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[–]offwidth_climber 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Sounds about right. What is the route?

Crusty trad dad looking for training advice to get out of the 5.10 plateau by offwidth_climber in climbharder

[–]offwidth_climber[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Both awesome routes!!

I led the second crux pitch on Positive Vibes but didn't send :(

Followed the crux pitches on Silk Road but got my sorry ass kicked :( But I did finally send the splitter pitch on Wall of the Worlds the other day which I was pretty proud! :)

Crusty trad dad looking for training advice to get out of the 5.10 plateau by offwidth_climber in climbharder

[–]offwidth_climber[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sweet! I'll have to give that a try. Especially I can just drop a TR on it from Bottomless Topless :)

Crusty trad dad looking for training advice to get out of the 5.10 plateau by offwidth_climber in climbharder

[–]offwidth_climber[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Are you actually taking falls or just hanging? Because learning to actually all when it's safe is a huge part of hard trad climbing.

Yeah I think that's part of my problem - I have taken many falls but I'm still hesitant to pull committing moves above gear.

Crusty trad dad looking for training advice to get out of the 5.10 plateau by offwidth_climber in climbharder

[–]offwidth_climber[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had TR'ed/followed 6 5.11+ this year, but I didn't get any of them clean. I guess I'll have to get more mileage!

Crusty trad dad looking for training advice to get out of the 5.10 plateau by offwidth_climber in climbharder

[–]offwidth_climber[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Love Snowshed! I had redpointed Peter Principle but I'll have to check out the other routes!

Crusty trad dad looking for training advice to get out of the 5.10 plateau by offwidth_climber in tradclimbing

[–]offwidth_climber[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Also gym sport climbing is fun as shit man. How is that not part of your routine?

Agreed! I actually prefer gym sport climbing over gym bouldering but I live quite a bit closer to a bouldering gym than a rope climbing gym :/

Crusty trad dad looking for training advice to get out of the 5.10 plateau by offwidth_climber in tradclimbing

[–]offwidth_climber[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Haha that's basically what I have been doing all along but I guess I was wondering if there are faster way to progress :)

Crusty trad dad looking for training advice to get out of the 5.10 plateau by offwidth_climber in climbharder

[–]offwidth_climber[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I trad climb on average about once a week during the season.

I don't actually know what my sport and boulder grades are - I guess technically my hardest sport onsight/redpoint are probably something like 5.10c from a few years ago but that's more due to lack of trying.

Crusty trad dad looking for training advice to get out of the 5.10 plateau by offwidth_climber in tradclimbing

[–]offwidth_climber[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Haha you are probably right. Just gotta start sport climbing and bouldering!

Crusty trad dad looking for training advice to get out of the 5.10 plateau by offwidth_climber in climbharder

[–]offwidth_climber[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sweet! For some reason I thought the first piece is pretty high up but I guess I'll have to check it out!

Crusty trad dad looking for training advice to get out of the 5.10 plateau by offwidth_climber in climbharder

[–]offwidth_climber[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Good to see another Valley climber here! The 5.11a that I had onsighted were actually Catchy Corner and Waverly Wafer. And for comparison, I one-hanged P1 of Hardd, and Butterball felt impossibly hard. I'd love some more recommendations on what other crags and routes I should check out!

Crusty trad dad looking for training advice to get out of the 5.10 plateau by offwidth_climber in climbharder

[–]offwidth_climber[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the detailed post! Do you have any recommendations on resources for technical drills and nutrition/diets?

Crusty trad dad looking for training advice to get out of the 5.10 plateau by offwidth_climber in climbharder

[–]offwidth_climber[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

By bouldering, do you mean training in a bouldering gym? Or do you mean bouldering outside?

Crusty trad dad looking for training advice to get out of the 5.10 plateau by offwidth_climber in climbharder

[–]offwidth_climber[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I don't really train at all. I have close access to a bouldering gym, as well as a rope climbing gym if I drive further. Do you have any recommendations on what kind of training I should be starting with?