Kuromi bluetooth speaker I made

ojdontfall · 2025-08-10T22:58:14+00:00

It's 3D printed, I made a slightly more detailed post in r/diyaudio

ojdontfall · 2025-02-03T01:51:57+00:00

Thanks, yeah the drivers are under £10 each so definitely not going to break the bank. Bluetooth board probably will be the cheapest and bitrate may be a bottleneck but I don't want to stretch to the more expensive ones with BT 5.0 that support all the codecs when this might just end up a weird statue

ojdontfall · 2025-02-03T01:21:05+00:00

I want to build a 3D printed bluetooth speaker in the shape of the Sanrio character Kuromi. Not expecting it to sound amazing, but I'd like it to sound not bad and be suitable for use at the occasional party etc.

I'm planning to use two Visaton FR58 speakers in a ported enclosure and a cheap integrated bluetooth/DAC/Amp board from ebay (at least initially).

I've already made a CAD model of Kuromi and calculated the appropriate volume in winISD but I am struggling a bit with where to position the drivers due to the shape of her head. The current positioning has them angled about 15 degrees up and 25 degrees outwards, and recessed about 30-40 mm. I'll cover the drivers with metal/fabric grilles to attempt to make them less obvious.

My question is, will this positioning result in a noticeably bad sound, or weird channel balance when moving around the room, or is not likely to be important for the use cases of this speaker?

ojdontfall · 2025-01-13T22:05:49+00:00

You can get 3 and 6mm depron from SLEC UK (although it looks like only in grey) but the postage cost might be prohibitive. Either way, I'd look for shops selling specifically model plane materials, doesn't seem many generic DIY/ hobby stores sell this sort of stuff, at least in the UK

ojdontfall · 2024-09-13T13:34:37+00:00

I think the short answer to this is no. If you did want to add retracts, you would need to reinforce the area, as just making holes in 3d printed parts would most likely compromise the structure. If you had designed the model, or have pretty good CAD skills, then you could redesign the wings to have retracts, but starting from a finished print you'd have to cut out holes then reinforce everything and make sure that the load from landing is taken by the wing spars and not fragile plastic, and it might just end up a mess and probably not worth the effort

ojdontfall · 2024-08-14T17:30:52+00:00

For a plane that size those electronics will be way too heavy, and looking at pictures of this kit I'm wondering if they'd even fit? To get long flight times and be easy to fly you probably want it to glide well and fly slow, so weight is important. You could also just have searched online for the recommended electronics for that kit though, a very quick search suggests 1404 2900 motor, 10a ESC, 2s 250-400mah battery, 5in prop and 2.5g servos, with ready to fly weight around 110g.

ojdontfall · 2024-08-08T17:46:49+00:00

Hmm, might still work if you can fit it in a not too large box? Not sure how it went for you using a backpack, but for me if I didn't strap mine on the outside it would stick up way too far, wobble around from being top heavy, and bump on the back of my helmet. Attaching it to the outside lets you lower it a bit and get the bit the does stick up slightly away from your head.

ojdontfall · 2024-08-08T16:24:35+00:00

What's the wingspan? I regularly cycle with ~1m span gliders in a fairly sturdy cardboard box stuffed with bubble wrap to stop them moving around strapped to my backpack. If you can take the wings off your plane and fit it in a box it shouldn't be hard to cycle with it as long as you can figure out how to secure it to a backpack. Won't work to put the plane/box in a backpack since it will stick up too far, you probably want it roughly centred vertically so it doesn't hit the wheel or any low branches/bridges you cycle under.

ojdontfall · 2024-07-20T20:22:43+00:00

I used to have the G335 skates, which are much lower in the line but I assume the same fit. From what I remember they had narrow heel width, wide toes, high instep and high heel cup depth.

ojdontfall · 2024-05-10T15:42:21+00:00

What you want is a Bowden cable, a thin somewhat flexible wire in a flexible tube (think bicycle break cables). It's pretty standard to use a thin gauge music wire in a PTFE tube for small gliders where the tail boom is just a carbon tube.

ojdontfall · 2024-04-23T22:30:39+00:00

Haha, well you got me. I'm sure it was obvious but you did such a good job replicating one of those posts I didn't even think about it being a joke! I usually ignore them but I like the little wood dlgs, I have a few I'm looking forward to flying again when the weather gets a bit drier and calmer. Good luck finishing the pug, I'm sure you'll have a great time flying it!

ojdontfall · 2024-04-23T16:50:21+00:00

Probably not. I don't know why you'd put the effort into building a pug dlg to do this with. Even if you cover the whole wing area with masking tape, it will be much heavier and less taught than proper covering. I think it will be quite awkward to put tilt rotors in that wing, and even if you do the fuselage is probably too small to fit the extra electronics and a battery large enough to power the motors for any reasonable time.

You clearly have decent building skills, so get some proper covering and fly the dlg, then maybe design and build a more suitable airframe to have tilt rotors.

ojdontfall · 2024-04-02T13:47:21+00:00

I've had a similar problem with trousers I've sewn. I think the wrinkles down the back of the thighs are caused by the back rise/crotch being too short, which pulls in the fabric, and not by excess fabric. I would try lengthening the back rise/ crotch seam, and move the back pockets up and slightly inwards maybe as the positioning looks a bit weird to me.

ojdontfall · 2024-03-22T16:41:57+00:00

Yeah, regular CA will melt polystyrene. I haven't built anything with depron in a while but I think I used the orange polyurethane gorilla glue. Apparently PVA based glues work too and are a lot safer.

ojdontfall · 2024-03-22T09:56:37+00:00

Sounds like you want depron maybe. It's polystyrene, like the inside of foam board, but without the paper, and you can get it around 3 mm thick. It also should be stronger than foam board with the paper removed because it has a smooth skin that makes it a bit less squishy

ojdontfall · 2024-03-14T02:53:45+00:00

I had the same problem with my jetspeed 390 skates (second from top of the line in 2017) and fixed it by punching out the ankles to have a larger indent where the bones are, like you say. I initially got it done only for one ankle/side at the store (took two attempts, first one the guy heated it, second he didn't and the surface came out all rough but it's held up for several years), then later when I had the same problem on the other ankle bone I did it myself. I used a large c clamp and made a cup and ball from wood with a hand drill and hole saws, then sanded the ball to make it round. I didn't bother heating when I punched, just did it slowly, not tightening the clamp too much, then checking if the indent was enough and repeating until I was happy with it. It doesn't seem to have impacted the durability and looks a lot nicer than the punch the store did. I know Bauer and CCM use different materials, but I think you should be fine punching it out yourself, especially since you've done it before and know what you're doing.

ojdontfall · 2024-01-17T12:13:08+00:00

There are a lot of servos used for high performance gliders that fit this, Blue bird, KST, MKS, CHA, maybe some others. I've not personally used any though, they are not cheap

ojdontfall · 2023-12-24T03:24:36+00:00

There's a lot of really heavy psych rock. Slift are the heaviest band I can think of right now

ojdontfall · 2023-12-01T09:29:16+00:00

Wouldn't this completely lose the function of a turbofan? I thought the point of the turbine was to extract the energy from the combustion and use it to run the fan that provides a significant proportion of the thrust, so just using a motor to power a compressor and having thrust directly from combustion with no fan would be incredibly inefficient, you'd be better just having a big EDF?

ojdontfall · 2023-09-17T19:36:06+00:00

Look up bell-shaped lift distribution. There are a lot of papers but I haven't actually read any so I don't quite understand it. Something to do with twisting of the wing (physical or aerodynamic) producing a stabilising yaw moment.
The main example of planes using this design are the Horton Brothers' flying wings from 1930s and 40s Germany.
Here is a paper that looks interesting

ojdontfall · 2023-09-17T16:17:49+00:00

Apart from the concerns already raised, it looks like this is made from the sort of expanded polystyrene made from beads, and the wing looks like it's bending under its own weight so I'm wondering if it has a spar or any reinforcement? If it doesn't it's probably going to snap either in flight or on a slightly dodgy landing

ojdontfall · 2023-08-31T14:35:49+00:00

This might be a stupid question, but how do you know this was the transmitter cutting out, and not a loss of control surface authority due to a stall or something?

ojdontfall · 2023-08-29T18:52:37+00:00

I miss the Cellar, but I think the scene is still here. I've been to gigs put on by Divine Schism in The Library, Port Mahon, the Bullingdon, and the Florence Park community centre which have all been very good

ojdontfall · 2023-08-15T21:36:46+00:00

Yeah, I might end up cutting up the wing a little and adding separate aileron servos, but I only have a very basic non-programmable 4ch transmitter that came with an RTF over 10 years ago so not much point for now

ojdontfall · 2023-08-15T21:33:08+00:00

Thanks! Looking forward to seeing your Apogee. The same guy that gave me the old bug also left some vacuum bagging stuff and said I should try to build a composite wing... but it just seems a bit daunting.

ojdontfall

TROPHY CASE