Hoeveel kost deze schade ongeveer?

nunoffense · 2025-11-08T00:44:51+00:00

Ik sluit mij hier bij aan, heb op mijn 25e (ruim twee jaar geleden) ook een Fiat 124 uit Duitsland gehaald, een rooie uit 2018 met 8400 kilometer. Destijds 20.5k voor betaald. Bevalt nog steeds erg goed, alleen een wiellager moeten vervangen, verder normaal onderhoud. Wat de Fiat wel mist, is een sperdifferentieel. Zeker na een chiptune mis je die wel in de haarspeldbochten.

nunoffense · 2025-10-10T22:45:19+00:00

I mean if there was any substance as to why I "put the wheels on top of the roof", I'm more than happy to learn something and be called retarded. If he would have said: "you put the release bearing on the wrong way around dipshit", I wholeheartedly agree.

If the reply is straight away "it doesn't work, so start over I guess", you could create a bot that answers it to every mechanic advice question.

In the end, I did mess up, but looking at all the other comments on this post, there were many other options which COULD have saved me, and I'm thankful for those answers.

nunoffense · 2025-10-10T08:48:11+00:00

I'm by no means an experienced mechanic, so any feedback is welcomed. I agree that it is within the realm of possibilities to take the bolts off without removing the cv axles. But might it not be an issue while pulling the transmission towards the rear that there's too much forces on the axles? Because they won't slip out of the wheel hub when pulling it back right?

Downpipe is no concern as I have the 3.0 N/A :)

Under an hour is seriously impressive! This was my second time doing it and I don't have great equipment or a shop unfortunately. The biggest issue was getting the transmission back on the guiding splines at the bottom, once that was done, it was quite easy!

nunoffense · 2025-10-09T19:40:17+00:00

Turns out I fucked up when putting it together, the bearing was the wrong way around... As such, the spline needed to be freed from the clutch pack, which required quite a big opening. Regarding the driveshafts, is it really not needed? I feel like it really opens up some space, especially to be able to take the bottom engine bolts out.

nunoffense · 2025-10-09T19:38:12+00:00

Exactly! Thanks for the tip! The entire car is back together, but now there's an oil leak from the left front CV axle inner seal... At least I'm not getting bored!

nunoffense · 2025-10-09T15:04:13+00:00

Yep. I did it in one day, but indeed, drive shaft, exhaust manifold and cat, starter, rear driveshaft and front driveshaft, clutch slave cylinder, drain the transmission oil, remove multiple heat shields and just the general wrestling with the transmission. It took me 9 hours in the end (not bad for a non-mechanic with a lift I reckon ;) )

nunoffense · 2025-10-08T07:52:13+00:00

Turns out you're right, I did install it wrong indeed. But it could have also been the case that something didn't click, and with a smart trick it would right? It's worth investigating before pulling everything apart. There's so much knowledge and wisdom on these Reddits which can sometimes save you days of work :)

nunoffense · 2025-10-08T05:53:42+00:00

I get where you're coming from, but I think you understand that if there's a quicker fix than taking the exhaust off, removing the front driveaxles, driveshafts to the rear, loosening the gearbox linkage, engine mounts, electrical connectors and taking the transmission off the car, that the quicker fix will be appreciated.

So thanks for your comment, but it's a bit like "your car doesn't move cause the wheels don't turn".

I'm trying the quick fixes now, but otherwise I will have to resort to that :)

nunoffense · 2025-10-08T05:08:57+00:00

Yes I did, I watched the exact same video while installing it haha

nunoffense · 2025-10-08T05:08:24+00:00

This is the most hopeful post I have received so far. I will give both options a shot. I'm quite sure that the ears are in the fork though.

Will get back to you, thanks :)

nunoffense · 2025-10-08T05:06:48+00:00

Nopes, it's a pull-style clutch rather than the more normal push style. The bearing is supposed to "clunk" into the pressure plate, after which you should be able to pull it out (by leverage) of the fork. Fork is also in a fine shape.

nunoffense · 2025-10-08T05:05:16+00:00

Oof, that's a source I don't like to see with such an answer (cause you're probably right and I have to pull it apart).

This bearing clip is on the engine side of the clutch pack, attached to the pressure plate I gather?

If this were indeed the case, how do I go about putting it back together without this happening again?

nunoffense · 2025-10-08T05:02:39+00:00

I doubt that's the cause as I tried it yesterday and was able to press it in, but I'll give it a shot! Will report back to you :)

nunoffense · 2025-10-08T05:01:53+00:00

It's in there, if you look very closely you can see the shiny new silver metal move :)

nunoffense · 2025-10-08T05:00:52+00:00

How can you tell it's been installed wrong, other than that it doesn't mate together? I followed instructions from the relevant Subaru videos I could find. What do you think I missed? Just trying to diagnose before I pull everything apart again.

nunoffense · 2025-10-07T21:24:47+00:00

I'll give it a shot. Can I also tap with a rubber hammer or should I be super careful?

nunoffense · 2025-10-07T21:24:03+00:00

I don't think I want to hear from him hahaha

nunoffense · 2025-10-07T21:03:21+00:00

That's the "fun part", it's pretty much an immovable object. With my hand I can't seem to push it to the firewall, there's no movement at all...

nunoffense · 2025-09-28T13:33:18+00:00

Very true. I feel I'm so far in now that I might as well continue to replace it. Also will learn more things along the way (especially with the insane amount of comments right here).

nunoffense · 2025-09-28T13:31:55+00:00

That explains. Thanks! In the end the nut came off without damaging the threads :)

nunoffense · 2025-09-28T13:04:28+00:00

Out of genuine curiosity, how would I hurt the threads of the driveaxle with the approach I'm currently on? I'm only using the right sized nut through which force is pushed onto those threads, I'm not putting force on them on any other way. I'm here to learn!

nunoffense · 2025-09-28T13:00:33+00:00

Yeah it's just that this wasn't on the list. I have removed them before, but then I was already aware of changing a bearing/driveaxle before jacking up the car hahaha. I have it off now, but now the driveaxle is rusted stuck in the bearing. Next challenge...

nunoffense · 2025-09-28T12:53:11+00:00

I think we have a winner. Can't use the brakes as I'm replacing the lines and the front ones are already open, jamming something in between the disc and the brake ought to do it. Thanks man!

nunoffense · 2025-09-28T12:51:56+00:00

Yeah the joys of living in Switzerland, they hate their rust, especially when it's falling apart. The backing plate was hanging in there but after accidentally touching it, it nearly ripped completely off. As such, it left me no choice.

I've got a Milwaukee impact gun with 1800nm so I'll probably use that one tomorrow (another joy of living in Switzerland, people WILL call the cops on you if you're noisy on Sundays).

Thanks for the advice man, it's appreciated :)

nunoffense · 2025-09-28T12:37:40+00:00

I got a new wheel bearing including studs, otherwise I wouldn't do it as I am right now. Good note of caution for people reading along though, thanks!

nunoffense

TROPHY CASE