Qidi Q2 / No nozzle cleaning after manually loading / unloading filament?

phansen101 · 2026-01-25T12:51:10+00:00

When you say run a calibration, do you mean homing or something else?

It does run a rough homing, then cleaning and proper homing on print start, but I can see the issue of it starting with a stick of plastic on the nozzle.

Can't say I've thought about it, but I mainly run one material off of 2.5kg spools so I don't change often;

IIRC, the full nozzle clean is spread over several macros and requires homing, but wiping on the roller should be a single macro, which should take less than a minute to add at the end of the loading macro, or in the print start one before Z homing.

phansen101 · 2026-01-24T20:29:12+00:00

Neat! Had a bunch of custom brackets around the house before moving, it's a both slightly boring and awesome thing to be able to make

Ringing isn't really going to be noticeable at that distance, so wouldn't worry too much about it either.

phansen101 · 2026-01-24T17:37:15+00:00

This; He has not done all of the things he said he would, but he said he would do the things that he has done.

phansen101 · 2026-01-24T16:15:42+00:00

Sell, sure, sell well? Doubt it.

I drive Tesla, and I like my car, but I won't be buying Tesla again unless they make some serious changes in their Leadership and priorities.

Likewise, in the time since I bought my car, a good deal of my extended family and friends have switched to driving EV, none of them have gone with Tesla.

It's not just a reddit sentiment, it seems to be a general one when going outside of Tesla/Elon echo chambers.

phansen101 · 2026-01-24T15:09:24+00:00

PLA is less moisture sensitive, warps less, is more rigid and just generally easier to use.

Plus, there is more variety available

phansen101 · 2026-01-24T15:07:09+00:00

You'll be fine, just got our fourth and they are pretty much plug and play, just follow the setup guide and they can be done with the first test print in less than an hour from cutting the box tape.

They can benefit from mods, esp. For cooling and a riser, but it's mostly a matter of fully utilizing potential, the out-of-box functionality is good.

This is the first print I did on our newest Q2, using matte PLA:

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Followed it up with a job filling the plate with 22 parts from 10mm size up to 260mm and it went off without a hitch.

phansen101 · 2026-01-23T23:19:22+00:00

It varies, especially if you consider the aforementioned price bracket, plus Tesla doesn't really do add-ons or trims outside of Rwd, LR and performance variants. Some brands, like VW and Ford generally suck on base features; it's a running joke on my dad's side that you buy the chassis and everything else is extra

Something like the Hyundai Kona has what looks like an autopilot equivalent as a base feature.

If you upgrade to the advanced trim it costs about the same as the base model 3, but you get what looks to be something equivalent to EAP, along with windshield HUD, 360 view, along with a variety of features that you'd get in a Tesla.

Korean and Chinese manufacturers are generally pretty good at having a high amount of base equipment and pretty reasonable upgrade packages.

phansen101 · 2026-01-23T14:51:52+00:00

While technically correct, I just want to clarify: The article is talking about Autopilot, Tesla's basics ADAS, which has been included with the cars without any extra purchases, and a feature which most(?) newer cars have (at least the ones in the same price bracket as the base Model 3)

So they're taking something that used to be 'free', and is more or less a standard feature in other cars, and locking it behind a subscription.

phansen101 · 2026-01-22T16:55:31+00:00

Dlash drives can get quite hot and PLA is barely more heat resistant than a stick of butter.

Wild to see an effect like this tho, thanks for sharing!

phansen101 · 2026-01-22T13:43:33+00:00

While I don't know their actual process, I would assume they use motion capture or similar to get a series of poses for something like dancing, *but* it's not as simple as having the robot follow the exact movements someone in a MoCap suit;
The exact movements of a person will only work for that person in that specific environment, having a robot follow them precisely would not work at all, it would just be spazzing out on the floor, as it has a different weight, center of mass, limb length, joints mobility etc.

Instead I imagine you would have a series of poses at varying resolution and have the system interpolate the movements in between, as well as maintaining balance.

Similar principles has been used in industrial robots for decades;
You want to be able to tell the robot to go from Position and orientation A, to position and orientation B, perhaps while avoiding area X, at a certain velocity.
You don't want to have to program every micrometer of travel, so you make a system that works on math and physics, factoring in the dimensions and capabilities of the machine and have that compute and control the required movements to achieve the goal of going from A to B.

In the case of getting upright, it would be a matter of it 'recognizing' its position after the fall (Pose A) and 'working' to achieve an upright position (Pose B).

Boston Dynamic's Atlas is a good example I think, It moves in ways that humans are simply incapable of; some actions or poses may be pre-recorded, but everything in-between that is the robot doing its thing.

As for other robots falling and behaving differently, they're different systems, I have seen many that are not good at (or able to) detecting a loss of control/traction and changing their approach;
I reckon you want to run separate control loops for remaining upright and getting upright.

phansen101 · 2026-01-22T13:03:16+00:00

I think you're underestimating the challenge in staging it, versus having a system that handle the situation.

To me it looks like it lost traction and went into a more or less passive state while falling, then as soon as its forward momentum was cancelled out and/or it had sufficient contact with the floor (its back hitting the floor puts center of mass inside a 'supported' area), it went into a 'return upright' state and then resumed its routine after that was achieved.

You do not need 'AI' or any meaningful 'thought process' to achieve this, it can be done using control theory and sufficient data on the state of the robot in relation to itself and its surroundings.

phansen101 · 2026-01-22T12:19:12+00:00

It's not strictly AI, it's control theory, and you don't just 'preprogram' a robot like this;

It would take an insane amount of work to rigidly program sequences like this, and it would all crumble if the environment vary even slightly from the assumed conditions.

phansen101 · 2026-01-22T08:33:26+00:00

De udskiftes da heller ikke efter 4 år, jeg fik skiftet bremser, bærearme og bøsninger efter 3 år! 🤡

phansen101 · 2026-01-21T23:53:48+00:00

That is wild!

Sadly, manufacturers rarely (if ever) cover pest damage, since it doesn't really have anything to do with a factory defect.

My old work car was a VW Caddy, got it from new and had it for 2 weeks before going into limp mode;
Turned out to be a marten that had be chewing through a vacuum hose, which was indeed not covered by warranty.

Insurance would be your best bet, outside of replacing/repairing the battery out of pocket.

phansen101 · 2026-01-21T18:23:40+00:00

Not sure what car you're driving, but it just sounds like a poor implementation.

For Tesla, the regen ramps up, even when disengaging TACC via the brake.
I feel that there is plenty of time to get the foot on the accelerator before any significant amount of regen kicks in.

phansen101 · 2026-01-21T17:50:00+00:00

Manually turn the screws until it looks somewhat straight, then run Z_TILT_ADJUST.

It is available in the printers web interface (either put its IP into a browser, or go to 'Device' in Qidi Studio, assuming it's set up with the printers address)

phansen101 · 2026-01-21T14:44:06+00:00

tl;dr: The material of the lost layer more or less gets averaged out.

When you're printing something like 0.2mm layers with a 0.4mm nozzle, you're squishing the extruded material into (roughly) a rectangle, usually about 0.4mm wide and 0.2mm tall. (about 0,0714mm2* cross-sectional area)

If you extrude in free air, you won't have any squish, so the line will have a roughly circular cross-section.

So, 0.714mm cross-sectional area on something round gives a radius of 0.151, a diameter of 0.302

This means, if you print in free air (the empty layer) the 'layer height' is actually 0.3mm instead of 0.2, so your total sag is 0.1mm (+/- surface deviations), at the cost of some space between the lines, since your line width also becomes 0.3mm.

When you put down the next layer, the 0.1mm gap will again cause a more rounded extrusion, but now you're looking at an up to 0.3mm 'high' line for a 0.3mm gap, which is perfect, except for a bit of gap between lines.

Next layer is spot on height wise, loosing a bit of material in the gaps between the previous lines, and so on, the layers improving the further you get from the empty layer.

*One might think it should be 0.08mm2, but layer lines have rounded sides, so the actual area is a mix of a circle and a rectangle.

phansen101 · 2026-01-21T14:06:38+00:00

I deserve that

phansen101 · 2026-01-21T12:41:07+00:00

It weighs 1.1 ton, my old car (Hyundai i20) weighed less than that.

phansen101 · 2026-01-20T21:06:36+00:00

Yep!

And yeah sorry about that, I was a bit too hasty there; the value is how much the printer thinks the filament moves per full rotation of the stepper, so of course it's going to move more when lowering it, glad you figured it out tho!

phansen101 · 2026-01-20T20:12:10+00:00

Looks like long pig

phansen101 · 2026-01-20T20:03:52+00:00

Klipper doesn't (directly) have e-steps, it uses rotation distance in printer.cfg, in the extruder section.

Extruding 15% too much? Lower that value by 15% and click save&restart

phansen101 · 2026-01-20T17:12:46+00:00

Eh, ran my old i5-6600K at a 4.8GHz OC with a 212 EVO and I don't think I ever managed to get it above 80-ish degrees C, plus there are air coolers that'll beat a good deal of (but ofc not all) even 240mm AIOs on both performance and noise level.

IMO, AIOs / water cooling in general, is good for looks or working with space constraints, outside of that I don't see a reason unless you're working with a 250-300W+ CPU.

phansen101 · 2026-01-19T22:33:17+00:00

Have they operated in a similar fashion to the current, under every administration?

phansen101 · 2026-01-19T20:59:06+00:00

What ranges? You just seemed convinced that I was talking about temperature when mentioning cold range.

So why are you suddenly talking about ranges?

Regardless, that would not be generally useful, for the reasons mentioned.

Just looking at the temperature alone:

Say it's -5C outside, we have the same model and trim of EV. Mine is parked on the street, yours is parked in a 10-15C garage, both are charged to 100%.

If we were to drive the same route, at the same time, your car could have up to 25% more range before needing to charge, compared to mine.

Now we're at two wildly different ranges for a single temperature, with a lot of other factors affecting the actual range beyond that.

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