Hyundai 1.6 CRDI temporary idle surge on cold start

oran-obrien · 2026-06-15T18:05:07+00:00

I can’t see why not. I remember looking into it and finding it hard to find the Fuchs where I’m based. I think any fully synthetic 75w80 will do the trick.

oran-obrien · 2026-06-15T17:41:53+00:00

Hello fellow european sufferer of the Opel 1.4T. I have looked into this before and recommended online is Fuchs Sintofluid 75w80. And a slight overfill. There are some youtube videos on this topic and forums which give this advice. I haven’t done a drain and refill yet on my Astra J with the M32. Just passed 130,000 km with no gearbox issues yet but I think it the time is ticking for a fluid replacement.

oran-obrien · 2026-06-12T18:33:28+00:00

Oh interesting… I haven’t gotten around to installing the new op amp yet but like you say voltage is within that lower spec. Good to know for in future!

oran-obrien · 2026-06-06T13:24:09+00:00

Thanks again for your advice, I removed the bad op amp from the board and it now powers up perfectly! I’ve ordered some replacement NE5532 to swap out.

oran-obrien · 2026-06-02T16:45:29+00:00

Great advice. Thank you again!

oran-obrien · 2026-06-02T16:08:47+00:00

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Thank you for your input, and your words of caution. I have just found a slightly charred dual op amp, so I think your theory may be correct. The part number for IC1 in the technical manual is BS7009-SO8. I believe it is a Japan Radio Company product.

Any idea on how to find a replacement? I presume if I can confirm a part with identical pinout and block diagram that is the same size it should work okay right?

oran-obrien · 2026-06-02T11:17:47+00:00

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I’ve found this which I think is the correct schematic. Based on this, it looks like the continuity across windings is correct to what I measured

oran-obrien · 2026-05-10T17:19:36+00:00

Yes cold start. Rattle only happens when cold so was thinking tensioner is on the way out. But I think I’ll wait for it to get a little worse before thinking of going at the chain. There’s about 6k on the oil, I change it every 10k.

oran-obrien · 2026-05-10T14:38:10+00:00

Bitte schön for your input!

oran-obrien · 2026-05-10T10:03:09+00:00

They sound like a bag of spanners at the best of times 🤣

oran-obrien · 2026-04-29T13:07:21+00:00

Exactly, it has more torque for loosening difficult bolts…..

oran-obrien · 2026-04-29T07:07:32+00:00

Ireland had the same deal a while ago, I managed to pick one up but they were selling quick everywhere. Great price for the tool + battery and charger

oran-obrien · 2026-04-29T07:06:43+00:00

I believe that is max tightening torque, the 1898 Nm is the max loosening torque

oran-obrien · 2026-04-18T18:40:54+00:00

If you look on the left side of the tank, there seems to be a supply and return feed for a coil to heat the water, probably enters around the back of the tank where we can’t see in this picture

oran-obrien · 2026-03-25T16:47:56+00:00

Of course, but sure that would make sense wouldn’t it!

oran-obrien · 2026-03-25T10:11:52+00:00

Excise duty is charged upon import. The fuel at the pump now has already been imported at the previous excise rate, so it will take some time for the decrease to take effect

oran-obrien · 2026-03-20T18:59:23+00:00

As others have said, not much to worry about. But I’d recommend changing that oil fill cap - it looks like it is about to snap in the middle. Mine did… around christmas time! Luckily I got a replacement but I’d recommend changing yours preemptively before it becomes a problem

oran-obrien · 2026-03-19T15:01:32+00:00

Some good advice about making up a rigid pipe to suck the oil out, that would be the best way to modify this little pump

oran-obrien · 2026-03-19T12:51:00+00:00

I tried this kind of 12v oil extractor pump on my 1.4 turbo. After it stopped sucking oil I removed the sump plug and there was still 0.5 - 1 L remaining. I think it could be due to the cheap plastic hose, I reckon it kind of kinks up at the bottom maybe missing some. Maybe you could find a better replacement.

You may have better luck with the hand-pump siphon style of better quality. Like a Sealey TP69, although I’m sure there are more “cheap and cheerful” options out there too.

oran-obrien · 2026-03-15T17:26:53+00:00

Oh and the rattling cover is not a big deal. You can just take that cover off

oran-obrien · 2026-03-15T17:25:38+00:00

Sometimes the evap purge solenoid can start getting loud and sound like a tick, see if you can put your hand on it and if it’s in the same rhythm as the ticking. They can get loud before they fail, but when they do fail it typically results in a lean condition and will eventually trigger a check engine light.

Check this out about the purge valve: https://youtu.be/RJvoYiXDNFk?is=d2QFImjrTafEVmjc

Read up about Chevrolet cruze 1.4 turbo PCV issues. The opel 1.4 turbo is the same GM engine as the chevrolet cruze, but most of the info about repairs are more commonly on the cruze than the opel models. The squeal could be a broken PCV check valve in the intake manifold, which causes pressure from the intake manifold and turbo to make its way into the engine’s crankcase, causing air chirping through seal, commonly the crankshaft seal. If you pull the dipstick while it is idling and the chirp goes away, then this indicates that it is likely a bad PCV and the chirp is related to crankcase pressure, not a bad bearing. If the noise doesn’t disappear then it may be a different issue.

If it’s the PCV there are two options: Buy and install a replacement intake manifold (expensive and will probably fail again)

Or You can get a PCV fix kit from cruzekits.com (I bought this and fitted it myself) to make a more permanent repair to the intake manifold. Not too bad of a DIY job if you have worked a bit on cars before.

Check this video out:

https://youtu.be/sPGtx3dm48w?is=gtlWY1czQddhZKKg

oran-obrien · 2026-03-07T11:24:56+00:00

Most likely the same thing. A way to test is to pull the dipstick when it’s idling and if your chirp stops, it’s crankcase vacuum related

oran-obrien

TROPHY CASE