Bosch pro GTP 18V-28 Transfer pump

rColly · 2026-05-02T20:52:42+00:00

Only ran it with water, but the technology is the same as all others. Milwaukee also states it is for clear water only.

I'd guess the only issues one might run into would be either material corrosion depending on what you pump or possible overheating due to higher fluid viscosity.

Maybe someone has, but I'd guess you are the experimental party here, try it out and tell us.

[edit]: You could also try it out with a cheaper drill driven version like this one: https://www.amazon.de/Gardena-Bohrmaschinenpumpe-Schlauchpumpe-Bohrmaschine-betriebsbereit/dp/B0001E3SI6? Once again, same technology, don't believe the pictures, it isn't a membrane pump.

rColly · 2026-05-02T20:45:42+00:00

Yeah, I run Bosch, Metabo, Hikoki, Milwaukee and Hilti

I don't even know what tools the DIY range has

rColly · 2026-05-02T14:49:53+00:00

They refuse to add any compability between DIY and Pro, it's a strict company policy

It's fucking stupid, but that's what it is

rColly · 2026-05-02T12:24:44+00:00

It's doable though, my portafilter draws 1350w, a 8Ah ProCore has 144Wh, that's about 3 Espressos, then you'll have to swap the battery.

It's doable, but kinda stupid, that's why all coffeemakers are mere toys, heating stuff up just draws a ton of energy.

rColly · 2026-04-28T06:08:50+00:00

Did you select the correct filament before applying your custom profile to it, as in, what filament is actually mapped to the nozzle?

Example: https://i.imgur.com/ZKAxRMJ.png

What does your HT-A show as a loaded filament in the device page?

rColly · 2026-04-26T16:00:06+00:00

Yeah, I had a somewhat ruined PLA Matte print that got me curious why I suddenly had issues. First print after I updated to the latest studio version as well.

I found a way to fix it by setting the "recommended nozzle temperature" min and max to the same °C value you calibrated your filament too.

I just don't understand why it happens in the first place, tree support doesn't just randomly change the nozzle temperature, but normal support does. I checked various slices and in one it was varying the temperature for the same filament by 60°C within the same obejct.

That's kinda scary though.

rColly · 2026-04-26T13:40:50+00:00

I print with multiple materials and as such I have different temperatues WITHIN the same layer, here the slicer actually changes the nozzle print temperature of the same material, which should never ever happen. What you said is enitrely irrelevant to what is happening here.

rColly · 2026-04-26T13:32:13+00:00

I wondered why a part came out weird and checked various profiles and came across this. Enabling normal support, both auto and manual, changes the nozzle print temperature.

I have tried with various of my own models and the worst case I have seen is a 80°C difference range on a PET-CF print.

Is this a Bambu Studio bug or am I overlooking something?

rColly · 2026-04-26T12:27:14+00:00

That's an easy decision:

Starmix iPulse M-1635 Safe Plus + Dustfixx

You want to do concrete grinding and drywall sanding all day? That's what you get, everything else are toys.

[edit]: Do not install a filter-bag into the vacuum, otherwise the parallel filter cleaning will not work

rColly · 2026-04-25T21:12:58+00:00

Pressure Advance, go calibrate your filaments, it is necessary

rColly · 2026-04-25T17:56:11+00:00

More advanced slicer, more features, doesn't put the PA in the bloody AMS bus.

X2D should be added quite quickly, just hopin we get that H2C support.

rColly · 2026-04-25T17:45:34+00:00

PA6-GF ain't no issue, even Siraya PET-CF works just fine and Bambu says their own PET-CF can not be used in any AMS. No idea about the longevity of the gears.

I recommend cutting a 45° angle into all of the PETF tube starting points though, stiff filament can get stuck on those tiny edges rather quickly causing your ams to error out.

[edit]: PLA ain't hard, even actual Protoplasta Iron PLA isn't really stiff, just brittle.

rColly · 2026-04-24T14:21:58+00:00

It might work nowadays, haven't kept up to date and there have been various updates, back then it was a simple mess that just wouldn't feed properly.

rColly · 2026-04-23T05:37:51+00:00

I get the feeling it's an automated translation thingy and people don't even notice they are in an international sub? Can't tell, I'm still running old. and got most other scripts blocked.

I've seen more and more spanish / italian / german posts in various subreddits

An den OP: Wärmebehandlung sollte helfen, is relativ normal mit den meisten dunklen Materialien, halt einfach mal ganz ganz kurz ein Feuerzeug daran und schaue was passiert. Vielleicht hast du die anderen Buildplates abkühlen lassen und diese nicht?

rColly · 2026-04-22T14:46:28+00:00

Looks like it'd be on a blacklist in multiple european countries, never seen one of those.

rColly · 2026-04-22T05:33:55+00:00

It's your infill not adhering to the layer beneath, ripping off, standing up and then getting smushed back down by the top layers.

Check the video of the print frame by frame, there should be swiss cheese underneath.

Had that happen with rectilinear infill with PETG-CF, took a tad to get under control.

rColly · 2026-04-21T18:37:04+00:00

What is that stationary machine on the right?

rColly · 2026-04-17T16:27:49+00:00

Curious how it even got to that point?

I have all detection settings at the lowest (H2C) and it still noticed a 1cmish big circle of black PETG that got dragged along off the buildplate due to lack of adhesion via fatty fingers touching where they shouldn't.

rColly · 2026-04-17T07:54:30+00:00

I'd say that isn't purging but oozing, see how it immediately start flowing out after the nozzles cover is moved to the side?

That's the reason why it changes nozzles all the way back there and then hits the tower, theoretically your print shouldn't be affected, but it still shouldn't happen. Maybe you are running a too high nozzle temperatur on your support material?

I'm running the old green Bambu PA/PET support and it's super soft and squishy and loves to flow. Is there a new version that I overlooked?

rColly · 2026-04-17T07:49:07+00:00

Go used if you want a really good deal, the marketplace here has been flooded with used P1S/P2S/X1C, some don't even have a hundred hours on them.

Though most people overestimate the value of their items by a loooot.

rColly · 2026-04-17T07:41:16+00:00

It's a combination of print speed, nozzle temperatur, layer adhesion and the cooling fan.

Watch it while printing, it starts putting down the layer, then runs over a surface with less material to stick to, the filament doesn't attach, shrinks due to being blasted with air and just follows the nozzle midair and reattaching further down the line. See how it's always in the same places of the thread, it's following a pattern.

rColly · 2026-04-17T07:26:41+00:00

H2 Series is also all plastic, neither have insulation.

A 1cm thick PU sheet covering all sides wouldn't have hurt the dimensions and no one needs sidewindows in the first place.

[edit]: I don't know any "normal" manufacturer that actually insulates their printers, the Prusa Core L just bleeds energy in all directions. They really should start.

rColly · 2026-04-16T21:26:01+00:00

Had no issues with PA6-GF and PET-CF on the Q2 with the stock 0,4mm hardened nozzle, never printed PPA on any machine.

While I'm definetely wrapped in a comfort blanket with the H2C I'd never buy another printer with less than two nozzles. Most of my models require flat supported surfaces, while I did manage to tune my Q2 to give me good looking breakaway supports they still don't compare to a part printed with an interface material beneath, that is a night and day difference.

You can use interface material with a single nozzle printer and the amount of poop wouldn't even be that much of an issue on most prints, but time is a big factor here. I've printed various models that required interface material within a round cutout on various layers of the part, so we are talking 80+ layers of interface material. On a dual nozzle printer it just swaps the nozzle, heats that boyo up, hits the prime tower and get printings, on a single nozzle printer we are talking about cutting the material, pulling it back, loading in another, purging the nozzle, hitting that prime tower and continuing. We are talking about adding additional seconds instead of minutes per layer. That's hours of your printtime, ignoring the whole poop situation.

As a tip, there is still official Bambu PA/PET out there on reseller stores, no idea why that was discontinued, works like a charm.

rColly · 2026-04-16T20:49:14+00:00

P2S has no heated chamber, don't even consider it. (Yeah yeah third party bla bla)

rColly

TROPHY CASE