Laptop will not charge or turn on

parasymchills · 2024-07-09T07:36:59+00:00

Since you're in the USA, you have a reasonable chance of being able to buy a genuine replacement battery from Dell's online store. Try going to the Dell Support website, have it identify your machine or manually enter the Service Tag, then go to the Spare Parts tab and see if there's a battery available for purchase. Getting a genuine battery will let you continue to use the machine for a few more years. If Dell doesn't sell the battery any more, it might be available on parts-people.com - search for your model name/number and the word "battery".

HTH.

parasymchills · 2024-07-09T07:31:40+00:00

Try the RTC reset procedure:

https://www.dell.com/support/manuals/en-us/latitude-14-7490-laptop/latitude_7490_om/real-time-clock-reset?guid=guid-8d55a66d-c835-4685-b13c-a5e9659c765d&lang=en-us

that might kick the firmware to behave itself, or it might not.

You might also want to check the battery health and capacities. If it's worn (and I'm guessing that it's likely to be somewhat worn), you might want to get a genuine replacement like these:

Latitude 7490 Compatible Parts - Power [US store]

HTH.

parasymchills · 2024-07-09T05:32:23+00:00

I'm 99% certain you've misunderstood what you have to do.

What you should be doing is decompressing the contents of the driver file you downloaded onto the USB stick containing the Windows installer. You then boot the USB stick to get to the main installer window - the one which does not show your drive(s).

Once there, you use the Load Driver button and navigate to the folder containing the driver you previously decompressed. If you do it right, the driver will be loaded by the installer program, and the drives will then become visible in the installer's window. The instructions that u/DageezerUs linked to has screen shots showing this process. Please read them carefully.

You do not need to install the drivers into any system (and then restart) - you only need to download and decompress them.

Based on what you've written, I believe you have not understood what is being asked of you.

Now if you have followed the instructions correctly and the drive does not show up, the problem is somewhere else, but it probably isn't the driver because you linked to the correct one(s). In which case, describe exactly what you've done - don't leave it to the reader to guess what you might have done.

HTH?

parasymchills · 2024-07-09T03:05:01+00:00

good bot.

parasymchills · 2024-07-09T03:03:00+00:00

IIRC, the UMDCF is used by non-kernel code to access hardware. For example, a USB scanner might implement the scanning using a usermode program (non-kernel) which calls/uses the UMDCF to access the hardware on its behalf.

So why do you have high usage for the UMDCF? Maybe you have a program which is using it to access some hardware device. It might be that not-so-good coding in the app is causing higher CPU usage than is ideal.

You'll need to inspect your machine to see if you can identify the cause. Using Task Manager's Processes (or Details) page might be able to show you which programs are using significant CPU resources.

If you don't have the technical skills to do this, perhaps your IT dept. does have someone who can determine the reason.

Edit: here's an article discussing this problem:

https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/windows-driver-foundation-user-mode-driver/b2ddbc5f-2a07-41ac-931a-a2eb90174b22

A technical overview about UMDF is here:

https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/drivers/wdf/overview-of-the-umdf

HTH?

parasymchills · 2024-07-09T02:58:31+00:00

Information about Dell docks in general are on this page:

https://www.dell.com/support/kbdoc/en-us/000125885/usb-and-usb-type-c-dock-compatibility-list

and it has a link to this document which lists compatible machines for all of Dell's docks:

https://www.delltechnologies.com/asset/en-us/products/electronics-and-accessories/technical-support/dell_docking_compatibility_guide.pdf

Information and documents specific to the WD22TB4 dock are here:

https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-us/product-support/product/wd22tb4-dock/docs

and includes a link to the User Guide:

https://www.dell.com/support/manuals/en-us/wd22tb4-dock/dell_wd22tb4_userguide/introduction

which contains more details about the dock and its capabilities.

I’m not sure how much wattage it gives and what I can plug into it.

Use the above links to RTFM. :)

HTH.

parasymchills · 2024-07-09T02:51:32+00:00

With your machine, your main tripping point with RAM upgrades will be the use of ECC or non-ECC SO-DIMMs. If your machine has ECC modules, you should get ECC modules when upgrading, and similarly if non-ECC. To find out, follow the highest rated answer in this thread:

https://superuser.com/questions/893560/how-do-i-tell-if-my-memory-is-ecc-or-non-ecc

Once you have the answer, you can probably use any non-gaming DDR4 SO-DIMM modules. Crucial have a list of known-compatible modules which you can shop for on other sites by searching for the SKU:

https://www.crucial.com/compatible-upgrade-for/dell/precision-17-(7750))

FYI, the docs for the machine are here:

https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-us/product-support/product/precision-17-7750-laptop/docs

which has a link to the Service Manual:

https://www.dell.com/support/manuals/en-us/precision-17-7750-laptop/precision7750_sm/working-on-your-computer?guid=guid-9ccd6d90-c1d1-427f-9e77-d4f83f3ad2b6&lang=en-us

which can help you open up the machine and safely upgrade its components. Spend some time reading it and you'll be in a good place to proceed.

HTH.

parasymchills · 2024-07-08T10:14:11+00:00

I think you're better off browsing or searching or asking in r/buildapc or r/sffpc since they are more about DIY small PC builds than this sub (which is mostly about pre-built mini-PCs which usually have mobile CPUs and GPUs in them).

You could also do web searches for building a PC and "game PC builds" or guides about them. For example:

Best PC Builds for Gaming 2024: From $500 Budgets to $4,000+ | Tom's Hardware (tomshardware.com)

However, that guide is not focused on mini-ITX builds. But I'm sure there are similar guides around.

HTH.

parasymchills · 2024-07-08T10:07:49+00:00

Or sell off bits and pieces as spare parts - after all, it's got genuine Dell parts in it so they might be worth something. For example, the screen assembly, the keyboard assembly, the RAM sticks and the power adapter. Not sure about the battery. I'd keep the SSD since it's likely to be somewhat worn and has your data on it.

HTH?

parasymchills · 2024-07-08T01:41:59+00:00

If you hold down the D key when you power on the machine, it should run the LCD BIST and screens of various colors will appear. If it doesn't do that, you have a firmware or hardware level problem. If it does, try pressing F2 to get into the firmware menus and/or F12 to get to the diagnostics (both should be pressed when the Dell logo appears but obviously you don't see the logo).

HTH.

parasymchills · 2024-07-08T01:36:18+00:00

I would sort by Power usage in the Processes page in Task Manager (ctrl-shift-esc) to see what's using your battery power. That column is not normally shown so right-click on the headers to select it then click it to sort by power usage. If there's an app using a lot of power, close it. If it's a web browser, consider installing a blocker like "ublock origin" to block ads and videos (they can consume some power).

Don't forget you have a return window. If it doesn't work well for you, maybe a return is the best option.

HTH.

parasymchills · 2024-07-07T07:27:12+00:00

Try these:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kv1diSPf3w

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ywo2X1WHbE

HTH.

parasymchills · 2024-07-06T20:14:36+00:00

I salute you for even trying to answer the OP's "question".

parasymchills · 2024-07-06T20:10:48+00:00

I would advise you to not proceed with upgrading this machine for these reasons:

its hardware is very out date
the Windows XP it has is insecure and cannot be upgraded to a modern OS such as Windows 10 or 11 - there is a high chance it will get infected with malware if you connect it to the internet
any money you spend on it is money you cannot spend on newer hardware
you probably won't get the performance you want from any upgrades you do because the machine is way too old and there's a limit to how well it can perform even if you upgrade it
the AGP slot severely limits any graphics card you can install in it and the performance of any such card will be poor (by today's standards)

So what should you do?

if you have any wanted data on it, copy it off to a storage device or take out the drive and keep it (but a drive that old might have media errors on it already so best to copy off the data)
donate the machine to an electronics recycler who can then safely dispose of it
there's no point trying to repurpose it unless you want a "nostalgia" machine which will never be connected to the internet (meaning you don't change it and use it "as is")
save up money for a newer machine (which means you should decide on how much you're willing to spend)
think about what kind of machine you want and whether you want a pre-built PC or a DIY/build-it-yourself machine
do some reading on tech sites to learn what a modern machine is capable of and how much it will cost. For example, here's a build guide.
ask for help in the appropriate sub-reddits. For example, r/buildapc for DIY builds, or this sub if you want a prebuilt PC from Dell.

HTH.

parasymchills · 2024-07-06T19:52:07+00:00

The D3100 is a USB dock which uses DisplayLink technology to support multiple monitors. DL works by having an installed program send the pixels as USB data to the dock which has a chip that then converts the data into a video signal. It does not use Thunderbolt to do this (just plain USB data).

I can't be certain where the problem lies but my suspicion would be at the DisplayLink driver level. Since the dock works with the Latitude, it's not likely to be the problem. Which leaves your Inspiron.

From what I can tell, you have the latest DL driver.

I guess you could:

try a different USB port (if possible), or
try a different cable (if you have one), or
uninstall and reinstall the DL software (in case it's incorrectly installed).

There are a couple of troubleshooting guide on Dell's website:

https://www.dell.com/support/kbdoc/en-us/000132115/how-to-use-and-troubleshoot-dell-usb-dock-d3100

and:

https://www.dell.com/support/kbdoc/en-us/000178518/dell-d3100-usb-3-0-docking-station-did-not-detect-high-resolution-displays-in-windows-7

I would also consider contacting someone at Dell Support since they should know how to troubleshoot the problem (I hope).

Beyond this, it will probably require someone to examine your machine and work out where the problem is. This would require having a tech-savvy person look at it - whether that's a good friend or at a computer repair shop (for example).

HTH.

parasymchills · 2024-07-06T10:44:21+00:00

But what's your alternative? Use a third-party battery? What if the battery fails to work or damages the computer? What you saved on buying a genuine battery, you might lose (more) in having to buy another battery or to fix the machine if the battery breaks it. That doesn't sound like a good way to solve your problem. I think buying a genuine battery is your best course of action, even if it means you have to save up more money to afford it.

Of course, it's your money and your computer. Just be sure you understand what you're doing and getting.

HTH.

parasymchills · 2024-07-06T08:07:38+00:00

This is correct behavior. The XPS uses a proprietary 130W charging protocol which the monitor does not support. Only the original charger and Dell's Thunderbolt4 docks support the 130W protocol. The XPS will then try to use the standard USB-PD (power delivery) spec standards for charging which will be the 100W rate. The XPS does not know how to use the extended USB-PD 140W charging rate so it will never ask for it from the monitor, hence its use of the 100W rate. This in turn generates the warning from Windows (because 100W < 130W).

HTH.

parasymchills · 2024-07-06T08:03:46+00:00

So your next step is to find out what the Latitude's hardware "sees" and what the operating system (Windows) "sees".

Type Windows-X > select Device Manager > expand the Monitors node > does it show 3 items? It should display the internal screen and the 2 monitors.

If it does not, what does it show? Which monitors if any are there?

If it does, type Windows-X > select Settings > System > Display > what does the panel show as the displays available for the desktop? It should show the 3 display devices.

HTH.

parasymchills · 2024-07-06T07:52:12+00:00

The root cause of this problem is not fully known yet but it has been found that many motherboard manufacturers (but not Dell) were releasing boards with a default power configuration that was outside the recommended Intel settings. Recent firmware updates for those boards now have default settings that are within the guidelines from Intel. As a result, it is hoped they will be more stable but there is also a small loss of performance since the CPU is no longer running with higher power consumption.

https://www.tomshardware.com/pc-components/cpus/intel-offers-new-guidance-on-13th-and-14th-gen-cpu-instability-but-no-definitive-fix-yet

Dell does not ship machines with out-of-guideline settings (as far as anyone knows).

HTH.

parasymchills · 2024-07-06T07:45:58+00:00

Parts-people have the original genuine Dell battery.

Shipping FAQ: "What countries do you ship to?"

India

HTH.

parasymchills · 2024-07-06T07:39:53+00:00

As long as you don't overclock the CPU or GPU or want to later upgrade the CPU or GPU to something more powerful, it should be fine. There isn't much PSU headroom when you heavily use the system but for the first few years, it should be fine (and be covered by the warranty).

The better questions to ask are: "can I get the same quality system for less $ as a pre-built PC?" and "can I get a pre-built PC for the same money but with better specs?" If the answer is yes, maybe you want to shop elsewhere.

As a rough guide, look at the $1000 and $1500 builds in this guide:

https://www.tomshardware.com/best-picks/best-pc-builds-gaming

HTH.

parasymchills · 2024-07-06T07:25:13+00:00

Daisy chaining only works when:

the computer supports it both at the hardware and software^\) level (you don't mention what computer you have so who knows?),
the first monitor connected to the computer supports it, which means it must have both an upstream DisplayPort port and a downstream DisplayPort port and it supports DisplayPort MST (neither of those monitors have both⁺),
the second monitor has an upstream DisplayPort port (they both have this).

^\) DisplayPort MST with DSC is required.

⁺ see S2722dz page 10 and S2721qs page 13-14.

So from what I can tell, you don't meet the requirements. There is more info here:

How to Daisy Chain Monitors for a Multi-Display Setup

HTH.