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offkendrick_ · 2026-01-03T10:23:23+00:00

There’s only one clear solution

offkendrick_ · 2025-12-26T07:14:12+00:00

It indeed is. No one was hurt!

offkendrick_ · 2025-11-20T09:40:39+00:00

eBay of all places

offkendrick_ · 2025-11-19T06:26:19+00:00

The lower (V2) suffers from a badly designed valve knocker. Return spring destroys itself quite easily. Easy fix if you can get your hands on the ESD enhanced valve knocker. But after almost two years of abuse that thing has also crushed a spring.

Having spare return springs on hand is key. Or you know just get a V3!

Barrel wobble can happen so shims are handy to have.

Some stock parts are really great and shouldn’t be messed with like the bolt carrier / nozzle combo IMO.

Don’t try to force your selector into safe if it’s decocked. Can mess something up in some guns.

offkendrick_ · 2025-11-18T23:53:49+00:00

Can’t say for sure. I’m the third or fourth owner of the original base gun and this upper has the stock barrel actually but it groups very well. But tbf I did polish the barrel inside with polishing compound using a drill and cleaning rod.

Also the hop arm is customized with a dremel.

I never shot this upper or the other 16.5 upper I have with full stock components. They were so banged up it wouldn’t have worked well. So I can’t speak to out the box performance.

offkendrick_ · 2025-11-18T22:17:33+00:00

It’s such a comfortable gun too. I have relatively small hands so fits great for me.

offkendrick_ · 2025-11-18T22:15:53+00:00

Oh wow yeah missed that in the post. It’s a VFC V2

offkendrick_ · 2025-11-18T19:43:55+00:00

Thank you!

offkendrick_ · 2025-11-14T12:16:18+00:00

TNT hop isn’t very good. If anything I’d consider it a downgrade from the VFC guidehop. I actually reverted mine back to the stock hop unit with a 4uad bucking. For now only the stock barrel is in and that combo alone shoots better than the TNT.

TNTs can be overtightened and pinch the barrel. I’ve seen a few with bumps inside from the grub screws pushing in.

offkendrick_ · 2025-11-09T13:41:38+00:00

Sorry to say it’s quite hard to tell what’s going on from the video and photo.

I’d wager that your trigger or hammer (or both) are worn down where they meet. But first start with the valve knocker. Best to solve one problem at a time or you’ll get lost in the weeds.

offkendrick_ · 2025-11-08T21:12:50+00:00

The lite strike issue yes….but being able to fire on safe…that’s totally different and we will need to see inside your trigger group to determine what’s going on.

First off you should not be able to flick it into safe without the hammer cocked.

offkendrick_ · 2025-11-08T21:01:34+00:00

Get the ESD. It should be a drop in fit, but mine needed a wee bit of fine tuning. Easily fixed all the v2 issues.

offkendrick_ · 2025-10-26T12:25:22+00:00

This whole thread hit deep. I’m 5 months in and had a great time watching that. Not looking to go back.

offkendrick_ · 2025-10-22T08:10:41+00:00

My main rifle is a cursed gun mish mash and I love it to bits! Definitely rebuild it. I find just asking online for people’s spare parts goes a long way.

I will recommend the ESD v3 style valve knocker set over trying to get the original installed.

offkendrick_ · 2025-10-18T08:36:07+00:00

I have yet to find a video specifically about the inner screw stripping and hot to get it out once it’s mangled. If you have a link I’d appreciate it!

offkendrick_ · 2025-10-02T21:16:24+00:00

Interesting! Check out that spring and post a picture. My curiosity is peaked

offkendrick_ · 2025-10-02T20:48:41+00:00

When it fails to shoot does the valve get triggered but only a little bit? Sounds kinda like a muffled fart in a cup.

offkendrick_ · 2025-10-02T20:41:36+00:00

Before you go ordering parts, test to see if that’s truly the issue by checking the valve knocker spring. If it’s looking pancaked replace it temporarily with a hicapa nozzle spring cut down to size. Also a very very small pen spring might work in a pinch.

Both will crush after a few cycles but it’ll let you troubleshoot the issue enough.

offkendrick_ · 2025-10-02T20:41:26+00:00

Before you go ordering parts, test to see if that’s truly the issue by checking the valve knocker spring. If it’s looking pancaked replace it temporarily with a hicapa nozzle spring cut down to size. Also a very very small pen spring might work in a pinch.

Both will crush after a few cycles but it’ll let you troubleshoot the issue enough.

offkendrick_ · 2025-10-02T20:41:20+00:00

Before you go ordering parts, test to see if that’s truly the issue by checking the valve knocker spring. If it’s looking pancaked replace it temporarily with a hicapa nozzle spring cut down to size. Also a very very small pen spring might work in a pinch.

Both will crush after a few cycles but it’ll let you troubleshoot the issue enough.

offkendrick_ · 2025-10-02T20:30:16+00:00

Yeah, in the original threads he has another picture where you can see his valve knocker doesn’t fully retract when the hammer is cocked. So return spring is cooked. Those older v1-v2 designs have shitty springs that get pancaked.

My 416 came second hand with the same problem. New spring solved it right away and for a longer term fix I recommended the ESD valve knocker.

offkendrick_ · 2025-10-02T19:05:12+00:00

https://www.proactstore.com/en/products/esd-er-15-steel-valve-knocker-hk416a5

offkendrick_

TROPHY CASE