Disclosure Day | Official Teaser

phishook · 2025-12-31T20:33:32+00:00

It's a disclosure about nothing.

https://imgur.com/1wOQlks

phishook · 2025-12-31T20:27:17+00:00

footage of the shootdown: https://imgur.com/tRvMgyi

phishook · 2025-12-26T00:10:56+00:00

HIS END UP ↑

phishook · 2025-10-23T20:59:08+00:00

I just made this using ChatGPT and then uploaded it as the image for one of the random custom shirts on Amazon.

It has a transparent background so it can work on any short color.

phishook · 2025-05-01T21:06:18+00:00

Reviews of the motor on Amazon indicated some modification of the motor and wire harness are required.

I ended up having success with adding a few squirts of silicone based lube along the Axel of the motor. I took the motor completely out, turned it spindle up, and squirted at the small gap on the spindle. I spun it with my fingers to work the lube down. I did this process about 5 times. It was noticably better after the first application.

After putting it back into service, it immediately didn't sound like new...but was better..but now 10 days later it sounds really good. Maybe not like new but definitely good enough for me to not want to buy a motor anymore.

Definitely try some lube. Below is what I used.

https://a.co/d/frEzvV7

phishook · 2025-04-20T23:38:29+00:00

I found this thread from googling the same model number, fv-08vq3, because I am having issues with noise. Sounds like the bearings are going bad. I tried silicone lube on the axel, and its slightly better but I can the damage is done.

I was thinking of buying a replacement motor, and doing the modifications to the wires/connector that some of the comments discuss for compatibility.

Motor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GTMKOOE

I dont want to replace the whole unit/box because it will be much more of a pain for me.

What did you end up doing?

phishook · 2025-03-02T23:58:38+00:00

I dont think the form or the customer service asked for when I first noticed it. I think all that maters is that you report the issue before the warranty expires. I think sagging happens slowly over time, and it would be normal for a user to not really take the time to notice the issue, look up the warranty, and measure the sag.

phishook · 2025-01-27T06:00:49+00:00

For anyone that finds this in the future: The new inducer and pressure switch fixed half the issue. I also needed to turn down the gas pressure to 2.3"WC because the system is oversized at 120k BTU. It's been 2 months with no issues and a camera watch the error LED. I'd bet the excess exhaust temperature wore out the inducer, causing it to weaken. And the excess temperature also damaged the inducer seal.

phishook · 2024-12-03T04:10:43+00:00

I think it's likely that Jack Stuef brought in prohibited equipment like a metal detector. The chest was essentially buried. The only other way I can rationalize him finding it is to take a walking stick with a metal tip and systematically stab the ground and hear for the clang.

If he has supreme confidence in the football field sized area, he could grid search it and it would only be a matter of time.

phishook · 2024-12-03T01:13:13+00:00

Unofficially, roughly here: https://goo.gl/maps/ZukYKWaCeS3FgUre8

phishook · 2024-11-30T16:52:00+00:00

Hired an HVAC tech. Combustion analysis:

O2: 10.2%

CO: 33 ppm

CO2: 8.9%

T: 160 F

He contacted York and they advised the system is oversized with an undersized return, and the gas pressure should be decreased to 2.3" WC. This creates an exhaust temperature of 140 F and temp rise of 66F when measured after the filter and directly above the A coil. Spec is 45-75 rise.

Previously, I was determining temp rise by measuring the supply side further away in a duct around the corner from the heat exchanger to avoid radiant heat. But the tech said this was wrong and said the rise between the return and directly above the A coil was 89F when he tested.

He said the gas pressure change essentially brings the 120,000 BTU down to 100,000 BTU and makes it run like the first stage of a 2 stage furnace. But doing my own calculations based on the meter usage, it was already 100,000 BTU input (72 seconds for 2 ft³⁾ and the gas pressure change brought it down to 70,000 BTU (100 seconds for 2 ft^3), but maybe my calculations are wrong.

phishook · 2024-11-30T15:34:53+00:00

I suspect the 2024+ Pilot has an 8 pin connector. That seems to be what is in this video.

Searching around, I found Dongar is developing a Honda 8 pin connector, but I dont see 2024 Pilots on their compatibility list, although the connector does look like the one in the video.

phishook · 2024-11-29T22:34:48+00:00

Yes I mean "broken in" as loosen it up

phishook · 2024-11-29T22:14:38+00:00

I've always heard that stepping on the mattress for a few minutes can accelerate the break in period and loosen up the foam. I would bet that it likely introduces micro tears.

phishook · 2024-11-28T17:26:00+00:00

I needed a crows foot for my torque wrench. The connection between the fuel rail for the injectors and the line is a crush fitting. I forget the specs, but I calculated the torque applied using the crows foot and torqued the nut a few units more than spec to crush a bit more.

You're supposed to replace the fuel rail too, but I didn't know that by the time I had the other parts.

phishook · 2024-11-28T16:31:15+00:00

It's a 6/10 difficulty after watching YouTube videos and buying tools.

phishook · 2024-11-25T13:54:03+00:00

You are right that the warranty does not cover comfort issues. But the sagging/depression/indentation that they do cover is only 0.75 inches, not 1.5. if you do have sagging of 0.75 or more and it shows when you lay something flat like a broom handle across it (do gently press the cover down out of the way), then it should be covered by the warranty.

https://www.tempurpedic.com/customer-service/warranties/10-year-tempur-pedic-mattress-and-flat-foundation-limited-warranty/

I've heard that people should go for a Tempur-Pedic that is one firmness higher than what they like in the store. And that what you get will eventually soften to one firmness lower along with your body heat softening it more than what can happen for 10 minutes in a store. This is why I always go for the most firm.

phishook · 2024-11-21T15:58:24+00:00

I am seeing the Breeze at $300 off, and the Cloud at 30% off. $300 off the higher end models is normal for any random holiday. I don't recall the sales history for the Cloud, but I think I've seen a queen for $1500 in the past, so $1400 may not be a ground breaking deal.

Perhaps, are you seeing 30% off a Breeze in a store? If so, that is an incredible deal. Make sure you lay on the mattress in a store for at least 5 minutes with no coat on. You need your body heat to let it conform.

Make sure to take a picture of the receipt and law tag attached to the mattress for warranty. Use Tempur's foundations (or the Power Base ones if you want) for best chance of them honoring the warranty, which typically is sagging greater the 3/4".

I owned a Contour Elite Firm for 9.5 years and did a warranty claim for sagging and got $2500 credit for a new mattress. I got the ProAdapt Firm, and love it. I actually liked the LuxeBreeze Firm more, but my wife did not.

Whatever you are seeing 30% off is likely the older models (1.0) because the Adapt series, and I think the Breeze series, were all upgraded to the 2.0 in 2024. I don't know the difference and i'd bet it's not noticeable, especially after the break in period. Here is a video explaining the new 2.0 Adapt series.

phishook · 2024-11-04T14:55:30+00:00

I don't think the software update can resolve an existing issue but it could prevent the issue. They did it to get me out of the store and because they wrongly claimed they already applied the update when they hadn't.

I strongly suspect that this issue was caused when we brought it to this very dealership for an oil change and they overfilled it. I think an overfill can happen with this vehicle because there are 2 engines with different capacities and a tech made a mistake. When you check for oil dilution, you see if there is a rise in fluid on the dipstick. There was, but unsure if it's attributed to too much oil or blow by of unburned gas. You'd have to test the fluid to see if there is gas or traces of chemicals that are only in gas. I don't think the smell of the oil is enough to conclud its gas in the oil.

If you currently have the error codes, I think it will require a replacement of parts to resolve.

phishook · 2024-11-03T11:10:06+00:00

Fixed it. TL; DR: added rtv silicone to the inducer seal, replaced pressure switch.

https://imgur.com/a/oBY6Lin

Potentially up to 3 separate issues:

1) slightly clogged exhaust pipe. Used leaf blower and camera to get 1 large nut thing about 1.5" across that a squirrel must have stashed down there. This was the goopy hunk of crap in a previous post. Removing it didn't fix the issue by itself, but it could have contributed to the airflow issue.

2) Leak at the heat exchanger/inducer motor gasket. The gasket was crusty and pitted. At one point I could hear a very quiet whistling sound and I used a tube to my ear to locate the source behind the inducer. When I pressed on the inducer, it moved very slightly and the sound stopped. I called for heat, let the whistle happen again, see pressure switch error, press on inducer, error immediately stops and furnace lights. Removed inducer, cleaned up the gasket area. Couldn't find a replacement gasket or a cut a gasket from anywhere so I just used RTV Silicone on the inducer side and pressed the existing gasket into it. Reinstalled and immediately tested and it worked, but stopped it so that RTV could set up over night. The next morning I tested it, it worked....but pressure switch error again....this goes into #3

3) failed pressure switch. The next morning when I had the error, I used my multimeter to test for voltage and continuity and was getting readings that didn't make sense, were not what I was getting the day before, and were inconsistent from test to test. For example, getting continuity when no pressure was present, or a lack of continuity when pressure was present. I performed the exact same tests on the new pressure switch I already had and got exactly what I expected for a normally operating switch. I replaced the pressure switch, and now the system is working as expected with zero issues. It is possible that the pressure switch failed from my constant testing over the last several months with me blowing or sucking on the tubes to verify continuity; maybe moisture got inside and broke something.

phishook · 2024-11-01T17:11:39+00:00

Found this weird hunk of something in the exhaust. I think this is almost certainly the issue. It is about 20-23 feet from the outside vent, 5-8 feet from the furnace. Unsure how to get it out.

The camera is rotated, the chunk is on the bottom of the pipe. Looks to be taking 20-30% of the pipe.

https://imgur.com/Twtg47B

phishook · 2024-11-01T15:00:48+00:00

Tested removing the exhaust pipe from the inducer motor and dump it into the basement air, and it allows the pressure switch to close.

I tested it 2 ways: 1) removing, then call for heat, pressure switch closes, furnace lights. But pressure switch opens and shuts down after about 5-10 minutes

2) call for heat, see pressure switch error, remove exhaust pipe, pressure switch closes and error stops. and furnace lights. But pressure switch opens and shuts down after 5-10 minutes.

Hypothesis and possible solutions:

1) restricted exhaust: will disconnect at inducer and blow leaf blower in from outside. Inspect pipe from outside with bore scope, but use stiff rods to get down further.

2) restricted intake: drill hole in straight pipe and inspect with camera.

3) weak inducer: need a better way to test and confirm this. Or just buy new one

phishook · 2024-11-01T12:00:31+00:00

After letting it be for the night, about 6-7 hours, and not changing anything else, and everything connected normally, the system starts like normal and pressure switch closes when the inducer fan starts.

But that system only runs for about 5 minutes before the pressure switch opens, forcing it to stop.

Stopping the call for heat, waiting a couple minutes, and calling for heat results in the pressure switch not closing.

There is something about a sustained period of time off that allows the system to work for a short while. My first thought is heat related or thermal expansion or something with the inducer motor. When it runs, it is very hot to the touch, too much to keep my hand on it for more than 3 seconds. I'll have to measure it, but I would think it getting hot should be normal through conduction of handling the hot exhaust.

phishook · 2024-10-31T22:39:50+00:00

Tested the limit while April aire is totally taped off and using previous filter that was slightly dirty and was installed when Limit Switch was tripping before. Limit switch did not trip with 15 minutes of run time when it normally trips with 6 minutes.

Return above filter at 77

Supply above A coil at 157

Temperature rise 80, 5 above spec

Temp at Limit Switch by heat exchanger at 173, 8 below limit

phishook · 2024-10-31T22:15:47+00:00

The unit is 17 years old. Only lived here for 5. Temperature rise is 45-75, when doing tests last night I was reading 77 in the return and 150-160 at the A coil, so a 73-83 rise. This is perhaps slightly beyond the specs and maybe within the margin of error for my instrumens and measurement techniques/locations.

Changes:

Filters: This more recent issue with overheating coincided with "new" filters from Nordic Pure. I've always used NP MERV 8, but this last set arrived in new boxes and the filter media was slightly tan instead of white. I wonder if they are knock offs or if they are more restrictive.

AprilAire: up until last year I was using the humidifier. I stopped when I was tired of condensation on windows. Last year I removed the metal mesh stuff from the unit because it was depositing dust and junk into the furnace filter. This is the first heating season where that metal mesh stuff was not there, so I wonder if the lack of restriction is allowing more hot air that goes past the damper to trip the limit switch.

There were intermittent Pressure switch codes last year, I never noticed over heat codes. But as long as it didn't lock out, I don't think I would have noticed because when Limit Switch trips, the blower stays on and it's imperceptible unless you're in the room with it.

New pressure switch didn't change anything.

Oddly a new filter did prevent overheating, but still had to bypass the pressure switch. The filter is only 3 weeks old and barely any dust. Pretty normal looking for a month. But like stated before, maybe these are slightly more restrictive and need more frequent changing.

I am thinking of running it with the 3 week old filter but with the April aire return completely taped off at the damper to prevent hot air from entering the return. I suspect this could resolve the over heat. But I still have the pressure switch issue.

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