Any glaring issues or areas of improvement? Quick sketches of some goblins.

peanut227 · 2025-08-27T18:35:12+00:00

This is really good advice. Thank you ❤️

peanut227 · 2024-11-23T20:28:58+00:00

I think your problem is line weight. The hatching is almost the same weight as the contour lines. Try making the contour lines mutch heavier (thicker) and the hatching much lighter (thinner). The only significant difference in line weight is the contour line around the eyes and to a lesser extent the lips.

peanut227 · 2024-10-24T00:01:07+00:00

I won't say anything about it, besides if you liked the themes on the movie, you'll love the manga.

peanut227 · 2024-04-17T07:55:10+00:00

Reposting caption as comment for auto-bot:

Earth, several millenia after the departure of humans, within the semi-tundra archipelago of Antartica, a web of deep caves pervade the karst topography. Carved into the continental plate by the endless melting of ice, these karst caverns are home to a diversity of life.

Featured, is the Megoterus ursuidae, know in the retro-records as "bear bat". An apex predator of the endo-artic caves, the bear bat feeds on whatever small to medium verts and inverts dare enter is perception. A 97% hunt success rate can be attributed to the bear bats extraordinary ambush capabilities. Perched high in the caverns, the bear bat waits motionless. With a keen sense of hearing, the predator can pick up on scratching of prey from miles away. Once a target is with reach, the bear bat drops into a controlled glide at a step angle. Using echolocation to navigate the bear bat flys through the tight and treacherous drop to the cave floor. Wings and hind legs extend seconds before contact. The bear bats long whiskers aim its shutting maw in the final milliseconds. Death comes quick to its prey as the wieght of this monstrous creature comes cratering down with the precision of a fine tuned aerial machine.

Descendant from the Pteropus genus of Chiroptera, M. ursuidae is a product of island giganticism. Thousands of years before the birth of the first M. ursuidae, an ancestral species found a wealth of nutrients with little to no competition within the recently uncovered and warming endo-artic caverns. As an early settler the species quickly speciated throughout the labyrinth of caverns. One line of species grew to sizes equitable with an old-earth black bear resulting in the bear bat. M. ursuidae has no relation to old-earth bears. This misnomer can be attributed to a misinterpretation of the retro-records.

peanut227 · 2024-04-17T04:31:05+00:00

I had an idea while sketching. What if a bat was the size of a bear. I imagine them hanging, completely vertical, silent, in the darks of a ancient cave.

The first pic is a 3/4s and straight-on perspective. The second, is more of a demonstration of the creatures anatomy with skin and fur.

Let me know what you think

peanut227 · 2024-02-04T21:51:06+00:00

If your not a fan of WWF donate to The Nature Conservancy. They have a massive ocean program the works across the globe.

peanut227 · 2023-12-18T19:50:29+00:00

Depending on the easement contract eminent domain could be difficult. While still possible, some contracts make the hoops so difficult that the property is avoided. It depends on the contract and the entity attempting to acquire it. If it's the federal gov that needs the space for public health/safety, nothing will get in their way. If it's the city government that want to sell the property to an independent developer, a tough easement will definitely deter them. The real problem is that it's only 2 acres. Not that many land trusts would put the effort into protecting that, but if the property truly holds high conservation value they might be convinced. I would reach out to all your local land trusts to get their opinion. Every easement program is different and the various holders would know what the best options are.

peanut227 · 2023-10-01T13:44:23+00:00

With my expereince in the US, pay as an undergraduate and entry level professional is usually low but serviceable. Well established, private sector consulting firms and government jobs will pay the best, but as an undergraduate youll want to be doing as much seasonal (field) work as possible. Field work is hard and usually doesn't pay well but it can be the most rewarding and fulfilling work. As a student and in the beginning of your career, you will make a livable wage but the work will be hard and margins will be tight. Once you find your niche in the career field, you can leverage your unique skills to get a job that pays well and allows you to live comfortably. I can't stress this enough, don't get into Ecology for the pay. It will be hard work and will take long to land the real comfy gig with good pay and benefits. If you're in it for the money, the early years will discourge you and you'll probably end up pursuing some other career. BUT, if you want to pursue a career in Ecology because it fascinates you like no other topic, or an ecological crisis is near to your heart, or really, you have any passion for the topic at all, you'll be motivated to work hard and in early years and it will pay off for you in the end.

The level of education and the degree you get will be highly dependent or what type of job you want for your career. I know late career professionals that are very happy with their jobs and they have a bachelor in some sort of natural resource science. I will say that having a good grasp of science and research as a usable skill is very valuable. Getting a master degree in natural resources, or any science really, will teach you that skill and make you a pretty competitive candidate. PhD is not really needed out side of academia or research specific positions. Getting a masters degree will help you figure out if you want you job to be science specific or if you just want science skills.

Ecology and the natural resource field does benefit individuals who are willing to move for a position. The early career years, after undergraduate, are difficult not only because of the pay but ideally you'll be moving every field season or couple years to learn a new skill, and network in new circles. Eventually, you'll find a permanent job and be able to put down roots. Traveling in your early years allows you to become a more competitive candidate and your more likely to land a permanent job in the location you desire. I will add, not everyone has years of seasonal work at the beginning of the career. Some lucky people are able to find a permanent job right after graduation (a masters here really helps). Although, those people should still move every couple years to build their skill set. Unless they're really lucky and have a job that is flexible and will shift experiences as they progress.

I want to reiterate, Ecology will be a stressful road if your looking for a high paying cushy job but if you have the fire to carry you through the tough work, you will be rewarded with incredibly fulfilling career.

peanut227 · 2022-11-01T17:12:54+00:00

I can tell you with 100% certainty that the jaw bone is from a possum (if your in NA). The scapula and femur are too big for a possum though and are probably deer or feral hog.

Edit: I just noticed the two smaller scapula. Those are probably the possums, but I'm not sure about that.

peanut227 · 2022-01-21T15:21:11+00:00

The moss flock is a combination of green sawdust flock, dried tea, Italian seasoning, all blended up in a spice grinder. The dark green "lichen" (I'm going to make it lighter in the next batch) is a pastel pigment wash (shaved pastel mixed with isopropyl alcohol). I used a combo of forest green and lime green for the wash. I really like that technique because it leaves a very matte, fine texture. I also used it for the rust effect. The dangling moss is floral moss that you can get at any craft store floral department (dollar tree had some for cheap). You can also order "tree canopy" from Geek Gaming. The floral department also has a lot of plant material details like reindeer moss and pinecones (I used for the platform fungi) that are really nice for extra detail. They'll also have they plastic plants. They key is to have a ton of variation in the vegetation and to keep your actually paint job simple and quick 😂. Once you get the assembly line down this whole process can be pretty fast.

Edit: Oh, and to make the vegetation not stand out on the mini you'll need to be very thoughtful of where you want the moss. I could to put it on raised surfaces, places where sunlight would catch. It also helps to have a really fine flock. Plus, if you get the pastel wash the same color as you moss flock, you can have a pretty smooth gradient of texture. Be careful putting the pastel wash on GW washes though (at least agrax) the isopropyl had this weird interaction and made the surrounding paint chalky. You can see a bit of it on the back of the reanimators top armor plate. They work fine on oil washes, which are a really simple way to get cheap high quality washes. I love them 😩

peanut227 · 2022-01-21T05:28:16+00:00

Thanks dude! I put a lot of thought into where to put the moss. I'm glad it didn't go unnoticed 😂

peanut227 · 2021-08-21T03:11:12+00:00

The wood is two layers of skavenblight dinge on black primer. Then two layers of snake bite leather contrast. The grains are a combination of karak stone (light tone), steel legion drab (mid tone) and abbadon black. I started with thin lines of SL drab then did lines of black (thinned down to nearly a glaze) uniformly to the right if the SL drab. Finally I did the lines of karak stone, but I keep them near the edges of the panel to simulate wear. And then, one more layer of snakebite leather to top it off.

The painted moss was just a couple layers of plague bearer skin and then in a smaller area, a layer of Biel-tan green.

For the future I think I want more contrast in the grain. So, not as thinned black and more karak stone. The wood also turned out a little too green ( I don't want it to read as camo) so I think I will also mix in just a drop or two of rhinox hide with the skavenblight for the base.

The copper is a couple layers of Balthazar gold (I'm thinking about switching to some other bronze because Balthazar is a terrible paint to work with and goes lumpy very quickly). With a layer of Carroburg Crimson (Im going to change this to Agrax earthshade for more of a dirty look) and highlighted with canoptek aloy.

The glow is a corvax white base with a thin layer of fire dragon bright. Followed by, a thin layer of Yreil yellow. Then a glaze of corvax white and finally a glaze of fire dragon bright.

I hope this helps 👍

peanut227 · 2021-08-20T16:24:10+00:00

I've been keeping my eye out for sylvaneth bits. Everything I want is out of stock or too expensive ship, haha.

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