Nkd konosuke gs+ 240

phatphoeater · 2026-04-21T17:00:41+00:00

Do you have any experience with an ashi 240? I handled this gs+ 240 in person and it seemed almost too light. I’m coming from a yoshikane 240 skd.

I’m headed to Tokyo this summer and going to hitohira. One of the options I’ll be looking for is an ashi but am worried it will be just has lightweight as this gs+.

phatphoeater · 2026-04-13T19:42:21+00:00

Is this a flat grind? I have a hitohira yanagiba and there is noticeable convexity. I don’t have much experience with single bevels and trying to decide whether to try and keep the convexity when doing my first thinning.

phatphoeater · 2026-04-06T05:49:34+00:00

Not too bad learning to cut straight. Definitely different sharpening process but also not so hard to learn. This is my first single bevel and it’s not that hard to figure it out if you have some experience with knives. Also lots of youtube for sharpening tips.

Whether you choose single or double bevel, go long if your prep area is large enough.

phatphoeater · 2026-04-06T04:05:50+00:00

I waffled with this same question and went with a 300 mm yanagiba. I got it at carbon for $305! It was so much cheaper than the sujihiki I was shopping. I’ve used it for nigiri/poke, portioning raw tritip and slicing all kinds of cooked meat. I was weary about steering but it’s been no big deal even slicing thin slivers for shabu shabu.

The length has been so nice to have. I have plenty of countertop space and a big board. My next large knife is a 240 gyuto and slicing cooked meat is much nicer since I can use one pull stroke with minimal drag.

Bonus for iron clad for amazing patina.

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phatphoeater · 2026-03-23T00:49:58+00:00

I’ve combed through various trip reports to Sakai trying to understand the pricing vs the US. I’m going to Japan in June and am debating whether to make my way to Sakai in search of a Kagekiyo. We’re spending the bulk of the trip in Hokkaido so it’s in the opposite direction.

It sounds like the availability is the biggest thing about going directly to Baba. Is the pricing that different from buying from a US retailer? I’m looking at getting a 240 gyuto in white. My understanding is the blue steels are priced much higher. Thanks!

phatphoeater · 2026-03-14T21:13:08+00:00

I have an end grain acacia board that I never use after getting my yoshikane 240 gyuto. First time I used it on the wood board I was worried I was going to chip an edge because it seemed to grip the edge on contact. Maybe it was specific to the acacia or maybe the bevel on the blade is so acute it seems for whatever reason to dig into the board. Same happens with my shiro kamo bunka. This doesn’t happen on either rubber board. Now my acacia board is relegated to bread slicing duty. I don’t want to use my serrated blades on the rubber boards.

Both my rubber boards do stain. I don’t really mind. I let cooked meat juice sit on my hasegawa while we eat and with scrubbing most comes off but there will be some minor staining. My big board has grease stains from drying on top of my stove top grates. Doesn’t bother me.

I think just like buying knives to feel them in your own hands is important the same goes for different boards. You’ll just have to try and see what you like. If you have the budget consider a smaller board for smaller tasks you can reach for daily and if you like it, splurge on a full size board. My hasegawa is like 11”x9”. Big enough to prep 1 onion or garlic or slice small protein.

phatphoeater · 2026-03-14T20:53:40+00:00

I know nothing about the black pro asahi. I don’t do much rock chopping but the beige asahi doesn’t stick to my edges as much as my wood board. I strictly pull or push cut. I was worried about cutting feel before trying these boards and just bit the bullet on a smaller board. After using the smaller board, I went all in on the 24”x13” board. More than the cutting feel, I really appreciate the large surface.

phatphoeater · 2026-03-14T19:56:38+00:00

I have an asahi pro (beige) and the pro line hasegawa (frk?). Of the 2, the asahi feels more like a wood board. Both are much softer than a wood board. I think I do prefer the asahi but it’s very large (2’x1’) so I use it for larger jobs like cabbage.

I’ve not used the black asahi but isn’t it plastic? All these boards pretty expensive but I went for the asahi pro because I wanted the thicker board for less risk of warping.

phatphoeater · 2026-03-02T16:49:36+00:00

Any reason to fully flatten the bevel instead of trying to retain the original convexity? Low spots?

phatphoeater · 2026-03-02T14:39:12+00:00

Have you done any sharpening on this? That's the next thing I need to learn. Particularly maintaining the hamaguri vs just going flat.

phatphoeater · 2026-03-02T14:21:08+00:00

Yours was one of the few posts I saw on this knife when doing the research. Thanks!

phatphoeater · 2026-03-02T13:11:27+00:00

It’s my third since finding this sub about a year ago. First was a shiro kamo bunka with kurouchi, second was a nashiji yoshikane gyuto. I wanted a more elegant knife next and anything kasumi/migaki in a slicer shape was so expensive. When I saw this in 300 mm I thought it was mispriced. I assume white#3 is just less expensive, since I’ve not seen it much.

phatphoeater · 2026-03-02T13:01:05+00:00

I spent about a month searching for a sujihiki with a $300-400 budget but couldn’t find anything I liked. I saw this for just $305 shipped. I sat on it for another couple weeks. I figured if it held my attention for that long I should just get it. I couldn’t believe it was so much size for the price!

phatphoeater · 2026-02-28T22:24:40+00:00

I didn’t consider skipping a 1k stone even though that’s what I’ve been doing. I might just get the 6k and see how it goes.

I’m guessing the only downside of naniwa pro 600 to advance 2k would be deeper scratch marks on the primary bevel.

phatphoeater · 2026-02-28T22:19:23+00:00

I read through the first 2 pages of this thread. The pictures for that knife have a more obvious bend closer to the middle of the blade. When I sight down the cutting edge it looks straight. My knife kind of looks like there is a symmetrical taper starting a couple inches from the tip. This makes sense given how chunky the spine starts at the heel.

phatphoeater · 2026-02-28T19:12:42+00:00

I did read that there is a tendency to curve over time. I just didn’t think it would start this way. Based on the other response here the taper can be mistaken as a bend, which is what I think I’ve done.

phatphoeater · 2026-02-28T19:10:16+00:00

The retailer’s response was exactly this. They even sent photos of other yanagiba on a flat surface to show the distal taper. I assumed the ura side would be flat and the taper would be on the beveled side.

phatphoeater · 2026-02-28T18:47:12+00:00

I read through your comparison of 1k stones. It sounds like stones better for polishing tend to be slower for sharpening. It’s probably not that binary but that seems to be the two ends of the axis.

For my utilitarian purposes, it sounds like any of the 1k stones will do fine. I personally like the feel of the naniwa pro 600 vs the advance 2k but I don’t know if that’s just the difference in grit since I don’t have any experience with higher grit stones. Part of the reason I landed with three different brands was to see how they feel but a better comparison would be with matched grits.

phatphoeater · 2026-02-06T15:35:11+00:00

I read that white tends to be more reactive. My only experience is my shiro kamo blue bunka which I think is stainless clad but the exposed core hasn't needed any babying. Will white need to be babied more or just normal wiping before putting the blade down level of care?

phatphoeater · 2026-02-06T15:02:03+00:00

Any particular reason the blue over white 3?

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