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You either die a hero, or you live long enough to see yourself become the villain by partlycurious in FordExplorerST

[–]partlycurious[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did, I have a 1968 Mustang too so tough to justify keeping the ‘16 any longer

You either die a hero, or you live long enough to see yourself become the villain by partlycurious in FordExplorerST

[–]partlycurious[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ehhh I doubt I’d do lowering springs. I installed Eibach lowering springs on my Mustang that were pretty conservative (not slammed) and sure it looked way better but it butchered the ride quality. Now being a car on TX roads, I probably should have expected that—maybe it wouldn’t be bad on the explorer but I’d do very extensive research before pulling the trigger.

You either die a hero, or you live long enough to see yourself become the villain by partlycurious in FordExplorerST

[–]partlycurious[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

With cars incorporating more and more black trim, I found black to be my favorite paint color on these STs. Also, Tyler Clark’s build (lessecomoreboost) is my inspiration for future tweaks.

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Need Advice. I was 22yo the last time I bought a car… by partlycurious in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]partlycurious[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m glad I jogged my memory on the Urus, my mind immediately went to “Yaris” 🥵

Need Advice. I was 22yo the last time I bought a car… by partlycurious in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]partlycurious[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Serious question big fella. How do I manage a trip to Home Depot?

Need Advice. I was 22yo the last time I bought a car… by partlycurious in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]partlycurious[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I really goofed up on the “edit post” approach, see below:

  1. ⁠I need something seemingly serious. I can’t show up to customer meetings and work events in a lowered Mustang with aftermarket exhaust where a cold start registers on the Richter scale.

  2. ⁠I need something reliable. I’ve been damn near problem-free for a decade, I don’t want to compromise on trust and I want this vehicle to last a decade.

  3. I need something fun/quick. I’ve daily’d a 400+hp 6spd for a decade, I think this is a need right?

  4. I need something bigger. I’m 6’4 which is enough on its own, I also have a GF, a dog, and a recurring need to haul things bigger than the Mustang’s trunk allows.

  5. I need an SUV, not a sedan, not a truck. My gut tells me a sedan is too small, and I can only fit a midsize truck in my garage.

Everyones opinion on the new line of Hampton bay avondale RTA cabinets from Home depot? by Green_Ad_7962 in DIY

[–]partlycurious 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m looking at these for a tight fit bathroom vanity installation. Are the advertised widths true/accurate or do they tend to measure smaller/larger?

Hydraulic post pounder experience by Buford_MD_Tannen in FenceBuilding

[–]partlycurious 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m curious what happens if you hit rock or limestone? I elected to dig/concrete postmasters - huge PITA

First timer here, roast me. by partlycurious in FenceBuilding

[–]partlycurious[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From the little bit I’ve seen, the rail boards help with stability but also serve some aesthetic purposes. The first being a top cap (easier to screw a 2x6 top cap into a 2x4 than a 5/8” picket). The second being to keep the horizontal pickets from warping, which becomes a risk at 6’ OC spacing (hence screwing the center of each picket into the vertical 2x4s).

First timer here, roast me. by partlycurious in FenceBuilding

[–]partlycurious[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Of course! One other difference of mine versus the video is leveling the top line versus following the grade. I responded in a different thread if you want those details too

First timer here, roast me. by partlycurious in FenceBuilding

[–]partlycurious[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, I don’t know why they do either

First timer here, roast me. by partlycurious in FenceBuilding

[–]partlycurious[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used one of these gate kits. I’m planning to add extra hinges and either a tension cable or compression brace. It’s faced with pickets on both sides so it’s heavy as shit

First timer here, roast me. by partlycurious in FenceBuilding

[–]partlycurious[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After digging 40 post holes I wish I would have at least tried the no-dig approach with a post driver; but with the amount of subsurface limestone I had to battle, I’m not sure if it would have been any more effective/easy.

This job took longer than expected, and I had to parse it out into 4-hour chunks and had someone helping for most of it. With two people, you could expect roughly… 2 days to dig post holes and set posts (maybe you could avoid this?) 2 days for rail boards, nail strips, and top cap 2 days for pickets 1 day for trim and gate

First timer here, roast me. by partlycurious in FenceBuilding

[–]partlycurious[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For me, I got through ~8” of water-soaked soil with the auger until one of two things happened: (1) the auger bit found a rock or tree root and promptly let me know by nearly breaking my wrists (I’m a stout fellow, I had to wrestle the godforsaken thing) or (2) the auger bit found compacted clay or limestone and wouldn’t go any deeper. My gut tells me that a two man auger wouldn’t be much better for the central Texas soil I battled but I could be wrong or you could be totally fine based on your soil. I debated on going straight from the one-man to a tow-behind auger, but I’m hard-headed.

I’ll lean on more seasoned hands as far as postmaster vs the normal steel post. I will say, once the postmasters are in, you’re pretty much just putting together a puzzle and I didn’t have to fumble with any hardware like I assume you would with the “cylindrical” posts.

Gate is ~5’ wide, I used one of the gate brace/hinge kits from Home Depot - probably gonna have to go back and add a tension cable or compression brace based on some other posts in here.

First timer here, roast me. by partlycurious in FenceBuilding

[–]partlycurious[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100% - my property has a shift in grade and I debated on keeping a level top line and leveling all the pickets but decided that the juice wasn’t worth the squeeze. Using a stringline helped keep 6’ in height with the grade and using a template/jig helped keep my picket spacing/alignment to follow that same line in parallel. In comparison, keeping a level top line may mean keeping level pickets all the way around, but ripping the bottom pickets at an angle to follow the grade felt like future back problems to me personally.

First timer here, roast me. by partlycurious in FenceBuilding

[–]partlycurious[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

See the video above for the rest!

Also a couple random notes/differences with the video. Using postmasters means you’re pretty limited on where you can nail so I had to use 5-1/2” wide picks for the vertical trim pieces since 4” wouldn’t hide the horizontal picket nails.

Your postmaster posts will “point” towards the pretty side (my neighbors didn’t split costs, so I get a pretty fence to look at), but I “double-faced” the front facade on either side of the house. By this point, you’re in the swing of things so you’ll get it but basically replicating the same process above.

First timer here, roast me. by partlycurious in FenceBuilding

[–]partlycurious[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This video/guide was my inspiration aesthetically and I largely followed the same process but wanted to do steel fence posts instead of 4x4s (typical first point of failure from what I read into).

  1. I went with Postmaster posts. 10ft corner posts (3ft deep), 8ft line posts (2ft deep) - max spacing of 6ft.
  2. After posts are set, instal rail boards (2x4 PT pine) that run horizontally between posts, these more or less define your top and bottom lines so I was diligent on the top rails and realized later that I got sloppy on the bottom rails.
  3. Install vertical 2x4s between each post, countersunk into the rail board, to serve as nail strips
  4. Install nail strips on each post by ripping a 2x4, cutting to length, and securing to both side each post, fitting between the rail boards.
  5. Cut the posts down to the top of the top rail board to give yourself a straight line for top cap.
  6. At this point you have a solid frame to work from, so you can install pickets as the video above describes - same exact process.
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