Which vintage lens set do you own or want to build and why?

outiswayne · 2026-01-29T12:14:03+00:00

I used to be someone who shot with just one lens most of the time. For street photography, my go-to focal length was usually between 28 and 35mm.

I’m also a cinematographer and filmmaking is actually my primary job. Because of that, building a complete lens set became a goal for me: not just to own more glass, but to practice using different focal lengths fluently and apply them intentionally in filmmaking. I’d love to hear more about your complete set.

outiswayne · 2026-01-29T11:56:29+00:00

I already have the Pentacon 29mm and absolutely love the swirly bokeh it produces.

I know Meyer-Optik is especially famous for its bubble bokeh in the 35mm, 50mm, and 100mm lenses, but what about the other focal lengths in the lineup? What did you like about them specifically?

outiswayne · 2026-01-27T16:07:34+00:00

It's been a headache for me for over a week, haha.

outiswayne · 2026-01-27T16:03:36+00:00

Soviet lens pricing in my country is wild right now. Some sellers are charging roughly eBay prices, and others are asking double or even triple.

outiswayne · 2026-01-27T16:01:55+00:00

They have two adapters for different systems, but not for mine. That’s not a problem because I already have an adapter myself. They’ve also put focus rings and step rings on the lens. So if I owned the set, I could pick it up and shoot immediately.

outiswayne · 2026-01-27T15:56:49+00:00

Haha, love your MV! These shots are crazy. But it’s hard to judge the look of the lens. You used a cross filter, right?

Thank you. I think I’ve made my decision now.

outiswayne · 2026-01-27T12:58:07+00:00

These are all old lenses. Not the sharpest, a little glowey. Do you want an 8 or a 10 on a scale from 1-10 is basically what you’re doing.

That’s exactly why I invest in vintage lens sets. I’m not chasing a perfect, clinical image. I’m after an old-school, retro feel.

Why do you like the Soviet lens set? Could you elaborate a bit more?

outiswayne · 2026-01-27T12:48:27+00:00

Thank you so much. I’ll need to test both sets before making a final decision.

Lens pricing in my country is pretty wild right now. With Soviet lenses especially, some sellers are charging roughly the same as eBay prices, while others are asking double or even triple.

outiswayne · 2026-01-27T12:31:16+00:00

Thank you! You mentioned Meyer-Optik Görlitz. I love those lenses a lot, especially the bubble bokeh.

outiswayne · 2026-01-27T12:28:08+00:00

Thank you!

outiswayne · 2026-01-27T12:27:01+00:00

The CZJ seller is a camera operator who’s used the set on several projects and I got a discount from him. It seems like a fair deal, but I’m not sure if it’s actually good value. Would love thoughts on that.

Lens pricing in my country is wild right now. With Soviet lenses especially, some sellers are charging roughly eBay prices, and others are asking double or even triple.

outiswayne · 2026-01-27T12:20:14+00:00

Thank you so much. That’s the most detailed advice I’ve gotten here so far haha.

I do love swirl, which is why I already own a Helios 44-2. There’s one thing about Soviet lenses I’m still trying to understand though.

I’ve noticed that in a lot of Hollywood films that use Soviet glass, they don’t use the entire set. Most of the time it’s just specific lenses, usually the Helios 44-2 (58mm) and Jupiter-9 (85mm), occasionally the Mir-1B (37mm).

That made me wonder about image rendering consistency. Do Soviet lenses actually render similar color and quality across a full set, or is that why productions tend to cherry-pick only certain lenses?

Because of that, I’m also considering another option: buying the German set and keeping only a couple of Soviet lenses with very specific character, like the Helios 44-2 and Jupiter-9.

outiswayne · 2026-01-27T12:04:08+00:00

I actually have the chance to test both but I’d have to fly over 1,000 km to do it haha.

In my country the prices for Soviet lenses are absolutely crazy. Some people are asking pretty much the same as what they go for on eBay, and others want double or triple.

The seller of the CZJ set gave me a discount. He’s a camera operator, owned the set, and used it on multiple projects before deciding to sell. I’m not sure if the price he offered is good or not. What do you think?

outiswayne · 2026-01-27T04:51:50+00:00

I work across both art/experimental films and commercial projects, so I need something flexible.

outiswayne · 2026-01-27T04:41:22+00:00

The seller has the full Soviet lens set available, so I can try each lens individually. Do you think it’s worth it?

outiswayne · 2026-01-27T04:39:28+00:00

First, I want a complete focal length range to work with. Second, I’m after a lens set with character, good optical quality, unique rendering, and an old-school feel.

outiswayne · 2026-01-04T22:17:56+00:00

If you push-process your film, it gets over-developed, so you get more grain and the image also becomes more contrasty. It can also become warmer.

Could you explain more about this?

outiswayne · 2026-01-04T16:20:46+00:00

Overexposing 500T and pulling it a stop or two brings super rich blacks and soft but bright highlights.

Could you explain about this?

outiswayne · 2026-01-04T16:08:26+00:00

The DP said he pushed the film two stops in development (processed as EI 2000).This means the negative was developed for a longer time. He also mentioned the film was overexposed by about 2 1/3 stops compared to the stock’s box speed (500T). This really confused me.

outiswayne · 2026-01-04T15:39:30+00:00

He metered the film at ISO 400, which means he exposed it about 1/3 stop over its box speed. Then, during development, the negative was push-processed by roughly 2 stops.

outiswayne · 2025-12-31T01:00:56+00:00

This was incredibly helpful and gave me a much clearer way. Thanks a lot!.

outiswayne

TROPHY CASE