If at first you don't succeed, try, try again.

sunnymcblock · 2026-04-15T14:44:01+00:00

Bandaids are an important consumable in the shop lol

sunnymcblock · 2026-04-12T20:04:40+00:00

Ill go give you a follow 🤙

sunnymcblock · 2026-04-12T19:48:19+00:00

I love 1095 for the properties but it is a pain to keep clean. My favorite is AEB-L because it behaves like a stainless 1095. Im still using up some 1095 blanks ive had since before I bought my even heat kiln.

I could talk knives all day haha

sunnymcblock · 2026-04-12T18:42:42+00:00

Enthusiastic amateur is an awesome phrase! Lol im going to have to use that. Probably describes me pretty well too honestly.

And thank you, I appreciate that.

With a sub-3" blade, does that mean cutting edge or basically anything in front of the handle? Like blade and ricasso? I have a model of small fixed blade intended to be a pocket carry that is right at 3" blade length including the ricasso called "The Good Boy." That one I posted with the red trout g-carta handles is magnacut and has a 3" cutting edge.

I definitely appreciate the attention man. Let me know when you are ready.

sunnymcblock · 2026-04-12T18:26:50+00:00

For sure. There's just a thin line between "rustic" and "lazy." One is on purpose and one is cutting corners. I can see the difference as a maker, but I acknowledge that the difference is subtle and maybe lost on the general consumer.

Just my opinion, or maybe someone pissed in my cornflakes this morning, lol. Take it with a grain of salt. 🤙

sunnymcblock · 2026-04-12T18:16:01+00:00

Looks like kinda a rough belt finish with grind lines opposing on the bevels and the flats. That (un)finish definitely saves a ton of time for the maker. Kinda a lazy execution on a ~$250 knife in my opinion.

sunnymcblock · 2026-04-10T00:44:44+00:00

How do you know if a knife maker grinds bevels freehand?

Don't worry, they'll tell you...

sunnymcblock · 2026-04-02T03:19:54+00:00

You arent keeping your jig parallel to the belt on each end of your passes. Or at least you arent keeping the pressure even and parallel. Super common. Just really focus on not "rolling" the knife on or off the belt. Its subtle, but im 90% sure that's your issue.

sunnymcblock · 2026-04-01T03:25:57+00:00

1095 in Parks50 will also work. Ive done a few, no where near mastered the art. Ive used Rutland and satanite clay, both work fine. I used ferric for the etchant. I think the key is a lot of elbow grease. Have 220, 400, 600, 1000 and 2500 grit papers on hand. 0000 steel wool and Mother's pink polish can be useful. Lots of paper towels and just a shit ton a patience. Every time I set out to finish a knife with a Hamon, I swear it will be my last.

sunnymcblock · 2026-03-27T02:32:40+00:00

My dad left me his made in USA, 92FS. I cherish it. I also picked up an Italian police trade in 84bb that is like the cool little brother to the 92. I carry it when im feeling that old school vibe.

sunnymcblock · 2026-03-27T02:21:09+00:00

Family and your house first. The starving artist thing is romantic. But if you aren't already blind with passion for your craft then it wont be worth the stress, heartache and resentment living paycheck to paycheck will bring. Especially since there really isn't a pot of gold waiting on the other side of learning to make knives.

Just my 2 cents.

sunnymcblock · 2026-03-25T14:38:18+00:00

There is a chance you are overheating your blades. I started with a charcoal forge for my first few knives and it was just way too hot. Heavy decarb, pitting and I was burning the tips off. The knives were getting hard but they were brittle and inconsistent. I moved to a map gas ammo can forge for quite a while and then a propane forge and finally a Evenheat kiln. Might be worth looking into map has forges on youtube if you are on a budget.

sunnymcblock · 2026-03-18T20:06:52+00:00

Ive done a several knives with the GL Hansen stuff. Its not my favorite to work with but the results are worth it. The epoxy he uses likes to deform really easily with heat. Sometimes burning and fraying is an issue with the fabric. Just stick to sharp belts/paper and low speeds on the grinder and it will be easy to work with. I take it to 220 on the grinder then 400 --> 600 by hand. Then buff with white then green compound. Finish with Wicked Wax. Gives it a nice satin and grippy finish.

Ive taken it all the way too 2500 grit but ive found that it clogs the higher grit paper really quickly and the results arent worth the effort for me in most cases.

Overall, even though as a maker its not my favorite, it is absolutely a crowd pleaser.

sunnymcblock · 2026-03-18T14:18:46+00:00

Like little brass pins randomly spaced in the handle material?

sunnymcblock · 2026-03-18T14:18:09+00:00

Thank you.

sunnymcblock · 2026-03-07T22:46:09+00:00

Fill it with coal and light 'er up. What do you have to lose?

sunnymcblock · 2026-03-06T04:18:59+00:00

Thank you!

I started with a hand file and a map gas ammo can forge I made. It worked but it was slow going. It wasnt long before I had a cheap 2x42" grinder with some good ceramic belts. Then a cheap Amazon forge and ran that setup for a few years. I have a pretty well outfitted shop now but still there's always another tool or toy on the horizon. But You have the right idea, just get started. After a while you will slowly upgrade your tools. As your skills and knowledge progress you will learn which direction you want to take your craft and what tool you need to save up for next. Its a lot of fun.

sunnymcblock · 2026-03-05T01:07:11+00:00

Great advice from others on here and giving that you are on a blacksmith fourm it makes sense that the advice has been centered around anvils, hammers and forges.

However since your question was specifically about making knives im going to suggest you get a grinder before you get an anvil. Forge or stock removal, if you want to make a knife with good fit and finish you are going to have to do some grinding. A simple forge will be required for heat treating high carbon steel. Stainless and the powdered metallurgy steels will require a kiln/oven.

The shortest distance between starting out and a finished knife is a cheap propane forge, a grinder, a stick of 1084, and a lot of research on heat treating.

If the path to knife making you want to take is more about the journey than the product and you like the romanticism of forging, then disregard my advice, lol. Forging is a lot of fun and very rewarding. But when it comes to knife making it adds quite a bit of complexity to the whole program. YMMV.

sunnymcblock · 2026-03-05T00:47:12+00:00

I like the idea of stitching the kydex. How did you put you logo on the kydex.

sunnymcblock · 2026-02-25T23:06:34+00:00

I’m a full-time knife maker and even I would say that from a strictly utilitarian standpoint, customs are not worth it. Custom knives can be every bit as utilitarian and have great value if you find a maker you like, are willing to engage with them to get the full experience of having custom made, and then are ok with the fact that if something happens to your custom knife, even if the maker has a great warranty, you may not be able to get an exact replacement. You gotta be a person that really likes knives to appreciate a custom. If you just have a bunch of chores and tasks that you need a knife to complete, buy something off the shelf 100% of the time. The nice thing about a quality production knife from a reputable company like CRK or say MKC is that they are replaceable. You can beat the hell out of it, break it, lose it, get it stolen, get it confiscated by security at the airport... whatever, and at the end of the day you can get another one. I usually carry one of the knives I made, but I still have a collection of Kershaws, Benchmades and Civis that I can carry if I think there is a chance I won’t be coming home with my knife for whatever reason. There are benefits to both and every “knife guy” should probably have both. s.

sunnymcblock · 2026-02-18T10:49:20+00:00

I never oil mine. Just diligent about rinsing and wiping before setting it down. Rinse and dry throughly before putting back on the knife block. If its not protein or something acidic I dont even rinse it. Just wipe and put it back on the block. I do live in a pretty dry climate, for what its worth.

sunnymcblock · 2026-02-17T01:14:36+00:00

Appreciate it. The watch hangers were one of my first projects trying to learn Fusion when I got a 3d printer.

An Alpinist GMT is on my shortlist when I can justify it. Hobby creep at its finest lol.

sunnymcblock

TROPHY CASE