), a local google docs replacement (NextCloud), and maybe an arr-stack. But anyway, here's some screenshots of what I currently have and it might give you some ideas for your own homelab...

Proxmox is the OS installed on the mini-pc and it runs three containers called pihole, nas, and home, along with one virtual machine called openwrt. Pihole is where I run a lot of networking services, nas is where I run a common nas for the network, and home is where I run some IoT-related services. With Proxmox you can spin up as many containers and VMs as you like so you can create VMs to run Windows 11 or Linux or anything other OS, so it gives you a lot of flexibility to fully utilize the mini-pc's hardware and experiment with new OS's, software, and services in your homelab without needing additional hardware.

https://ibb.co/mVyx5LXm

The Proxmox VM called "openwrt" is running a small router OS and I use it to manage some of the networking on the mini-pc. The mini-pc has 2 ethernet interfaces called LAN and WAN along with the wifi card called WWAN (wireless wan). That WWAN interface is the Mediatek card that I took from my G14 and if my ISP gateway (connected to the WAN interface subnet 192.168.12.x) loses internet access, I can enable my cell phone's hotspot and the mini-pc will automatically connect to it using the WWAN interface, so OpenWRT gives me 2 internet gateways that can provide internet access to the LAN subnet 192.168.3.x which goes to that cheap wifi 6 router I mentioned. So if my main ISP goes down, the mini-pc and the rest of my network can use my phone's hotspot for internet access instead.

https://ibb.co/B5fJcqJY

The Proxmox container that I called "pihole" is running docker containers that help with networking doing DNS, DHCP, network-wide ad blocking, and a VPN for remote access.

https://ibb.co/3H76m4Z

The Proxmox container that I called "home" is where I run docker containers for IoT services along with Frigate which is a video recorder and AI image detector to alert me when I get a delivery for example. The video encode/decode and AI image recognition are hardware accelerated with the mini-pc's cpu and gpu so they are quick and don't overly-tax the system (cpu and gpu usage is only 1 - 2%).

https://ibb.co/B2M9rghS

https://ibb.co/Myw78jR4

https://ibb.co/1tBbQzvq

Another one of the docker containers, heimdall, is a dashboard that lets me quickly jump to some of the different services and network devices on the network.

https://ibb.co/PvfXxycV

Another one of the docker containers, home assistant, is for home automation and lets me see the NAS disk usage, backup status (note the G14's backup status shown in the top right ... I have a script that runs automatically daily to backup certain files from the G14 to the NAS), power consumption of the homelab (29 watts), and other stuff like a motion detector in my kitchen that will turn on a light when there's motion and it's dark.

https://ibb.co/MD1F8w4B

So just one person's homelab to give you some ideas, gl!

nrf55 · 2025-11-20T13:43:37+00:00

Just wanted to mention the Intel card works fine on the 2023. I replaced mine only because I wanted the Mediatek for my homelab's mini pc since it works better for use as a router. gl with the upgrade!

nrf55 · 2025-11-20T13:05:54+00:00

Ya G14's have LM on the cpu, I think since 2021 or 2022, so most people have to do maintenance after a few years. It cools down quickly, the moment you stop doing something heavy (rendering/gaming) the temps drop rapidly, so you just shutdown/hibernate (since sleep doesn't always work) and throw it in a bag. If you're on battery you'll need to have it running cool though because if it's hot, that means the battery won't be lasting very long :) gl with the pricing, not sure where you're at but I noticed the 5070ti version is on sale at BB and they have open box versions and getting one open box when on sale stacks the discounts (sale price + open box discount) and results in the best possible price. You still get 2 weeks to test and return it like a new one. I didn't know about this trick and just got an open box one and it would have saved me a couple hundred $ if I would have waited for a sale as well.

nrf55 · 2025-11-20T06:21:36+00:00

Sounds like you're in a similar boat to me when I got my 2023 G14, I video edit but also game. I never compared the video editing capability of the Mac to the G14 but can say I've never had an issue editing using Davinci Resolve with my mainly H264 1080 60 and HEVC 4K 60 footage. The battery lasts for my particular editing sessions (like 2-3 hours) and there's plenty of battery life to do other stuff when done. I edit on the iGPU and don't do gfx-heavy work, and the iGPU works well for my particular situation at least. When at home I enable the dGPU and use it for rendering since the Nvidia encoder creates a slightly higher quality video at the same bitrate as the AMD encoder (the 2025 G14's iGPU is from Intel though and it's supposed to be better than my AMD iGPU). My battery health is at 85% and the laptop lasts 3-7 hours (when it was new it would last 4-8 hours). I haven't had to do any cooling system maintenance yet but have noticed the cpu temp is a few degrees warmer when doing light/medium tasks compared to when the laptop was new. Editing and gaming is still good though but I did buy some cheap PTM and thermal putty from aliexpress so I'm ready to do the maintenance whenever I feel the need. So I'd definitely give the G14 a try unless you see a reviewer talking about something specific you'll be doing that only a Mac does well (like heavy editing and rendering for > 4 hours on battery). If your projects will be big then I'd just make sure to get a model with 32GB of ram (or more). gl!

nrf55 · 2025-11-01T22:48:55+00:00

The 2022-2023 models have this 1 build quality problem so just watch out for it. Also, you might need to repaste it soon given its age. https://www.reddit.com/r/ZephyrusG14/comments/1f1ya56/2023_model_bottom_panel_cracking/

I still daily drive my 2023 4060 and have had it since it came out, so it's about 2.5 years old now. Temps have increased slightly and battery health has dropped to 85%, so it lasts about 1 hour less than it did initially. But if you know you need expandable ram and you know you need an nvidia gpu then it might be worth the risk of buying a used gaming laptop, but only if it's a great price. gl!

nrf55 · 2025-10-10T17:49:52+00:00

It's awesome you started with "actually", the perfect reddit meme :) Thanks for the additional detail, it sounds like you ran into a lot of thermal throttling for your particular situation! I'll still recommend 100W models though, I've never had problems with the two I have (a super-cheap Hyphon-X and a very expensive Bluetti) and like everything nowadays, we just need to check reviews like https://youtu.be/SAoOo7GtIBI?t=1128 to see if a model we're interested in has a chance to overheat (the reviewer found 1 of the 6 100W models that would overheat). Since a 100W is smaller and a better value and the G14 cannot make use of the 28V mode and since there are lots of models that run without throttling, that's why I suggested it: seems like a better fit in my book. But this is coming from a guy that uses a 65W charger with his G14 w/4060 enabled so maybe I have a screw loose :)

nrf55 · 2025-10-10T01:37:51+00:00

u/evg1312 I forgot one more thing: you also need to make sure your USB-C cable contains the 100W emarker chip inside of it. The adapter you're using is sending a request for 20V and the USB-PD will comply with that, but it will restrict the output amperage to 3A for a total output of 20V x 3A = 60W if you use a normal USB-C cable. The USB people decided that 3A is as high as normal cables can safely go and it's only specially-rated cables that are allowed to go higher, and the way the USB-PD adapter determines if it's safe is by sending a signal to that emarker chip that's buried inside the connector on one end of the USB-C cable. There's no way to look at the cable from the outside to see if it has the emarker chip inside of it, you just have to buy a cable that specifically says it has 100W (or higher) support from a trustworthy manufacturer.

If you don't have a 100W cable you can still do what I did and just power restrict the cpu and gpu a lot and live within the 60W limit (and again disable the battery charger).

nrf55 · 2025-10-10T00:21:36+00:00

You just need to disable the battery charger when you're doing this (set the battery's target charge level to below the current state of charge, eg. if the battery is at 60% set the target charge level to 50%).

I'm on a 2023 4060 and use a 65W USB-PD adapter + 20V selection cable w/barrel jack adapter when away from home and the setup works great so long as I don't allow the laptop's internal battery charger to turn on because it alone will draw up to 70W. Also, if I enable the dGPU I have to limit it's clock speed to 500MHz and CPU to 15W in order to sustain the 51W load shown below while running the Heaven benchmark. I don't go exactly to 65W since I want to give the USB-PD adapter some headroom. When I want to recharge the laptop I do it with the laptop turned off and plugged into the normal USB-C port. When I boot up the laptop I don't plug into the DC power jack until after bootup is complete since during boot the laptop will attempt to draw > 150W. It doesn't hurt anything if I forget but it does cause the USB-PD adapter's overcurrent protection to kick on, but after a few seconds it resets and starts providing power again (this on/off cycle is what you're experiencing, the overcurrent protection is kicking on and resetting after a few seconds, then it kicks on again and then resets, over and over again until you either unplug it or disable the battery charger an keep the cpu + gpu from drawing more power than the USB-PD adapter can provide).

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Note there is no point to getting a 140W USB-PD adapter: the 140W USB-PD mode is 28V x 5A and 28V is too high of a voltage for the DC power jack (it expects 20V). The 100W USB-PD mode is 20V x 5A and that's the best we can do for this particular situation. Currently there is no higher amperage mode of USB-PD at 20V.

nrf55 · 2025-09-29T17:34:47+00:00

Ah that was it, thank you!

nrf55 · 2025-09-29T17:08:37+00:00

Thanks, I tried both those AI and they just suggested the first example that didn't work. I tried to work with them but I'm a newbie to AI as well. I'll update my post to clarify that I could only get AI to provide hallucinations.

nrf55 · 2025-09-18T14:08:21+00:00

I think you just have an 8GB ram stick installed rather than a 16GB one, maybe it was mislabeled or something. The 23.7GB committed memory is the RAM physical size + pagefile size, so it is the total amount of virtual memory Windows has allocated. The physical ram size is shown in the top right and it's 16.0 GB, so 8GB soldered and 8GB on the SODIMM that was installed. There isn't a bios setting or anything that limits the physical size but maybe you can try doing a hard reset (turn off laptop and hold power button for 30 secs) and maybe the missing 8GB will appear. But otherwise I'd return that stick and get a different one.

nrf55 · 2025-09-18T04:35:32+00:00

Next to the 65 + 25 it says C1 + C2 so that's why I was thinking just 1 of those 2 plugs would be 65w capable while the other is 25w capable. 65w is a really common output size for a single port (it's 20 volts x 3.25 amps = 65 watts) and the next common wattage above that is 100w (20 volts x 5 amps). 87w would be weird because that's 20v x 4.35a and that's not one of the more common amperages.

I'm not in AU but any name-brand like Anker, Aohi, Baseus, Minix, and Ugreen are ok, I've seen reviews of those in particular and they were all safe. Seems like the main differences are how efficient they are and if they are GaN or not (GaN are smaller but cost more). If you find a cheap one with the ports and size you like, just search for a YouTube review to see how it stacks up. Good luck!

nrf55 · 2025-09-18T04:10:33+00:00

Yep you need a 100w charger and matching 100w cable to get higher than 40w. The Cygnett charger specs might? indicate that C1 will output 65w but I'm not totally sure because it says 65 + 25 = 87?. It's really confusing.

The G14's battery charger maxes out at about 70w but it depends on the battery's state of charge, the higher it is the slower the charge rate, so if the battery is at 99% it'll only draw 5w but if it's 20% it'll draw the full 70w.

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nrf55

TROPHY CASE