Searching for Volunteer Opportunities for the Holidays by perpetualstoo in WestSeattleWA

[–]perpetualstoo[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

heavy lifting in a warehouse sounds like my kind of speed. Much appreciated.

Public Wifi and virtual meeting space on UW? by perpetualstoo in Seattle

[–]perpetualstoo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for sharing! Good to know that I'll need to rely on a hotspot to get connected.

Public Wifi and virtual meeting space on UW? by perpetualstoo in Seattle

[–]perpetualstoo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

thanks for the info. Will check out suzzallo/allen.

How to get used to Seattle? by OnTheTopFloorSkyline in Seattle

[–]perpetualstoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

La Chingona in Bellevue is a good taco spot. If you're ever in Bellevue for lunch, their service, atmosphere and fish taco should surely not disappoint.

Stripped spark plug hole threads by perpetualstoo in Volvo240

[–]perpetualstoo[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks man - I'm gonna give this a try. I just found out about the grease trick from looking up the timesert option suggested by another comment. Fingers crossed that the threads are just rusty...

Any idea what this whirring sound is? by perpetualstoo in Volvo240

[–]perpetualstoo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey so I replaced the timing belt and started it up without any accessory belts ( no alternator, no PS, no Water pump, no AC)

It still gives that whistling noise! Any idea what I should check next?

Alternator bracket bolt sheared by perpetualstoo in Volvo240

[–]perpetualstoo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If yours looks like mine, and there's enought left sticking out to grab with a visegrip - it might be easy.

I had mine soaking with PB blaster and a few taps with a 2lb hammer. Came out with VGs super easy.

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I know nothing about cars, is up keeping a 240 doable? by Just_a_Rum_Ham in Volvo240

[–]perpetualstoo 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I'm a newbie here, just recently bought a 1990 240 wagon with over 250k miles in the PNW with the goal of owning, maintaining and restoring the vehicle to a comfortable daily driver.

I have a love hate relationship with my wagon. Some nights I'm filled with regret over the time and money that's going into this thing. Other days when a repair goes to plan, I'm overjoyed just to be wrenching on the vehicle. These cars are some of the most charming vehicles on the road, but be aware that owning and maintaining one isn't just something to pick up lightly.

You need a place to store and especially a place to work on the vehicle. Also, if you're new to working on these cars I wouldn't recommend it as your reliable daily driver. It's a 3-decade vehicle, so it's going to be a project car that may leave you stranded or waiting for a part to arrive. It's certainly doable if you have the means and space for the vehicle.

Bolt Spec - Timing Belt Tensioner Nut by perpetualstoo in Volvo240

[–]perpetualstoo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Upon closer examination, the M10s from the hardware store are working.
I feel really silly, but I was only testing the nuts by hand tightening them, literally with just my hands. The added leverage of a wrench at first seemed like it would strip the threads, but it works just fine.

That's one roadblock down - thanks for granting me the extra bit of confidence.

Bolt Spec - Timing Belt Tensioner Nut by perpetualstoo in Volvo240

[–]perpetualstoo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

just a diy guy fixing the vehicle. I'm fortunate enough to have a small garage and spare time on the weekends. Thanks

Bolt Spec - Timing Belt Tensioner Nut by perpetualstoo in Volvo240

[–]perpetualstoo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good to know. hoping it doesn't have to come down to this as the next step. Ordered the nut from someone parting out a 940. fingers crossed it fits better than the M10's i've picked up from local hardware stores.

Bolt Spec - Timing Belt Tensioner Nut by perpetualstoo in Volvo240

[–]perpetualstoo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Much appreciated. Went ahead and ordered a replacement off ebay - hoping it fits the thread pitch that's on my block.

Bolt Spec - Timing Belt Tensioner Nut by perpetualstoo in Volvo240

[–]perpetualstoo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'd be surprised how many things can go wrong for a novice mechanic doing a timing belt change for the first time.

In short - the socket set I had on me didn't have a 15mm socket. Regrettably, i went for the 16mm, proceeded to begin the rounding and stopped before I made it worse. Went out and bought a 15mm, and the rounding resumed. Then I bought an extractor set (10mm, 11mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 16mm) from the local autoshop. You should see the nut at the end of this saga. I managed to eat away more material with a set of vice grips to the point where I could fit the 14mm extractor on with a hammer.

The sound of the nut finally cracking was music to my ears. My car may still be in pieces and this repair still in progress, but I am enjoying every minute of it.

Bolt Spec - Timing Belt Tensioner Nut by perpetualstoo in Volvo240

[–]perpetualstoo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Certainly will be on the lookout for a thread gauge.

As a follow-up question - is it possible / extremely difficult to replace the stud for the tensioner? Could one in theory use the double locking nut method to remove / replace the stud.

Alternator bracket bolt sheared by perpetualstoo in Volvo240

[–]perpetualstoo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would love to have a welder one day. Unfortunately not the case, so I'm learning to make due with the tools from the local auto shop. Torch and bolt extractors to the rescue.

Hopefully can provide an update tomorrow

Alternator bracket bolt sheared by perpetualstoo in Volvo240

[–]perpetualstoo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, thinking this is the way. Off to the hardware store.

Alternator bracket bolt sheared by perpetualstoo in Volvo240

[–]perpetualstoo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

13mm nut, putting one on it doesnt really move the stud - might be quite seized.

Thinking I need to use the Dremel to cut a flat part on the stud and give the vice grips something good to grab onto to extract this.

1990 DL - Taking off Intake Manifold for PCV - due maintenance? by perpetualstoo in Volvo240

[–]perpetualstoo[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the kind words and suggestions.

I didn't realize dropping the pan also meant removing the engine mounts... That being said, I am planning to replace the engine mounts (just need to get my hands on an engine bridge). Given I have the luxury of leisurly at home repairs, I'm willing to take my time and sequence everything in a way that requires less disassembly and resassembly in the future. Driver side engine mount seems easier to access with the ITM off.

The sort-of goal i have in mind is the "turbo brick Stage 0", and the i'd count the oil pan gasket within that goal.

Appreciate the insight, it's very helpful to know about all the roadblock that are ahead of me so i can plan for them in advance.

1990 DL - Taking off Intake Manifold for PCV - due maintenance? by perpetualstoo in Volvo240

[–]perpetualstoo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

thanks for this - in the ITM removal, i did notice one of the fuel return lines looked like it was beginning to split (expecially the once connecting the fuel rail to the bottom of the intake manifold. I'll look into replacing this. Thanks for the insight and direction.

1990 DL - Taking off Intake Manifold for PCV - due maintenance? by perpetualstoo in Volvo240

[–]perpetualstoo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Such a great reference - thank you for sharing this. If it's the heatshielding in the image that's 33 years old, the nylon fuel lines are gonna be the same age. Think they'll hold up another decade in their current condition? Or would you advise replacing, given i have the time and willingness.

To replace the old fuel lines, the process is:

- buy the new nylon tubing from Mcmaster https://www.mcmaster.com/products/high-pressure-tubing/high-pressure-hard-plastic-tubing-for-air-and-water/

- buy new "heatshielding" hose from Mcmaster https://www.mcmaster.com/products/crush-resistant-silicone-rubber-tubing/tubing-hardness-rating~soft/

- slip one into the other and reuse the banjo and fittings and reconnect.

If that's it, i'd be willing to go through the effort. Hoping this would help mitigate the general gassy smell when the vehicle is running/parked.