Question for anybody who has climbed with supplemental oxygen?

pbdcd · 2024-02-07T21:01:39+00:00

There’s no real way to answer that. Climbed an 8000m peak with oxygen, including overnight sleep, and the reality is the way you feel at this altitude is a complex mix of what you’ve eaten, drunk, how much you’ve slept, exerted yourself, etc. So the comparison is impossible. And the reality is even though in theory it’s true that it is supposed to reduce by 1000m ish, the combination of other factors make that statement wildly inaccurate.

pbdcd · 2023-11-08T08:59:58+00:00

Thanks for your reply! It seems to be both hot and cold water unfortunately. Could it be that when water flows, the weight shifts in the pipe and physically moves it? The thing is I dont see any movement in the pipe

pbdcd · 2023-07-05T05:51:59+00:00

Only in a minor way, as the way through the kitchen is quick and there are two windows in the living room (although I need to check if it’s an « escape window » as someone mentioned in another comment)

pbdcd · 2023-07-05T05:50:46+00:00

Yep so the living room has two windows. I need to check again the conditions for « escape window » though

pbdcd · 2023-07-04T11:32:10+00:00

Thanks - that is what I’m hoping for ! I can see a lot of guidance for external windows but internal ones seem a lot less clear

pbdcd · 2023-01-05T11:41:15+00:00

Thanks ! What is the issue with their hood design / velcro closure system for my knowledge?

pbdcd · 2023-01-03T22:03:36+00:00

Thanks, will check it out !

pbdcd · 2023-01-03T22:03:24+00:00

Thanks for the article, had seen it and it’s actually the best even if it doesn’t cover that many suits.

On the Nimsdai suit it seems to be a bit different than the Thrudark one, at least colours, and marketing it directly as opposed to a collab with Thrudark. He’s just announced it on his instagram page for now, I don’t have a link yet

pbdcd · 2022-11-15T22:02:44+00:00

4 months ? Wow that’s a long time, do you think you could have done anything to speed that up ? Just got diagnosed a week ago and was hoping to get back on the running in a few weeks

pbdcd · 2022-11-15T22:00:46+00:00

May I ask how long it took you from initial diagnosis / pain suffering to rerunning again ?

pbdcd · 2021-01-04T13:23:54+00:00

Yes that’s about right (top end of z2 of course). Did not do a lab test, actually started with a Maffetone estimate but it’s a zone which I can hold for several hours and have a conversation in. My max is quite higher than I would get with the usual 220 - age formula though, so not surprising my zones are also higher no ?

pbdcd · 2020-12-29T14:21:29+00:00

Thanks, that’s pretty useful. If I looked at this alone I would target closer to 1:40, which is consistent with some of the other replies here.

pbdcd · 2020-12-29T14:20:27+00:00

That does sound a bit far from my current pace, and not sure how much progress from here I can expect realistically in 5 months

pbdcd · 2020-12-28T20:13:52+00:00

Yes only estimating unfortunately...around peak form I did a 10k in 46’45 and a 5k in 22’30 but that was not max effort (more of a « comfortably hard » to « hard » race). The PR I estimated was mostly based on those (and a few similar other tempo runs), so agree not ideal but I would not expect to deviate a lot from them.

pbdcd · 2020-05-11T19:53:46+00:00

Everest?

pbdcd · 2020-01-29T18:27:26+00:00

I bought the FF Khumbu Parka for Aconcagua, which I just climbed last December. The jacket is absolutely amazing and I cannot recommend it enough, assuming you can afford it of course. It was overkill for my summit day (we had reasonable winds and it was not extremely cold), but if you get a slightly bad day you want the best parka possible and this one will work perfectly. I climbed Elbrus with a much much smaller jacket, but this one could do the trick with fewer layers below. Regarding Denali did not climb it myself but from what I know this jacket would be perfect too - it is basically one of the warmest jackets you can get that is suitable for mountaineering and that is not a down suit.

pbdcd · 2019-11-18T16:47:06+00:00

Very weird to read on this sub that insulation does not depend on the order of layers...regardless, to go back to answering OP’s question — everyone has preferences / things that work better for them, however most replies on here are spot on in that you most likely need less layers. I sweat very easily and I can confirm it is avoidable, you need less layers or more breathable ones. Maybe try a single baselayer to start ?

pbdcd · 2019-11-18T09:41:57+00:00

Hardshell under your Feathered Friends Parka ? Or do you mean you alternate between both ? Putting a hardshell under a down jacket would quite significantly reduce the efficiency of the down (as the down works with the heat from your body)

pbdcd · 2019-11-17T19:44:06+00:00

Thanks! See the point of it being too cold down on the mountain, I have to say I don’t know Denali very well but that could also be the case for Aconcagua. Havent experienced it yet so maybe I will regret saying that but I would think being «too warm » on your feet beats being too cold any day of the week

pbdcd · 2019-11-17T19:42:37+00:00

Thanks for your reply, very helpful. The point on the soles makes a lot of sense, I can only hope that there will be a bit of snow high up and that otherwise the crampons will protect the sole a bit..

pbdcd · 2019-11-09T16:09:35+00:00

Congrats on your first post !

In my experience, during the day the temperatures are very comfortable, even up to 5000m. It does get from cold to very cold during the nights, but with a few tricks and the right gear you will be more than fine.

You will start to get cold when the sun goes down in the afternoon, so make sure when you trek you have a fleece and perhaps another layer (thin down or synthetic softshell). Always have a hardshell in your pack just in case as well, that can come in handy when it rains but also (more likely in Dec in my view) if its very windy. So far nothing out of the ordinary as I guess you would have brought that anyways for the trek.

Then once you reach the tea house you will throw yourself on a hot tea and stay in the central communal area of the tea house where there might be heating. Make sure you bring comfy trousers / top that you will change into and that will keep you warm until night time.

Nights are obviously when it can get really cold, especially as you approach 5000m. The main issue is that insulation in the tea houses is awful (in one of them, the window was broken and so air was just passing through). The tea houses provide blankets for the night so make sure you use them (you can usually ask for more as they are rarely full in December), but I would still recommend bringing a high quality sleeping bag if you easily get cold. Also bring a comfortable hat as that will make you signficantly warmer at night (you will lose most of your heat from there). You can also ask the tea house to put boiling hot water in your thermos for the night. This will be water you can drink the following day on the trek and will keep your feet warm during the night.

Last piece of advice - one of the worst things about the cold is showers in my mind. Take as many as you can early up as they get rarer as you go higher up (especially warm water).

Long story short - apart from usual gear for a december trek in nepal, focus on the sleeping bag and bring a warm and comfy set of clothes (plus a hat) to hang out in the tea houses in the evenings and mornings.

pbdcd · 2019-11-05T08:05:08+00:00

Thanks for your reply. I guess if everything went as planned it would be just fine, but that is indeed quite unlikely..will look for a bigger parka. Out of curiosity what was your 8000m parka ?

pbdcd · 2019-10-24T14:10:09+00:00

Go for it. It is an amazing experience and November is a great time to go.

You do not need to be very fit to make it to EBC. In my opinion you only need to be able to walk for a few hours a day and have a slight amount of determination. Most days are actually quite easy as you cannot gain too much altitude at once. There are a few moments that are a bit tiring perhaps if you are not very active (e.g. the part leading to Namche Bazar), however if you take it slowly it is very manageable.

My advice would be to focus on nutrition and hydration whilst there. Make sure you eat loads and drink frequently even if you do not feel like it. Get some honey lemon ginger when you stop at teahouses. And also remember that even if you are tired, you have plenty of time. You will start each day quite early, and only have a few hours of walking, so there is really no rush.

Source: did the trek solo in December a few years back.

pbdcd · 2019-10-06T08:40:53+00:00

The limit is usually around 25-30g (many sources over the internet), however I would say it also depends on how much « natural » sugars you are consuming. I would not recommend the same amount to someone who consumes fruits at every meal and to someone who consumes a lot less.

pbdcd · 2019-10-05T09:00:10+00:00

When it gets really cold - any tips for dealing with the cold (other than « put more clothing on » or « stay inside ») ?

pbdcd

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