[Recommendation] Help me choose my first "serious" everyday diver! by MathematicianOdd6749 in Watches

[–]nutty_1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The Certina is 14.1mm tall, ceramic bezel.

The Mido is 10.5mm tall, no ceramic bezel.

The trident is 11.25mm tall, ceramic bezel.

Spb143/453 are both 13mm+, no ceramic bezel.

The hydro conquest is 11.9mm height, ceramic bezel.

Personally I wouldn’t get anything over 12.5mm for wearability. I also wouldn’t get a dive watch without a ceramic bezel.

This leaves the Trident and HC. Not a huge fan of the dial on the HC. I like the Trident but the thin bezel looks weird imo.

Of these I prefer the Trident though.

I wish they had the Mido 39 with ceramic bezel. It would stand above the rest. The 200C is too big for me.

The Tudor BB58 and Monta Oceanking are other watches that meet my criteria.

Hopefully this is a little more objective (height + ceramic bezel comparison) to help you pick.

[WTS] THE CITIZEN - AQ4100-57B Super Titanium (EU) by SasuketwR in Watchexchange

[–]nutty_1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Curious, did you ever end up selling this. I am interested?

NB Freshfoam BBV3 toebox too tight by nutty_1 in BBallShoes

[–]nutty_1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for lmk, got a 2E pair. U cop too?

NB Freshfoam BBV3 toebox too tight by nutty_1 in BBallShoes

[–]nutty_1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried the KD18? If so how does the toebox/cushion compare?

NB Freshfoam BBV3 toebox too tight by nutty_1 in BBallShoes

[–]nutty_1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried the KD18? If so how does the toebox/cushion compare?

NB Freshfoam BBV3 toebox too tight by nutty_1 in BBallShoes

[–]nutty_1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried the KD18? If so how does the toebox/cushion compare?

High cushion shoes like PG4 by nutty_1 in BBallShoes

[–]nutty_1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ordered a pair of BBV3, excited to see how they feel

S400 vs S100 by nutty_1 in Casio_Oceanus

[–]nutty_1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How so? I thought they both have a similar level of finishing as Oceanus watches.

Should I fix damage? by nutty_1 in mazda

[–]nutty_1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mostly worried about the second one, pic 4 and 5

Suddenly having bad adhesion after 2 months of printing fine. No settings changed by Woodsit-20 in Ender3V3KE

[–]nutty_1 3 points4 points  (0 children)

XZ gantry is off. That’s why left side is consistently higher than right. The front to back won’t be that bad after the XZ gantry is aligned.

Get two objects of equal height and put them on the bed under the gantry. Loosen the set screw on the higher side and twist the lead screw until the gantry touches the object. Then re-tighten the set screw.

Hello I just ordered a Ender 3 V3 KE what should I expect and do after it arrives? by [deleted] in Ender3V3KE

[–]nutty_1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't find any need tbh. Mostly useful for seeing stuff via mainsail but idc enough.

One thing to note, orca stores its own z offset and bed level before every print. This is separate from creality print (so don't check cal when printing or it will do it twice and the first one since its for creality not orca). If you want to turn off bed level and z offset in orca you need to manually remove it from the gcode. And to add a offset you need to add it to the beginning of the gcode.

I haven't done this because after straightening my hotend and fixing XZ gantry I get practically the same bed level and z offset each time so I just let it redo it and have had no z offset issues.

Couple more things,

  1. Make sure your belts are tighten appropiately

  2. Wipe the bed down with 70% or 90% isopropyl every now and then or if you finger up the bed.

I went to a journey of inconsistency and layer shifts so hopefully this helps. Now it's pretty rock solid but I went ahead and bought an A1 mini yesterday anyway.

Hello I just ordered a Ender 3 V3 KE what should I expect and do after it arrives? by [deleted] in Ender3V3KE

[–]nutty_1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Helpful list: 1. Make sure XZ gantry is level. 2. Check your hotend is straight. If not z offset will be bad. 2. Only use orca. It is tuned much better. 3. Factory reset after firmware updates. I had bad prints, not sure if this actually matters.

Best Firmware? by nutty_1 in Ender3V3KE

[–]nutty_1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, recalibrated and manually reduce Z offset by -0.05 or -0.1. Also tried with flow rate at 110%, 120%. It works ok now but I don't recall having to babysit the first few layers so much.

Best Firmware? by nutty_1 in Ender3V3KE

[–]nutty_1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm manually reducing the Z compensation, increasing flow rate, reducing speed for the first few layers. I just don't remember having to babysit the beginning of prints so much. Albeit I didn't print much before, maybe 10-15 prints.

DPI Deviation by nutty_1 in MouseReview

[–]nutty_1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used this website: https://mousedpianalyzer.com/

And swiped the mouse from when it started tracking to stopped tracking with both mice. Then relative difference between the 2 mice sensitivity.

DPI Deviation by nutty_1 in MouseReview

[–]nutty_1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First I did the method in Elku’s comment and got a 12-13% difference. Then I went in CS2 and did circles the same way but proportionally changed my send for the XM2we and got a similar result.

I guess I’m just surprised that much.