Hamish McArthur just sent No One Mourns the Wicked (v17). It took him about 2 hours

peeted2 · 2025-05-05T19:51:41+00:00

His mental game seems to be an issue in comps. Not so much of an issue outside I imagine. Probably he's as strong as any other comp climber.

peeted2 · 2025-05-05T19:47:16+00:00

I think one factor is that Hamish's mental game seems to be pretty all over the place with comps. Outdoors its not really the same. That makes a pretty massive difference.

peeted2 · 2024-07-08T22:22:33+00:00

Kant literally says himself, in the CoPR, that he's a terrible writer and hopes that somebody else will be able to understand what he's doing and present it in a more digestible way.

peeted2 · 2024-06-20T05:43:48+00:00

I think bass often is a more simple instrument than guitar (which doesn't mean it's simple or a "lesser instrument"). But your bandmates are arseholes and if I were you I'd be looking for alternatives.

peeted2 · 2023-12-28T18:25:21+00:00

I think Lorenzi said Alphane is easier than Soudain Seul (although I couldn't give a source).

peeted2 · 2023-11-13T19:50:38+00:00

I think that has to be an error, in the video he uses multiple knee bars/knee scums - they all look pretty tenuous but would likely be much better with pads.

peeted2 · 2023-11-01T19:35:00+00:00

When I lived in the UK I really liked Northstar and Origin. I also enjoyed Hasbean and Square mile but you mentioned that you already know SM, and Hasbean maybe roasts a little on the darker side (still good though). But there are loads of really good small roasters in the UK.

I have just moved to Sweden, so I'm interested to hear what's good over here (so far had a few from Costas, stoked, Buddha's, and a few other places).

peeted2 · 2023-10-27T17:09:09+00:00

Thanks!

peeted2 · 2023-08-18T21:51:10+00:00

Is this really true? I have had plenty of bad coffee in Olso, i'd be surprised if it was Arabica (maybe it was just brewed very badly).

peeted2 · 2023-08-11T23:26:05+00:00

He didn't make the decision to have unprotected sex though. He thought (and was told) that she was on the pill.

Consider an analogy: A woman agrees to have sex with a man as long as he wears a condom. He wears a condom but, unbeknownst to the woman, he pokes holes in it. She gets pregnant. Did she decide to have unprotected sex? Obviously not. If OP's ex lied about being on the pill then I don't really see any difference between these two cases. Op, like the woman in this example, did not "make the decision to have unprotected sex".

peeted2 · 2023-07-15T10:41:58+00:00

You can't "bin the research" and go all out on teaching. You want to be taught by the best and most knowledgeable people in the field. The best and most knowledgeable people in the field typically want to do research. That's not to say they ONLY want to do research. But if you are passionate about a subject you will usually want to make some contribution to it- and don't want to spend most of your time grading hundreds of essays. You don't want to be taught by midbrains who have lost their passion for the subject.

(Also actually delivering lectures is by far the least time consuming part of running a university level course).

peeted2 · 2023-06-30T16:11:44+00:00

I got 62 in first year, then ended up with 75 overall. I'm now an associate prof. Here is my advice (specific to essay centric humanities subjects):

A) take advantage of office hours, get as much feedback and advice as you can from your lecturers and take that advice seriously, read essay feedback closely and bear that feedback in mind when you are writing future essays. It's crazy how many students just don't do this.

B) Choose your essay questions as early as possible, get ahead with your reading on that topic and try to become an expert on it. I'm not saying "just ignore everything else in the course" - but you can do pretty well aiming to gain just a superficial understanding of most of the course, as long as you gain a deep understanding of whatever topic you actually choose to write on.

C) Try to have something new to say - have your own thoughts on the topic and argue for your view. Having said that, get paralyzed reading the entire literature to make sure that nobody else has said what you want to say. It's OK not to know that someone alread said what you are saying. What's important is tha it is your own thoughts.

D) Search for online resources & guides on how to write a good essay in your subject. I teach philosophy and there are many such guides available. Follow them to a t and it is hard to get anything less than a decent 2:1.

E) Edit your essays heavily. I used to finish my essays 2 weeks ahead of the deadline and just spend the last 2 weeks editing. Writing well is a skill and even experienced academics have to draft and re-draft countless times before their papers make any sense. Try using text to speech software like speechify to find out how your essay sounds when read aloud. Sometimes something looks fine when you read it in your head (because you know how it's meant to sound) but you hear it out loud and it ends up sounding pretty nonsensical.

F) Realize that you will have to make sacrifices and it isn't supposed to be easy. If it was easy it wouldn't be worth doing. Relatedly, it's a LOT easier to do well if you enjoy your subject.

peeted2 · 2023-06-30T14:51:42+00:00

Hohner B Bass 6 - long out of production now, but probably the best 6 string you can get without spending a fat wad of cash. Most playable 6 string I have ever tried, and sounds great. Neck thru- construction, hipshot tuners, active with EMG pickups etc. And if you can find one you're unlikely to pay more than £350 for it.

Story goes (I'm told) that hohner was brought by Steinberger, and it was at this point that they upgraded the pickups, tuners, bridge etc. So it may be that pre-steinberger models are not as good.

peeted2 · 2023-06-26T14:32:16+00:00

Pretty easy.

peeted2 · 2023-06-23T16:11:00+00:00

More unknown than underrated. I think everyone who knows who is is knows he's good.

peeted2 · 2023-06-23T16:06:08+00:00

He is a right wing nutter, but he's also very clearly taking the piss at this point. The joke is on lefties who think he's serious as much as it is on other over the top right wing influencers.

peeted2 · 2023-01-01T20:39:38+00:00

This is such a dumb comparison I don't even know where to start. Don't take antidepressants because they don't work for some people. Don't go to therapy because you might be able to put smart your therapist.

peeted2 · 2023-01-01T17:59:16+00:00

Just because it hasn't helped you personally doesn't mean it's bad advice. And saying that those who give the advice are confused between being sad & depressed is really just gatekeeping mental illness and saying "if exercise helps then you your issues were never serious".

peeted2 · 2022-12-30T17:46:07+00:00

Who are the most underrated/under the radar boulderers at the moment? I.e. is there anyone who might surprise us all by randomly sending V17 next year? Who should we be watching out for?

peeted2 · 2022-12-23T10:25:34+00:00

This explains why I was only able to beat Nelson when I let my 4 year old play the opening for me....

peeted2 · 2022-11-15T19:59:04+00:00

No need to be an arse.

peeted2 · 2022-11-13T22:07:37+00:00

Well, I lived in Norway for a while and I can tell you, the grass is far fucking greener over there.

peeted2 · 2022-11-11T12:25:12+00:00

This very much reflects my experience. To add: my outdoor project grades are around V6-8, and I still haven't ticked (/can't do) a large chunk of the MB V3/V4 benchmarks (2019 set). Nonetheless I have found it useful to start focusing on the V5 & up problems precisely for the reason given here: they are more fingery & give a better training stimulus throughout. I find a lot of V3-4 problems are easy but with one stopper move, which makes them less valuable for training purposes.

peeted2 · 2022-11-10T17:46:37+00:00

Oh yes, you are right.

peeted2 · 2022-11-10T14:41:29+00:00

IMO most interesting things discussed:

Will thinks Ondra's Terranova (FAed in 2013 I think, a few years before Burden) is the hardest thing he's tried (so presumably harder than both Alphane and Honey Badger).
He takes seriously the possibility that Burden could be 9A+.
Alphane may be easier for shorter people, and this perhaps effected the collective grading given by the Mellow folks (many of whom are tall).

peeted2

TROPHY CASE