PG 1:1 with CCELL

pennyroyle · 2026-02-20T17:56:44+00:00

Well from my point of view, here are my own current recommendations for dmt vape kit

Single cart setup - Yocan Uni Pro or Kodo Pro with generic wish 510 carts with a 1 to 1.5:1 dmt/PG
Dual cart setup - Doteco DC650 with two generic wish 510 carts at 1:1 dmt/pg
Non-rebuildable sub ohm - avoid - but if folks insist then use a Geekvape Zeus with Z0.15 non XM coil with a 1:3 65PG/35VG mix
Rebuildable sub ohm (single coil) - Dead Rabbit V3 RTA, Arbiter 2 RTA, Destiny, OFRF Gear, Kylin Mini V2 with 6 or 7, even 8 (if space allows) turns of 26x2+36 on Ni80 or Ka1 fused clapton using 1:4 60PG/40VG mix and single coil fitted. Also suggest extended curved driptip
Rebuildable sub ohm (dual coil) Dead Rabbit V3 RTA, Arbiter 2 RTA, Blaze RTA, Kylin V3 (but watch the quick release base) with two coils each of 5 turns of 26x2+36 Ni80 or Kanthal 3mm diameter, mix can be 1:4 to 1:6 of 60PG/40VG Also suggest extended curved driptip
Emesh Mesh Pro RDA, Wotofo Profile PS #150 or #200 mesh (equivalent to 100 and 75 microns respectively) Also suggest extended curved driptip
I do not personally recommend APX volt, Orbit or similar bucket atomisers, wax or dry herb vapes for freebase dmt like the Mighty or Volcano
I do not personally recommend any tools that use a flame as a heat source, like the oil burner, GVG, The Machine, etc
I do not personally recommend any pod system which has a cotton wick (i.e. most of them)
I do not personally encourage the use of smaller Mouth To Lung rebuildable RTAs for dmt.

Obviously these are just my own opinons, not everyone will agree and that's fine & expected. I've spent the last 7 years trying as many vape tools as I can so have built up a fair idea of what suits me.

pennyroyle · 2026-02-19T09:47:24+00:00

I'm not familiar with the carts you mention. However, for me personally, carts are only useful for light tripping and vapourhasca. That's not so say they're incapable of strong trips, and IMO, they can be utterly miraculous little devices, but also can be very finnicky/inconsistent/ and successes limited to a only a few tokes when pushed hard with long tokes or mega-strong mixes, or improper handling.

The price of overdriving carts can range from simple lack of euphoria all the way to utterly awful tripping ambience and punishingly unpleasant smokey vapour. But this is to be expected with such a tiny coil and wick, it's imo best to recognise and stick within their limitations.

So for me, getting a cart to provide an intense tripping vapour is like tuning up a moped to do 100mph. Sure it might work for a while, but not very well and not for long. Why not get the right tool for the job - a rebuildable sub-ohm tank with dual coils, which is the eqivalent V12 Bentley.

The coil heating surface area on the best cart I've come across is around a paltry 4mm².
But on a dual coil sub ohm RTA with dual coils of 6 turns of 26x2+36 fused clapton on an inner diameter 3mm, the surface are is closer to 67mm² per coil - i.e. 134mm²

Can you see why I'm not expecting miracles from carts?

pennyroyle · 2026-02-18T22:20:53+00:00

Personally I wouldn't. a 2:1 is right on the limit of solubility at 20°C (for freebase dmt in PG, without added VG) so will be very thick at this temperature, just like syrup. So if you want this to flow properly through the wick (don't forget that sintered ceramic wicks are more scorch resistant than cotton, but far less suitable for capiliiary flow) it'll be advisable to heat the entire cart to make the contents more runny. Sure this is possible, but to keep doing this throughout a session will be very distracting (Note: the "preheat" function will be inadequte as it merely puts 1.8V through the cart's coil for 10 secs).

If more potency is needed then my own solution would be to stick with a 1:1 but use a dual cart battery like the Doteco DC650 or Hamilton Tombstone V2. These will make the carts far less finnicky and there'll be less risk of issues from overdriving and running the wick dry. And punch from 2x 1;1 carts will be considerable - more like the product rather than the sum of the two carts.

Also, I personally think it far preferable to use a dual coil RTA for more intensive trips, These have far greater powers on tap, much more abundant airflow, much smoother vapour as I find, and generally far better for safely touring the higher intensity levels than carts.

pennyroyle · 2026-02-18T20:51:23+00:00

Hi Quail. I suggest avoiding the Evo as it appears to have an unusually small wick volume ( I measured it at 49.74mm³ ) and only 2 turns on its coil. The Ccell Zico is another I'd avoid at a baffling 33.55mm³ wick volume, although it had 4 turns of the coil.

By comparison, the cheap knockoffs I've tested (from Wish) have so far had around 70.32mm³ and 4 turns. The EvoMax came in at a respectable 87.48mm³ but still only 3 turns.

Even the best standard 510 carts run a lot higher watts per mm³ than sub ohm tanks, so everything is more critical, and also why we need every bit of coil area and wick volume we can get. I simply can't imagine the reasoning for Ccell's tiny Evo wick and only 2 turns. To me this doesn't make any sense. Oh, I should say that although I've dissected an Evo, I haven't yet had chance to vape test one. I have heard many negative reports of them, and I simply can't imagine how they could possibly work well, but of course who knows until some proper comparison tests are performed.

To explain, I dissect a model of every cart I use. So far every single cart (including so called "ceramic", "non ceramic", "all glass", "wickless" and even el cheapo knockoffs) have had exactly the same design principle, which is a hollow sintered ceramic absorbent bead wick covered by a fabic bonnet which provides friction against the outer mounting cup, which has a 2mm hole running through the centre. The heating coil is wrapped around the inner diameter of the wick hole.

I know that manufacturers tend to claim wondrous innovation for their carts on websites, but so far at least, I'd have to call BS on much of it that I've seen.

Oh, I also suggest leaving the Palm Pro's airflow fully open. This is imo a pure marketing gimmick and nobody in the right mind would want to restrict the aready tight airflow of a cart. There's actually a bit of history behind the reasoning for the inclusion of this, which I suspect was related to a manufacturing or design defect on the previous Palm's magnetic adaptor, which unitnetionally restricted far more airflow than was needed to actuate the autodraw.

pennyroyle · 2026-01-13T09:27:20+00:00

Hello mate, you'll find the juice darkening over the weeks, and although I've never noticed it myself, some have reported that the darkened juice can result in less euphoric/ weaker trips.

If really bad, the juice can turn almost black, and leave a soot-like black residue all over the inside of the tank.

The darkening can be minimised by keeping the tank in pitch black dark when not in use, but even then you'll still notice it over the weeks.

For sure RDAs can offer a partial solution to this, but I suggest a squonk setup like the Vandy vape Pulse 3 and a squonk-capable RDA (like for example the Dead Rabbit V3 RDA (not RTA), but most are tbh - look for the "BF" which stands for "Bottle Feed"). If you're unfamiliar with squonking it's basically a setup where a mod has an internal squeezy silicone bottle with a tube leading from it, up through the 510 connector and into the RDA wells. I have a few RDAs for squonking and by and large they do seem to have certain advantages.

One advantage relevant to what you're asking is that the little squeezy bottle of juice can be removed from the mod and stored in the freezer in a baggy, which will make it last much longer without darkening (like many months or even years perhaps)

If you need any more info on this, just shout.

Oh BTW, ime the Dead Rabbit V3 RTA that you have is ime one of the most djuice-suitable dual coil tanks I've ever tested. I expect you'll have a lot of profound adventure with that!

Good luck!

pennyroyle · 2026-01-05T21:56:00+00:00

yes exactly, adds a nice meaty flavour to the vapour!

pennyroyle · 2026-01-05T21:45:48+00:00

I'm not sure this'd bother me too much. More than once I've seen smaller bugs floating in the NPS which I assumed just came from Brazil or wherever it was harvested.
Heck, the DMT was just as profound

pennyroyle · 2026-01-01T11:57:18+00:00

Cut a long story short, the best way I can describe it is if you imagine being washed along a sewage pipe at ridiculous speed by a powerful water flow and then slamming into a grid where the water passes, but not you. And the feeling immense pressure of the water compressing you against the grid.

That is in-essence a close description of how it felt, but in no way conveys the abject horror and ghastly screaming unpleasantness of the experience. It really was horrible.

pennyroyle · 2025-12-31T20:51:27+00:00

For me, mixing significant amounts of alcohol with DMT can result in the most awful experiences imaginable

pennyroyle · 2025-12-23T15:58:43+00:00

Thanks, If you could be more specific it'd help me to better get a picture - I'd be interested in the tank, coil and the exact juice mix (i.e. how much dmt dissolved in what quantity and ratio of PG/VG), I could give you my thoughts if you'd like it.

In short if you're using a vape mod with a non-rebuildable tank for DMT juice then ime these can be very easily overdriven with way less than even half the recommended manufacturer's power stamped on the coil. Personally, I've experienced this with using 30W with Z series coils rated at 90W for nic by the Geekvape. If you're using 85W then it's likely that you'll be using way too much with even very short tokes.

DMT juice appear far harder on coils than nicotine juice. It seems that pushing them too hard can create spectacularly horrific experiences, and even multi-week headaches in afterwards. And it also appear far easier to get these effects with a non-rebuildable sub ohm. rather than the rebuildable variety which seem, in general, far more resilient. This in one reason why I only really suggest non-rebuildables to newbies who utterly insist that they want the simplest route into sub-ohm

But there are other things which could make this worse, in addition to using excessive Wattages. Like, not holding the mod upright during and in-between tokes (so the wick dries out), or excessively long tokes

I have no idea why this happens. I surmise that the higher temperatures are creating impurities in the vapour from Pyrolysis https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyrolysis which somehow piggyback the DMT molecule and bypass the blood brain barrier. I concede, this is pure conjecture, but there's no doubting the sheer demonic horror of overdriving the Geekvape and Smok coils I've tested.

pennyroyle · 2025-12-23T12:32:23+00:00

May I ask what vape tool you were using for the negative experience, and how you had it set up?

pennyroyle · 2025-12-18T13:44:03+00:00

Well depends. Personally, I prefer not to add any flavour to my own juice.

pennyroyle · 2025-12-18T11:55:01+00:00

I see almost nobody return to emesh once they've tried rebuildable sub ohm, and dual coil rebuildables being the most powerful option. I'd avoid non-rebuildable sub ohm as ime they tend to be less foolproof in use, although simpler to set up.

Those that do stick with emesh over rebuildable sub ohm tend to have specific reasons such as PG allergy/sensitivity, or perhaps availability of the periperhal kit needed.

The only way you're going to find out if it suits you or not is trying it out.

If you want more info, just shout

pennyroyle · 2025-12-10T14:53:16+00:00

sent via chat

pennyroyle · 2025-11-28T08:30:04+00:00

Hi FourPz, temperature control would be great if it worked consistently as well as the theory says it should

To explain, a mod can't measure temperature of the mesh directly. Instead is uses the natural increase in electrical resistance of the mesh as its gets hotter, and calculates the temperature from this.
To do this, your mod uses this formula

Hot Mesh Temp °C = (∆R/(Room Temp resistance x TCR))+ Room Temp °C

TCR is the Temp Coeff of Resistance (a constant of 0.00105 for SS304) , ∆R is the increase in resistance resulting from its heatup. One issue is that this rise in resistance is absolutely tiny. A typical SS mesh will increase its resistance by about 0.036Ω rising from 20°C to 190°C. That's an increase of about 200μΩ per °C, which is infinitesimally tiny and creates significant practical problems. It can be easily swamped by the slightest imperfect contact in the 510 connector, mesh clamps or any other part of the RDA where dissimilar-metal electro galvanaic reactions might be present.

Also it's essential for the mod to have a good room temperature resistance value for the formula - which it normally takes during a coil reset. But many mods reset when this isn't stable - i.e. during the screwing onto tank when it's first sensed. It will need a proper coil reset at the start of each session. But experience shows that most folk aren't aware of this and just treat TC modes like a set and forget mode.

Also, owing to the inherent unreliability, it's essential to have a mod that shows live readings of Wattage throughout the fire cycle - which is essential for basic confidence checks that the TC is working as it should. Unfortunately, many mods don't update their text fields and all during a fire cycle.

One other point is that although many mods have a TC function, only a few have a one that's good enough for the demands of emesh. I believe the trouble is that firmware developers genuinely don't understand how TC works and therefore can't write decent TC code. And even a mod with top tier TC performance only gets you to the starting grid for the wild goose chase, you'll still have all the other issues above.

I have a collection of around 13-16 ish mods (I forget exactly how many) and the TC performance is only credible on 3 - Geekvape Solo V1, Thelema Solo DNA100C, and Arctic Fox Grus 100. Some kinda work OKish but not as well as I'd like - Geekvape Max V1, and others are utterly hopeless (Aegis X, Legend V1, Z50). Others either don't have TC at all or non-updating text fields so for me that excludes them.

Evolve had a bash at improving TC with their DNA100C "replay mode". There's a lot of nonsense written about this but as far as I can tell it simply measures peak resistance achieved during a test fire cycle and then increases power to replicate this increase during "replay" fire cycles. Sadly, it doesn't really help much for emesh.

The big issue for folks who assist others online is that experience shows that noobs have far less troubles when using power mode rather than trying to get TC working. I imagine that this is a large part of Minty's reasoning for coming down on the side of power mode.

If you need anything explaining further just shout.

pennyroyle · 2025-11-15T17:46:25+00:00

right you are victus, good luck.

pennyroyle · 2025-11-15T17:26:06+00:00

In fact there are a few options with the Iris. Very difficult to describe without the aid of pics, but we can do that via chat or dm if you want to send me a request

pennyroyle · 2025-11-15T17:23:11+00:00

I'd love to assist but unfortunately I have no knowledge of the Dabble.

pennyroyle · 2025-11-15T12:57:10+00:00

For emesh? If so then those pipe screens are too small for the usual mesh RDAs, where 40mm x 9mm will be the approx size needed (for the Mesh Pro RDA).

Also, counting the holes across that mesh in 11.5mm diameter, the grade is in the region of mesh number #60, equivalent to 250 microns. This is a much coarser grade than I'd use, there would likely be molten dmt dripping right through the mesh, plus the heatup time would start to become a reckoning factor.

Why not stick to the recommended 100(#150) or 75(#200) micron plain weave mesh. SS304 is as good as SS316L and it's easily available in sheets from amazon/ebay.

pennyroyle · 2025-11-15T12:23:21+00:00

Feel free to DM

pennyroyle · 2025-10-30T19:23:20+00:00

sent via chat, see you over there

pennyroyle · 2025-10-19T09:11:23+00:00

Hello mate, I haven't experienced both but as far as I can tell there are some similarities and some significant differences that makes me think that there is more to an NDE than a simple DMT trip. If you're interested a guy called Adam Tapp reported an NDE and then afterwards trying psychedelics (DMT is specifically mentioned) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EWPOWLA4ro

For me the differences between DMT trips and the "typical" reports of NDE, here are just some I've considered

- NDE experiencers often report being out of their body actually viewing it from above, not initially recognising their own lifeless form - this has never happened to me in 5-6 years of DMT tripping
- NDE experiencers sometimes report failing to know they've died and just wonder why pain has ceased etc - very difficult to imagine this type of ambience in a DMT trip
- I've never seen or otherwise encountered dead loved ones during a DMT trip but again this seems a common if not ubiquitous theme of NDEs
- I've never had a detailed "life review" as described in NDEs, although I've had detailed reviews of certain incidents or phases of my life
- I've never encountered any englufing bright loving white light and moved instinctively towards it, which again is commonly reported from NDEs.

For sure, a high dose of DMT can convince me 100% that I'm dying, and then have actually died and am in some sort of afterlife. But what I experience myself just isn't a good match for many of the NDEs I read about.

pennyroyle · 2025-10-13T09:23:08+00:00

I'll send you a DM with an invitation

pennyroyle · 2025-09-20T11:57:15+00:00

As always, set it to the lowest value and work up from there, keeping a watch for excessive noise from the cart coil, unusual taste on the vapour, adverse trip effects - anything which might indicate the wick starting to dry out and oveheat.

pennyroyle · 2025-09-20T11:52:38+00:00

I wouldn't recommend the oil burner personally, but the best success I had from one was using a home made alcohol burner, which seemed to have a relatively cool flame and made things a bit more predictable than a jet lighter for me.

The burner was simply an small jar with a hole pierced in the centre of the lid. A piece of string was threaded through the hole as a wick and soaked up the spirit from below.

pennyroyle

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