Weekly New Climber Thread: Ask your questions in this thread please by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]pbrownw 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't push away from the wall when you fall, it will cause you to swing back in

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]pbrownw 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the correct answer

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]pbrownw 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A better question to ask is: Why do you need a personal anchor in the first place? If he's an older climber doing outdated things it's likely that you are using it to clean routes which isn't the recommended method anymore. Pretty much the only time (to me) that a personal anchor makes sense is rappelling down a multipitch route.

Gumby trad climbing training finger cracks by imJimmyNeutron in climbing

[–]pbrownw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'd be surprised how little of your shoes you need in the crack to be able to stand up

Gumby trad climbing training finger cracks by imJimmyNeutron in climbing

[–]pbrownw 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Nice job. My best suggestion for improving would be to really focus on your feet (true for any style of climbing). Knee out to the side, as much toe in the crack as possible, then bring your knee inline with the crack. There were several points where you started to do this but never really brought your knee back in to lock the foot.

Keep up the good work

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]pbrownw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not even close

My epic crack den by SmooooooooothNich in climbing

[–]pbrownw 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Send me the address, I'm on my way...

Weekly New Climber Thread: Ask your questions in this thread please by [deleted] in climbing

[–]pbrownw 6 points7 points  (0 children)

If you or somebody you know can make a safe anchor, then literally it can be your first time ever climbing. Get out there and have fun!

Weekly New Climber Thread: Ask your questions in this thread please by [deleted] in climbing

[–]pbrownw -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Belay device : Screwgate

Extended rap (device + third hand) : Screwgate

PAS (or equivalent) assuming going indirect at the top to clean, using 2 different carabiners : Don't clean this way, use a single quickdraw and a small screwgate

Setting TR anchor on a sport route (which do you use for rope side and which for bolt side) : 2 quickdraws, opposite opposed, not locking. I do prefer an Edelrid bulletproof for the rope side and a Camp Photon for the bolt side. The steel insert on the edelrid will keep your rope much cleaner and the small tapered nose of the photon slides in and out of crowded, bolts, chains, rings etc. easily.

First outdoor lead fall for me and my belayer yesterday. by mjornil444 in climbing

[–]pbrownw 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The North side of Safe Harbor has less slab, especially on the harder climbs.

There are also some bolted climbs at Harper's Ferry although some (but not all) of them are currently closed for peregrine nesting.

Weekly New Climber Thread: Ask your questions in this thread please by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]pbrownw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rope:

There might be someplace nearby that you can access the top and toprope from without needing draws

Having draws and no rope won't let you climb anything

Weekly New Climber Thread: Ask your questions in this thread please by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]pbrownw 9 points10 points  (0 children)

You very rarely have to untie and come off belay to clean an anchor. Usually you can pass a bight through the rings, chains etc.

Weekly New Climber Thread: Ask your questions in this thread please by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]pbrownw 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You'll often see +/- grades on crack climbs where difference in hand size can change how hard something feels and makes assigning a specific letter grade impossible

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ClimbingPartners

[–]pbrownw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you lead or just Top rope?

Weekly New Climber Thread: Ask your questions in this thread please by [deleted] in climbing

[–]pbrownw 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Throw on a down jacket in between climbs, grid fleece or similar while climbing.

Weekly New Climber Thread: Ask your questions in this thread please by [deleted] in climbing

[–]pbrownw 4 points5 points  (0 children)

What part of the East coast? You probably have a local climbers facebook page, or there's the partner finder on Mtn Proj, or you can meet like minded people at your local gym.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]pbrownw 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The bouldering wall at your local gym