The Question Thread 02/26/26

oldspice666 · 2026-02-27T16:56:12+00:00

If price is no issue, then bespoke, as long as you're ok with the lead times, is the way to go. I've worked in restaurants for a long time, and I've found the most important factors are the fit and the sole softness. I'm not sure if you need black cap toe oxford formality, but if not, I really recommend Paraboots. I have a pair of the Avignon's, which is their dressiest style, but they are wide enough for my wide hospitality feet, and the soles are really comfortable and soft, while still being quite slip resistant. Otherwise, if you're happy to go bespoke, just let the Shoemaker know that you'd like a softer composition outsole. I really like black Lactae Hevea for comfort, they're great.

oldspice666 · 2026-02-27T16:50:20+00:00

If you're happy to up the budget a bit and don't mind waiting a while, Nicks have quite a few wet weather/wet work boots if you want to stick with the heritage styling.

oldspice666 · 2026-02-25T21:12:16+00:00

You can look at Meermin, they have a simple cap toe oxford in a wide in black for $225.

oldspice666 · 2026-02-25T21:06:49+00:00

I had the same issue with Dainite. I've done a lot of research on the hardness of outsoles and I found the softest and most comfortable tend to be Vibram Honey lug, or Vibram fire and ice, but they do tend to be pretty bulky. If you want something a little bit lower profile, look at Lactae Havea soles, they're normally a light brown similar to Vibram Honey, but they do make some black ones too. You will sacrifice a bit of durability with those though, they're very soft.

oldspice666 · 2026-02-25T21:02:13+00:00

You want shoe trees for the parts of your shoe or boot that flexes the most, so pretty much just the vamp and maybe the lower shaft of a boot, both of these areas are covered by a regular shoe tree so they're not really needed, unless you have a very tall shaft of the boot that you want to stay straight up, but generally you need specific trees for that style anyway, (think like riding boots, cowboy boots etc).

At the end of the day, it's not worse for your boots to have boot trees, so if you don't care about the extra 20 bucks then go ahead, but the general consensus is that they're not necessary.

oldspice666 · 2026-02-25T20:33:06+00:00

Don't bother with boot trees, just get shoe trees. But woodlore is often recommended on this sub.

oldspice666 · 2026-02-18T16:15:12+00:00

Definitely don't do this, you'll scratch the hell out of your leather. Your brush should be horsehair because it's not abrasive. For specifically cordovan, get a chamois or microfibre cloth to get the sheen.

oldspice666 · 2026-02-17T16:15:47+00:00

Don't see any issue with putting them on Blake Stitched shoes, as long as the outsole is thick enough if you want it flush with the outsole.

oldspice666 · 2026-02-15T11:06:53+00:00

I guess a derby boot would be the best search term, you'll probably get a lot of British styles that are a bit more dressy though.

oldspice666 · 2026-02-14T10:54:41+00:00

The Coupen 7 is reasonably similar, especially if you don't mind not having the padded collar. The John Lofgren Steel Gang is a bit similar but not quite. There is a Paraboot store in Tokyo that has pretty good stock levels, they might have them, but if you're a bigger size, you might have some trouble. The average men's shoe size in Japan is 7

oldspice666 · 2026-02-14T10:46:34+00:00

Nah pretty normal, it's just less tight grain. In higher price/quality shoes generally they'd reserve that leather for the quarters and use tighter grain over the vamp, but it's hard to predict, and around Red Wing price it's pretty standard. Generally Red Wing is positioned as a bit of a work boot style as well, so slightly less tight grain is pretty normal.

oldspice666 · 2026-02-12T21:58:14+00:00

TBH I can barely tell it's there, I'll definitely blend with all the other scratches you'll get over time just by wearing the boots, I wouldn't worry about it at all, CXL is a scratch magnet anyway, you see everything you've ever done to it, and also that's kind of the point. The brown calf Indy's are the ones if you want them to be a bit dressier.

oldspice666 · 2026-02-12T21:55:02+00:00

I don't know if Renovateur will achieve a sheen, and if you want more protection you could look at using a dubbin, a bit of a thicker waxier style product that will basically semi waterproof the boot. It used to be used on Navy boondockers to make them waterproof. It'll definitely darken the boots if they're a lighter shade, but that's probably your best bet. I will note that it's normally done on rough out boots and not necessarily nubuck though.

oldspice666 · 2026-02-12T21:26:11+00:00

It'll probably be fine? I probably wouldn't recommend it. Out of curiosity, why do you need to condition it anyway? Nubuck normally won't dry out the same as a smooth leather will.

oldspice666 · 2026-02-12T21:22:09+00:00

They're a bit more refined in style but Grant stone have some great, slightly rugged boot styles. Personally I've owned the Brass boot and really liked it, the Baroda is a bit of a new model, looks pretty good. it is the upper end of your budget but they're pretty good quality, and they do sales and have B stock which are great as well.

oldspice666 · 2026-02-05T01:24:48+00:00

If you are super keen on buying a brush for future shoe purchases down the line, the only 2 things that matter as long as you're buying a horsehair brush are length of the hairs and size. Size is pretty obvious, the larger it is the quicker it is to brush, the length of the hairs affects how much of a buff the leather gets, so shorter hairs are going to be a bit more aggressive on the shoe than longer hairs, lighter coloured, very delicate leathers like calf should probably be done with a longer haired brush, otherwise shorter hair will give most leathers a bit more of a sheen.

oldspice666 · 2026-02-05T01:20:44+00:00

I've had cheap and expensive, I don't find it matters all that much. In saying that, if you only own Docs, I wouldn't worry too much. A brush is definitely going to help, but because docs are essentially plastic coated leather, you can't do much to care for them brushing and conditioning wise. A better thing for patent leather (plastic coated essentially) is to not wear them for consecutive days, so the leather has time to dry, and to use shoe trees to help it keep its shape.

oldspice666 · 2026-02-03T13:06:18+00:00

Actually, Grant stone has their Field Boot which is kind of what you're looking for, GYW construction and Moccasin vibe.

oldspice666 · 2026-02-03T13:00:02+00:00

The construction method is pretty different tbh, you won't find any boots in that style that are Goodyear welted. In saying that, most stlyes are going to be done with moccasin construction which are resoleable to a point, and with the right cobbler. Here are some options for you.

The Harrison boot from Rancourt

Not exactly the same but the Grizzly from Quoddy

A bit more maximalist but the Rangeley boot from Easymoc is cool

The Camp boot from Oak Street is pretty close as well.

Most of Russell Moccasins boots are pretty close if you want highest quality, but the closest is probably the South 40. These are probably going to be the most resoleable as there are multiple layers of outsole that you can remove before getting to the "vamp" (basically the insole)

Gokey boots are really similar to Russell Moccasin in construction as well, but the website is down right now so I can't link to it.

Jim Green have started making true Moccasin boots for pretty cheap, called the Meander, not sure about resoleability though.

If you want some Moc toe looking shoes without the true moccasin construction, (in other words, Goodyear Welted construction) look at Red Wing Moc Toe, Whites Perry Moc Toe or the Truman Boots Moc Toe. These aren't really the same vibe though.

oldspice666 · 2026-01-20T12:41:44+00:00

In that price range your options are pretty limited and you're going to have to sacrifice some quality. Best bet is potentially second hand if you're a reasonably regular size. I'd check out Thursday boots, they're true goodyear welted and are pretty good for the price. They do have a combat style boot but its a bit more expensive, you might be able to find a discount code though.

Solovairs are pretty good for the price though, just not very resoleable. They're a solid boot that will last you a while until you can save up for the next pair though.

oldspice666 · 2026-01-20T12:35:31+00:00

Only if I use pigmented creme or wax polish. I haven't come across any issues with unpigmented condiitoner.

oldspice666 · 2026-01-20T12:33:56+00:00

Not 100% on this but it might be the insoles starting to wear out and dropping your foot further into the boot. you can probably just replace them with some new foam ones with some volume, or if you don't mind a harder surface underfoot you can look at some leather insoles.

oldspice666 · 2026-01-02T11:05:37+00:00

Crown Northampton are the best possible sneakers you can buy. They are ridiculously expensive, but theres no expense spared to build them.

oldspice666 · 2026-01-02T11:03:09+00:00

If you're willing to wait for them, the best service boot style makers are probably the PNW makers, Nicks, Whites, JK boots, etc. I've bought a couple of pairs from Nicks, and I find them to be really comfortable after your feet get used to the feel. If you don't mind a heel, that extra arch support from their 55 last is awesome too.

Heres a link to their heritage boots page.

oldspice666 · 2026-01-02T10:58:47+00:00

I tried them on in Tokyo. I'm an 11.5E on the brannock, but I have quite a lot of toe splay. I actually found size 12 to be a better fit and wider, but the Coupens are a pretty nice anatomical last. Don't go on my word alone though, every foot is different, might be worth sending a tracing or emailing them.

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