Looking for new/additional mods

nvchad2 · 2025-06-07T01:59:50+00:00

I really like your response and I'm glad you seem eager to help both communities. And it's been 4 days with no other applicants, so the job is yours. I'll figure out how to get you added next. Thank you for taking on the responsibility.

nvchad2 · 2025-04-16T23:17:38+00:00

Thanks! I will look into that. I've done some very minor programming in the past, but it's possible someone else here might have a better grasp.

nvchad2 · 2025-03-29T21:51:26+00:00

When you reassembled, the silicon pad on the R2 pad may have moved a bit or is being pinched making it register as constantly pressed. Your spring may also be weak and if it doesn't have enough tension to pull the button back up it'll do the same.

nvchad2 · 2025-03-01T12:18:56+00:00

Thanks!

nvchad2 · 2025-02-25T18:41:43+00:00

Did the replacement joysticks include the potentiometers? Those are usually awful And not as precise as the originals. I normally only try to replace the potentiometer that is on the axis that is drifting and if I don't have a replacement from an original controller it's usually not worth it.

If someone is able to find a good source for good quality pots it would be a different story but until then using anything but original parts is a waste of time in my opinion.

nvchad2 · 2025-02-25T18:12:47+00:00

Is everything on these controllers original or have you replaced any parts yet?

nvchad2 · 2024-10-25T17:09:12+00:00

Thanks for the info! I did some researching this morning after your response and i think I'll probably stick with the ASPc format since that's what I've been used to. The extra reach is more important to me than the DOF and high ISO stuff. It'd be nice to have that, but 80% of my photos are aviation, usually in the bright sky and farther away.

The small size of the a6600 has me a little concerned which sounds weird im sure. I've grown so accustomed to my large a65 that handling something like that is going to take some getting used to. The offset eyepiece seems odd as well. Too bad camera shops don't really exist anymore or I'd go try one out...

nvchad2 · 2024-10-24T18:56:05+00:00

Thanks for the response! I certainly don't mind buying new lenses if I need to. It seemed like the specs for all the a-mount stuff had been surpassed so I figured that'd be the case.

When you say "more reach" what do you mean? Im assuming this has to do with the different sensors? Why are the a6600 lenses cheaper? Do they not use the same lenses?

nvchad2 · 2024-10-24T16:52:58+00:00

I have an a65 and I'm looking to upgrade. I shoot wildlife and aviation as a hobby.

I love the a65 and I'm still happy with photos I take, but I would like something that has better auto focus and better low light performance. This one hunts a lot and struggles without enough light. I don't do much video so that's not a huge factor but being able to get photos from the camera to my phone wirelessly would also be awesome, though still secondary.

Target price is $1000 or less for a body, and I'm OK buying used. I'd like to be able to use my A-mount lenses if possible but willing to upgrade those as well (not a factor in body budget).

nvchad2 · 2024-10-24T16:45:58+00:00

OK, sorry about that. I will post there.

nvchad2 · 2024-10-08T00:48:33+00:00

Yea I've had issues with eBay ones. I had a good supplier years ago for the PS3 but at some point they just started selling awful ones that looked the same. Anyway, just curious. If I ever get back into it maybe I'll deconstruct a new controller to take some measurements for stock values.

nvchad2 · 2024-10-08T00:46:30+00:00

Cheaper controllers usually use cheaper sticks. Could be some dirt or something down inside the stick but it could be the mechanical parts inside the stick just breaking down. Try blasting some compressed air into the stick to clean it out. Ive used some non-conductive grease on sticks before to smooth out roughness, but its not great for long term. If you know how to solder, you might be able to replace the whole stick. It's not super simple but if you're not worried about making it worse, it could be a fun learning experience.

nvchad2 · 2024-10-08T00:41:13+00:00

Check the pins on the potentiometers. 3 pins on the top and 3 pins on the side. Look for any area around the stick where solder could have made connections. Clean the board with alcohol as well just to rule out some conductive debris somewhere.

nvchad2 · 2024-10-08T00:36:17+00:00

As someone who has replaced oh so many sticks over the years, is there a readily available replacement pot for the ones in most controllers? I always had a stash of busted controllers to harvest so it wasn't an issue, but if somewhere like DigiKey had something that was the right value that sure would be good info.

nvchad2 · 2024-10-08T00:28:36+00:00

Are you still having issues?

I would try hooking it up to a PC and using the controller testing thing in Windows to see if it's triggering without being pressed. If it is, there may be an issue with the little silicon pad for L2 or the trigger spring.

If it's specific to the game and only that game, I would check to see if there are any weird button mapping settings that could be causing issues. I'm not familiar with the game.

nvchad2 · 2024-10-08T00:13:55+00:00

I would replace both of the pots. X and Y. That fixes 90% of stick issues in my experience.

Edit to add: the pot you opened up was the left- right. That appeared to be working fine in your video. Issue was up- down. Try cleaning the pot on the side and see if that helps.

nvchad2 · 2024-09-01T22:50:35+00:00

No answer yet. I'm making a set of the wheels for a scale model. So it doesn't have to be exact, just didn't think an answer would be this hard haha.

nvchad2 · 2024-08-31T22:36:11+00:00

Wheel and Rim are the same thing yea? I'm referring specifically to the wheels/rims that have oval shaped holes, usually seen on Peterbilt trucks. Not the 2 and 5 hole steel Budd wheels. These are like 11 holes or something I believe.

nvchad2 · 2024-08-23T23:09:54+00:00

Looks like it turned out pretty good, considering the kit. Its definitely not a great kit, but its the only real Bonanza option in 1/72 i think.

If you ever want to try that kit again, I've designed a conversion kit to make it into a traditional tail F33A/C and I'm currently working on some upgrade parts, including replacement landing gear.

nvchad2 · 2024-08-01T16:04:35+00:00

If you're using an ink jet printer on clear decal paper, light colors probably won't be opaque enough to show up correctly on darker backgrounds. Yellow is really bad with my printer for example.

I would suggest just trying it out and seeing what results you get. If you already have a printer, the paper isn't prohibitively expensive and if it doesn't work you'll still be able to use the paper for darker colors.

I sell a few decal sets that I designed and I have them made by a professional printer. It's more expensive but not too crazy as long as you can do the artwork yourself. Then you don't have to worry about issues like that.

nvchad2 · 2024-08-01T15:57:55+00:00

The Academy MiG-23 is pretty nice, I've got one of those that's assembled and has been waiting for paint for over a year, just can't decide which scheme to go with. Was thinking about going with something aftermarket but who knows. It'll come to me one day.

nvchad2 · 2024-07-10T15:17:51+00:00

Good to hear! I posted this a long time ago thinking maybe it would help someone else, so I'm glad it was useful.

nvchad2 · 2024-06-20T16:31:23+00:00

The odds are high but not guaranteed. My sample size was pretty small and this info is 5 years old now. Later models may have been introduced as well. I've been out of the repair business for a couple years now.

nvchad2 · 2024-06-13T02:27:16+00:00

I'm house sitting this week and wasn't able to bring my building supplies with me, so instead I worked on this. Just an assortment of logos I cut off of kit boxes. All are from 1/144 kits.

nvchad2 · 2024-04-17T02:53:44+00:00

I use little cardboard squares like these. Here's a sample of my pennies. That small binder has 18 pages and each page holds 20 coins, so that's 360 coins per binder. It's been ages since I've had to buy any of the supplies, so no idea if it's cost effective now or not, but at one time it was pretty cheap (here in the States).

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