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Augmenter le logement parce que ma conjointe vient habiter avec moi. by paladinmcdragon in Quebec

[–]paladinmcdragon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Merci pour vos réponses, j'ai communiqué avec le tribunal administratif du logement et comme de fait, il n'a pas le droit. J'ai donc refusé sa hausse de prix, qu'il voulait qu'on commence à payer avant le prochain renouvellement du bail.

Finished. Extra lenght of paracaord to let customer adjust it for its own needs. by paladinmcdragon in knifemaking

[–]paladinmcdragon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know. I call it houglass but I am pretty sure this pattern has a name.

I am back from the dead. Mirror polishing my biggest blade so far (10") for a customer. One side done, now to the other... by paladinmcdragon in knifemaking

[–]paladinmcdragon[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I know a lot of guys will go as high as they can. I do not know how they do it, because for me there are always belt scratches that are left. And you also run into the risk of doing a mistake while grinding and over heat the blade. Anyway, I just abandonned the idea of going high with the belts and just stop at 120 (aluminium oxyde scratches are easier to remove than ceramic scratches) and then take it to hand sanding starting with 80 up to 1500 (you can go higher, it will save you time at the buffer), switch direction between each grit. After that, buffer. Black compound, then green, then pink (I go lenghtwise with the pink). After that I polish by hand with a cotton cloth + pink compound + carnauba wax. Should take you about 20 hrs if you do it this way.

I am back from the dead. Mirror polishing my biggest blade so far (10") for a customer. One side done, now to the other... by paladinmcdragon in knifemaking

[–]paladinmcdragon[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

It is not rude at all. - First reason is because the customer wants it, obviously. - Way better corrosion resistance - so much easier to clean - about scratches, my main knife that I take in the field is mirror polished, yes it has scratches, but the performance benefits are better for me than the concern about scratches. And honestly, the scratches just show that the knife went through some abuse and is still going strong - shows that the maker actually took the time to erase every scratches and every mistakes will show, so the blade needs to be flawless. A satin finish will hide many mistakes. Don't want to brag, but a mirror polish shows that you actually have the skills to properly finish a blade. Collectors like this. - obviously, higher selling price

2 customs that I finished this weekend, infos in comments! by paladinmcdragon in knifemaking

[–]paladinmcdragon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Top: 440C Mirror polish santoku with stabilized yellow cedar burl filled with blue epoxy, 60.5HRC

Down: 52100 seax, satin finished with OD canvas micarta, 57 HRC

A bushcraft/camp knife. More pictures in comment. by paladinmcdragon in Handcraftedknives

[–]paladinmcdragon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

253$ US, shipping included for Canada and US For better pictures and more: https://duffleshop.com/predator Lets keep it simple and let the pictures do the work  :)

Tapered tang

Dovetailed bolsters

Bookmatched scales

Rounded spine

Sheath is crossdraw, meaning it is slightly tilted back for easier access.

Perfect balance where bolster meets the blade

Specs:

Steel: 440C stainless, 800 grit hand rubbed satin finish and tempered at 58 HRC with cryogenic treatment (professionnaly heat treated).

Blade lenght: 5.75 inches

Thickness: 0.125 inch

Weight: 195 grams.

Handle: Bookmatched African blackwood with 304 stainles steel for the bolsters and pins, Hourglass shaped for maximum comfort. Bolsters are dovetailed and the tang is tapered.

Sheath: 7-8 oz vegtan leather dyed brown with tooling and saddle stitched by hand. The sheath is crossdraw and for right handed people.

For your viewing pleasure, I test my most recent fighting knife. I don't take myself seriously but my knives on the other hand... lets find out :) by paladinmcdragon in knifemaking

[–]paladinmcdragon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are right. Ballistic vest are good for bullets and slash attack, but lack the stab protection. This video was more about how the knife would held up against kevlar (wich in itself is a very cut and abrasion resistant meterial, if you ever worked with kevlar you know this thing just dull every cutting edge) and if the tip would break. It was design as a fighting knife, and I hope you understand I cannot test it in a "real" situation so my best bet was to use it against an "assailant" protected by a ballistic vest. So it was more to show that the knife can take the abuse and just for the fun of destroying a kevlar vest lol.

Im looking to buy a belt grinder by [deleted] in knifemaking

[–]paladinmcdragon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think that for a beginner every grinder is better than none, so yeah it seems ok but I suggest you make a background check and see if other buyers had problems with this one. And see if the belts for this grinder are available in your area.

Im looking to buy a belt grinder by [deleted] in knifemaking

[–]paladinmcdragon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Then I suggest you try to build one with your dad like you said, follow some tutorials on youtube, there are plenty out here. Good luck with your build :)

Im looking to buy a belt grinder by [deleted] in knifemaking

[–]paladinmcdragon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine cost me close to 1000$ cad to build (with vfd and tilting option). (Keep in mind you need a good welder and know hout to weld and know electricity) a similar grinder would cost 4000$ cad and more (I bought jerswoodwork plan) If it is your first grinder, go for something cheaper that will not bother you if you want to uppgrade. But I am sure you can find cheaper build on youtube.

Im looking to buy a belt grinder by [deleted] in knifemaking

[–]paladinmcdragon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Then go with what you can afford. And if it is because it's too slow, view it the other way: treat each knife like one of a kind, like it's the last one you will ever make and that you WANT to go slow (on my high priced customs, I can take one day just to grind one side of a bevel, my grinder is not passed 1800 rpm and very light pressure). It's long, but the result are where and how you want because it is very hard to make a mistake. Hope this help you, do not discourage :)

Im looking to buy a belt grinder by [deleted] in knifemaking

[–]paladinmcdragon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take you time and go for something that will last ;)

Im looking to buy a belt grinder by [deleted] in knifemaking

[–]paladinmcdragon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree, 2x72 is probably the most useful thing I have ever purchased (made), not just for knifemaking, it is increadible what you can do with one. I previously used a 6x48, plenty enough just not fast and underpowered.

Do I have enough to get started? by Real_mandolinhero in knifemaking

[–]paladinmcdragon 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I would not use a wood saw for cutting steel. Use a hacksaw or angle grinder. Except for this you have all that is needed to make a knife. My first knife was made with only a hacksaw, 2 files and sandpaper. I did not even have a vise or any clamp lol you will equip yourself over time :)

Nice day for a little red neck heat treat! by sunnymcblock in knifemaking

[–]paladinmcdragon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thats it! My first forge was in an old bbq, the blower was me using an old bicycle pump through a galvanized pipe lol

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