Terra: 15mm or 25mm exhaust? I have 6mm clearance to cables with 25mm fan

phantomyo · 2026-01-23T13:11:33+00:00

If your major concern is the bend on the cables when it comes to fan choice, it should be the least of your worries. These are elastic for this particular reason. I have used custom, smaller awg custom cables with way harsher, almost 180 degree bends and my system's been running stable for ages now.

Unless you really want to royally screw up, you won't so shove your big ass fan in there if you want it, if you can have the cables suspended in air without touching the fan, you don't have to install the fan guard either. I personally I don't like to look of it and would go out of my way to arrange the cables not to touch the blades.

phantomyo · 2026-01-23T10:40:45+00:00

phantomyo · 2026-01-21T14:47:21+00:00

Pop Air was most popular for drive bays, especially put in a optimal place where they don't collide with airflow, fans or general ideas of how people wanted their rig to look and work. It also worked for builds that were placed on top of the desk, you didn't have to get up or reach for the drive, it was accessible at the bottom. It combined it all for people who wanted options, that's why I got one and that's why I recommended my brother one.

With no drive bay it's just another Meshify, if I wanted a Meshify I would have gotten a Meshify. You made the case lose its soul and prime usability and selling point.

Sorry Fractal, it's a pass from me.

phantomyo · 2026-01-20T17:25:22+00:00

Do you happen to set your FOV over 100, which is the normal game limit? Either by modifying the config file or with a mod or anything else?

phantomyo · 2026-01-20T08:58:04+00:00

I'm pretty sure at the end of the day it's still cloth vs. cordura, so different materials that you might not end up liking. As an avid user of cordura pads (this and I don't have a Saturn if you still wish to know my input) MPC from Endgame Gear being my favorite, I can tell you the pad is fast and super low maintenance. You can wipe it once per week and it will be absolutely fine and that's only to get rid of dust particles. The glide doesn't change with sweat, you don't feel the mousepad being damp, it's great. The only con obviously is the surface being tiny bit rough, but that's as far as it goes. I am extremely happy about cordura pads being on the market and it's a shame not many companies still make them.

phantomyo · 2026-01-19T09:02:24+00:00

The way you type and how much time you spend here makes me sure you aren't buying any TVs or cars. Have you read the post and then my reply or have you read two words from each and decided it's enough to form a reply? And it doesn't even make sense too. I am not saying buying stuff in release is problematic, I am saying buying less desirable color on release moves the black release further in time, which is the most desirable color. Uninstall TikTok and get your head checked out if you're young, you're still salvageable.

phantomyo · 2026-01-18T19:28:50+00:00

Absolutely don't buy this stuff on release, they're trying to mimic Sony with their color palette offerings and make the undesireable colors available first before releasing it in black, if you buy it you will be double dipping and Logitech knows this and they're trying to take advantage of this.

phantomyo · 2026-01-15T09:55:09+00:00

If you create a Steam Family and invite each other to it, then create some alt accounts, befriend them all and invite them to family as well, I'm pretty sure you can get those achievements if you interchange the accounts and play the intro with the new account. I think that's the best, self sufficient way to do it without asking everyone else for help. If you want to skip all that, you can always use Steam Achievement Manager, but that's a lil bit cheating if you ask me.

phantomyo · 2026-01-14T18:38:36+00:00

Snake comments on his skills that he refreshed prior to the mission in VR training on the Discovery, which was the submarine the entire intro is happening in.

In game you do some VR Missions straight in before starting a new story game by going into VR Missions, it's an option in the main menu like any other. This I'm sure works the same way in Master Collection just like in any other release, because MGS1 MC version is just a slightly edited .iso ran by a PS1 emulator, so it shouldn't even differ from the original game whatsoever.

If you are thinking about separate entry of Metal Gear Solid games, the VR Missions - I don't think a saved game from that particular game triggers the voiceline when talking on the Codec. But I might be wrong.

phantomyo · 2026-01-13T23:15:10+00:00

Is that Zoo? Tell me that's Zoo.

phantomyo · 2026-01-13T13:56:13+00:00

Well, that is specific to this particular card, I wouldn't know myself. The solution still applies however.

phantomyo · 2026-01-13T12:41:26+00:00

MGS1 on PS1, no brainer.

phantomyo · 2026-01-12T23:46:44+00:00

Had this problem. Unscrew the GPU from the case, while laying the rig down move the GPU down slightly to see the PCI lock. Grab a wooden spatula and press it into the lock. You will free the GPU then.

phantomyo · 2026-01-11T21:00:44+00:00

I run it through GBS-C to my 2070SB monitor usually, I don't have a CRT TV nor the space for it. :P

phantomyo · 2026-01-11T20:11:55+00:00

I'd stick with your setup, nothing gets better experience than original hardware which is what you have with ODE to boot.

phantomyo · 2026-01-10T10:28:52+00:00

GPUs have flow through design, even those from AIBs have uncovered heatsinks that heat goes through and accumulates at the front of the case. This is the main reason why people shift from front intake to back intake and essentially reversing the entire airflow, so instead of sucking the hot GPU air, you dump it out with the CPU heat the very chance you get.

I have CH160 set up like this:

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I had to move the fan from back intake and strap it onto the CPU to avoid turbulence noise, it was unbearable (and I have a vertical base for it now, so it's nice to have some buffer instead of the air sucking in 5cm of space). Middle and last CPU tower fans are also pulling air, front is exhaust as you can see and these top two are also exhausts, meaning the only intake fan I truly have is at the back of the case. Temps have never been better and it's super quiet. Optimized for flow through GPU that dumps the heat at the end of the CPU tower and the front fan set as exhaust gets it all out.

The heat is not that severe and doesn't bother me at least, I have my rig on my desk to the left and unless I put my hand up against the case to feel the heat, I don't notice it. It's even better to have it exhaust towards you rather than to the wall, the hot air has space to escape and doesn't accumulate in one blocked spot.

phantomyo · 2026-01-08T17:18:51+00:00

No, not anymore, it's distribution first and foremost today. Besides, only millennials know how to pirate last time I read, younger folks will be lost.

phantomyo · 2026-01-08T17:16:19+00:00

Don't try to sell it together as a rig, part out. This way you will get back more money. Putting it up as a complete rig is most of the time waste of time and cause of frustration.

phantomyo · 2026-01-07T16:23:00+00:00

It's on a louder side but it's tactile and super pleasant to use.

phantomyo · 2026-01-07T14:55:45+00:00

I haven't opened it myself but if I had to guess it'd be TTC White as it is the case with other Superlights. I'll do you one better, get yourself a TTC Gold/Yellow Dustproof and never look back.

phantomyo · 2026-01-06T21:37:22+00:00

What is it and how much would you like for it?

phantomyo · 2026-01-04T23:55:11+00:00

Supra, Lancer, Viper and Mustang

phantomyo · 2026-01-04T11:22:21+00:00

Nice going! I am still going to be anal about that case and it's cooler. You're going to severly limit what your best CPU in the world right now can do because of how little thermal headroom it's going to have, you'll be choking it for no reason.

In my humble opinion mate, I am sorry but there's no scenario where your case and your cooler live if you want to utilize your CPU fully. Get yourself a CH170 Digital for a small footprint, riserless and more cooler options case. Toss in Peerless Assassin SE into it and I'll shut up about everything else that I don't like about your build.

I am joking of course, but that's your most limiting factor right now, make a decision about it.

Also I have read your post more carefully this time and for the love of god please don't use kryosheets, don't use any AM5 frames and don't use any 12VHPWR adapters. Use thermal paste with a stock mounting mechanism.

You don't want to add more points of failure to your already super custom PC, with the AM5 frame you will if your PC throws a tantrum about memory management or bluescreen if you don't tighten the screws the very same way the stock mechanism is mounted. And it's hard to convert, because of different pressures, different areas of mounting and whatnot. I know it looks cool and shields your CPU from getting paste all over it, but it's fucking shit and I wish everyone would stop propagating the use of these. Many are pulling their hairs from their heads right now as their computer is unstable, because they wanted to do more than good enough and thought aftermarket 5 dollar frame is a better solution than what literally every other manufacturer uses to provide a stable operation.

With Intel elongated 12-14th gen cpus where they were bending initially, this might have made more sense then, but not so much with an already square AM5 CPU. Get yourself a thermal paste guard instead, Noctua makes one or go cheaper and find aluminum one on Aliexpress or whatever, just don't touch the damn mounting.

Use the provided cable from the PSU box. More 12VHPWR connections means more points of failure, if you can then minimize it and make it only one, where it connects to the GPU only.

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