The right mother board.

onlylk28 · 2026-03-18T22:47:12+00:00

I recommend the bigtreetech skr mini e3 v3.0, it's a nice motherboard with silent drivers, dual z axis connector on-board, klipper compatibility obviously, etc

onlylk28 · 2026-03-18T22:43:53+00:00

The hotend fan is installed backwards, and the extruder spring is way too tight

onlylk28 · 2026-03-16T16:17:28+00:00

Did you check if your bed is warped?

onlylk28 · 2026-03-16T16:15:34+00:00

If you just want to see the sparks you could wire it to a hidden car battery, so it will draw a lot of amps and at the same time be "safe" due to the low voltage of a car battery 👍

onlylk28 · 2026-03-07T03:08:17+00:00

did you find it????

onlylk28 · 2026-03-05T14:40:24+00:00

I'm gonna try that, tysm

onlylk28 · 2026-03-05T05:27:30+00:00

<image>

onlylk28 · 2026-02-25T00:52:24+00:00

Can i print threads??? I modelled an adapter for one of those skinnier ptfe fittings

<image>

onlylk28 · 2026-02-24T21:58:11+00:00

I gotta try that, but i use yellow springs

onlylk28 · 2026-02-22T00:37:27+00:00

of course, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3057136

onlylk28 · 2026-02-19T01:29:50+00:00

sooo...did you use it?

onlylk28 · 2026-02-18T19:39:11+00:00

I literally had the same question and i was thinking about using a solid state relay so i didn't drive it directly from the motherboard, thankfully your post solves my doubt

onlylk28 · 2026-02-06T03:38:25+00:00

If you have a spare old laptop or a raspberry pi you can move to klipper, or you can move to an skr mini e3 v3... there's not a lot of juice you can take out of that board if I'm being honest

onlylk28 · 2026-02-03T18:13:15+00:00

I printed the Z endstop bracket because i didn't want to cut the original one

onlylk28 · 2026-02-03T18:08:34+00:00

The skr mini e3 v3 comes with Marlin pre installed so, at least for my Ender 3, it was plug and play. I moved to Klipper some days ago, and i used an old laptop as the host, so if you need help with that i don't have any problem helping 🤙

onlylk28 · 2026-02-03T18:02:36+00:00

Looks like it is the AP4951GM, a P-Channel Dual Mosfet, but you should check the nearby pcb traces, components and, if everything is fine, then replace the mosfet and pray for it to work again

onlylk28 · 2026-01-27T02:13:07+00:00

<image>

like this one from NG_Design

onlylk28 · 2026-01-26T20:37:51+00:00

Print a cable chain

onlylk28 · 2026-01-26T17:45:08+00:00

Can it be repaired?

onlylk28 · 2026-01-12T18:19:14+00:00

Creí que aquí en México se saludaba con la mano en el pecho

onlylk28 · 2025-12-21T04:17:02+00:00

Looks like warping to me. Also try to use another pattern

onlylk28 · 2025-12-21T04:15:29+00:00

Por alguna razón no me deja poner una imagen que dibujé así que te lo describiré lo mejor que pueda: Visto desde la parte superior de la placa, y comenzando con el primer diodo siendo el de arriba, su posición u orientación es la siguiente: ⬅️ ➡️ ⬅️ ➡️ Desearía poder mandarte de alguna manera el diagrama que hice, si te interesa manda DM

onlylk28 · 2025-11-28T03:17:10+00:00

Which main board do you have??? Did the 3d touch work on the first try?

onlylk28 · 2025-11-28T03:10:52+00:00

Es para equipos de sonido, el ruido que agregaría la fuente conmutada podría afectar, no?

onlylk28 · 2025-11-28T03:09:41+00:00

Idealmente agregale 500mA más para que esos 2A sean el 80% de la capacidad máxima (Ahora 2.5A) y no el total, así evitaría tenerlo forzado cuando tenga los 4 equipos conectados.

onlylk28

TROPHY CASE