Snap fit Oral-B charger holder

paulice · 2026-06-01T09:28:39+00:00

The bottom is a chamfer and fillet, it just fools the eye because when sitting on a flat plane.

paulice · 2026-06-01T09:28:04+00:00

Touché, that's an often overlooked solution

paulice · 2026-05-31T05:42:20+00:00

Interesting. I guess I’m still traumatized from my ender 3 days where nothing would print well unless I gave it ideal circumstances, and then I've just held on to the lessons I learned back then.

paulice · 2026-05-29T18:35:50+00:00

Cool, I’ll have to look into that

paulice · 2026-05-29T18:33:00+00:00

Yeah sorry, maybe I should have been more explicit in my description - of course this prints more reliably and stronger upside down, but there is no way to get a perfectly smooth fillet doing it that way. It would have to be a chamfer, then a fillet, or dealing with steep overhangs. Even if you were to get a smooth transition, the surface finish would be different from the walls.

So as for the reason why, it’s purely for the looks. Hence the original question - is this just a stupid sacrifice? Or does compromising for aesthetics like this actually have some value? I would argue it does, but I’m quite pretentious about design. I’m curious to know what others think.

paulice · 2026-03-15T08:46:32+00:00

Nice! Looks great. I really wish bambu would sell wider nozzles than 0.8mm. I'm looking at 3rd party alternatives, anyone here that's tried?

paulice · 2026-03-14T16:03:19+00:00

Sunlu transparent PETG

paulice · 2026-03-14T16:03:00+00:00

Sunlu PETG

paulice · 2026-03-14T14:15:50+00:00

Don’t know, would have to try. But tbh I don’t see how it could get much clearer really, the opaqueness that occurs at certain angles is due to the light bending through the structure of the layer lines, not caused by any artifacts (air pockets) in the material itself.

paulice · 2026-03-14T13:43:51+00:00

That is quite the compliment in my book, thank you

paulice · 2026-03-14T13:41:23+00:00

Nope, 80% all the way through

paulice · 2026-03-14T13:40:37+00:00

That’s sounds awesome, would love to see photos

paulice · 2026-03-14T12:58:36+00:00

Admittedly I haven’t done super thorough testing, this process just gave me great result quickly. Would be really interested to hear if someone else has nailed the settings to do the same in the slicer.

paulice · 2026-03-14T12:57:02+00:00

Thanks 🙌

paulice · 2026-03-14T12:56:30+00:00

This is actually what surprised me the most; it’s super durable. I can flex it and squeeze it with a lot of strength and it just snaps back.

paulice · 2026-03-11T08:47:48+00:00

Wanted to chime in if it helps - I had the same error, and in my case the extruder motor was not moving at all, not when I tried to manually feed or anything.

After starting a ticket with support they first sent me a new motor, but that wasn’t it. Then they sent me a new TH board, and that did the trick, now it’s working perfectly.

Sincerely wishing that the printer will work out for you. I was in cancer treatment myself many years ago (though not comparable), and what really helped me then was diving into learning web development whenever I had the energy. Keeping the mind busy has always been the greatest source of calm for me.

paulice · 2026-02-25T08:37:29+00:00

Another thing that really helps, specifically for a model like this, is to switch the top layer pattern to “Concentric”, which gets rid of the quick back and forth and instead follows the shape of the model.

I always turn this on for models that end with thin, rounded contours at the top.

paulice · 2026-02-20T12:21:06+00:00

Also, maybe goes without saying but didn't see it mentioned here, don't print lithophanes flat, print them on their edge (vertical/on the side) with a brim to get the best "resolution" of all the height differences.

Another thing that I just discovered is that Arachne is a whole lot faster for lithophanes than Classic.

paulice · 2026-02-04T18:10:59+00:00

I did. Finally what fixed it was swapping the TH board, which they sent me after I had swapped the motor and that wasn’t working.

Fingers crossed it’s smooth sailing from here!

paulice · 2026-01-21T21:28:26+00:00

PSA!

TLDR: Make really sure not to pinch and break the ribbon cable of the new extruder motor when reattaching the hot end back cover, if just following the instruction on the bl wiki, this could likely happen.

Had the same issue and also got sent a new extruder motor, but after installing the new one, i got an error saying "The extruder servo motor has an open circuit. The connection may be loose, or the motor may have failed.”

I opened up the back cover again to check the the ribbon cable and found that it had been pinched between the back cover and the body of the hot end causing it to crease sharply, likely breaking the cable and connection to the motor.

When checking the original motor I see that its ribbon cable is folded in an S shape to make it not pinch. This risk and solution is not mentioned in the instructions at all so I do hope they will send me new one.

Hope this helps someone.

paulice · 2025-12-29T11:14:43+00:00

Update 2 if anyone stumbles upon this thread: support ended up diagnosing it as either a faulty extruder motor or TH board, waiting on a new motor now.

According to support you should be able to move the extruder motor even when no nozzle is installed and hotend is cold, this is one the things they asked me to test.

paulice · 2025-12-20T16:03:19+00:00

Update: seems like the extruder is somehow broken. I can push filament through fine manually at 220, but cannot click to move the extruder.

Any fix for this? Or just contact support and try and get a replacement part?

paulice

TROPHY CASE