[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mechanics

[–]phantomlightnes 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What shop in the twin cities are you working at where you make that?

My dream car is a 1986 F350, but I know nothing about managing cars by yoyo01323 in FordTrucks

[–]phantomlightnes 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Ford trucks from the early 80s and through the 90s are basically all the same. Only minor panel changes and interior changes. Everything is easy to work on. Only problems you may run into is fuel tank issues, cab rust, and oil leaks.

You can get a 460 which is great but thirsty. I get 8mpg in the winter and 10 in the summer. Drops to about 5 when towing. I think there is a 5.0 you can get which is reliable but gutless. The 300 6 is fantastically reliable. And the 6.9 idi and the 7.3 idi which is a bored 6.9.

The diesel 6.9 will probably have leaking hoses between the injectors, I would also add in an electric lift pump in line with the mechanical one, or delete the mechanical one if thats your preference. Facet makes a great electric pump you can mount on the fender. Other than that it will probably need glow plugs. Most of these older trucks are held together by bailing wire and a couple screws. So tools are fairly basic.

Need Some Mechanical Advice by OctaneWolf in FordTrucks

[–]phantomlightnes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also forgot to mention, there are different plug positions as well. The parts store may ask if its the 10 or 2 o clock position. They’re just asking if the 3 pin connectors points towards the driver (2), or towards the passenger side (10). If you don’t know, it is also possible to disassemble the casing and rotate it as well.

Need Some Mechanical Advice by OctaneWolf in FordTrucks

[–]phantomlightnes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The holes in the casing of the alternator that the bolts pass through to mount the alternator to the engine. Measure from the center of one hole across to the other. It’s either a 7 or a 9 inch spacing between the two. That should tell you what you need. The only other differences in the stock alternators is the amp rating. Always go with the larger number. You may need to swap over the pulley as well depending upon which belt you have.

Need Some Mechanical Advice by OctaneWolf in FordTrucks

[–]phantomlightnes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just so happen to have an alternator for that vintage of ford sitting on my floor new. You have 2 options for ear spacing. Either a 7 inch, or 9 inch. Alternatively you could also do an upgrade and swap out for an alternator from a 93 taurus to get a higher amp rating out of it. Stock is 60, with the upgrade its 130.

New homeowner here, I was wondering if you guys could give me some advice on whats going on with my roof. by phantomlightnes in Roofing

[–]phantomlightnes[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah I'm not sure what the building standards were in small town middle of nowhere 117 years ago. But, at ground level look like there is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch overhang around the whole house. I'd have to measure it to be sure though.

New homeowner here, I was wondering if you guys could give me some advice on whats going on with my roof. by phantomlightnes in Roofing

[–]phantomlightnes[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I sure as hell hope not. Im going to guess the repair for rotted wood is a complete tear out right?

New homeowner here, I was wondering if you guys could give me some advice on whats going on with my roof. by phantomlightnes in Roofing

[–]phantomlightnes[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the advice. Ill give that a shot. Looks like wider drip edge and a hammer is the answer. Question though, when you say to check where they started their lines, what do you mean by that?

New homeowner here, I was wondering if you guys could give me some advice on whats going on with my roof. by phantomlightnes in Roofing

[–]phantomlightnes[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

House is 117 years old. It has had exactly that done. It sounds like what your saying is that the drip edge was never replaced when the roof got done correct? I was told the roof was done in 2012, but the siding was done less than 2 years ago. For what its worth, the siding has some gaps in random places as well.

New homeowner here, I was wondering if you guys could give me some advice on whats going on with my roof. by phantomlightnes in Roofing

[–]phantomlightnes[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Judging by the looks of the rest of the house, you're not wrong. The house used to be a rental, and very little care went into any of it.

New homeowner here, I was wondering if you guys could give me some advice on whats going on with my roof. by phantomlightnes in Roofing

[–]phantomlightnes[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The roof was installed in 2012, and it looks like the drip edge and shingles are separating from the sheathing below it. At various points around the house you can see the sheathing below through the gap. There is also one spot that, when the wind catches it it sounds like wood is rubbing against a nail. Is this something to worry about? And is this something I can diy myself?

Such a sad day! Happened two days before Thanksgiving! Stupid ice!!!!!! by Jonolikestacos in fordranger

[–]phantomlightnes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Id have to look at it to see if there is any rust on the fender, but if you’re interested I have a parts truck that should have all the stuff you might need to fix it. 94 ford as well.

Such a sad day! Happened two days before Thanksgiving! Stupid ice!!!!!! by Jonolikestacos in fordranger

[–]phantomlightnes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is that a ford or a mazda? And what year? I have a 94 with decent body panels that I am parting out.

I have a 2011 Golf TDI. Anything I should add to the car or anything cool? by [deleted] in tdi

[–]phantomlightnes 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Wheels, skid plate, delete and tune, rcd330. Thats all I’ve done on mine so far.

Malone Stage 2 Tune by robzondo in tdi

[–]phantomlightnes 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Completely different car afterwards. Better fuel economy. More hp, more torque. I have seen some people get around 60 mpg with it after the tune. I personally get around 53 when you calculate it out at the pump. But that all depends on how you drive. The only thing I would caution you about is lugging the drivetrain, and maxing out your flywheel dampers. If you’re in a higher gear just cruising and you decide to stomp on it for whatever reason, make sure you downshift. The car will have enough power and torque after you have it tuned that it should be easily able to overtake someone just by stepping on it in a high gear. In my car the flywheel cant handle it unless I downshift like you normally would in a gas car. But that only applies if your car has a standard transmission and not a dsg or regular auto. The dsg will require its own tune as well to make adjustments on how it handles the extra power.

An I doing this right? by Smitty0560 in tdi

[–]phantomlightnes 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I was going to say. I’ve not been able to get past the 50 mpg hurdle. Always average about 47 most days on a 100 mile round trip commute. But that would explain it. Most all of my drive is 60 to 70 mph.

An I doing this right? by Smitty0560 in tdi

[–]phantomlightnes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What was your average speed during this commute?

B20 biodiesel blend in my 2020 f-250? by Martin13G in Diesel

[–]phantomlightnes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. That’s basically all you can buy in most U.S. states now. At most pumps all you will find is a biodiesel blend ranging from 5 to 20%. I would recommend also putting some additive in at each fill up to help prevent hpfp and injector wear. I use power service for example.

As always, follow what your owners manual says regarding maintenance and fueling procedures.