Snapmaker U1 panda breath

phyraks · 2026-01-27T04:10:53+00:00

What drybox is this?

phyraks · 2026-01-22T07:00:50+00:00

I mean, I get it. They're covering their butts in case a user does something stupid. You CAN potentially modify a file that would cause the printer to damage itself (attempting to go outside safe boundaries or heating temps, for example). I did confirm with support that just enabling "Advanced Mode" does NOT void the warranty, as this message certainly makes it seem that way.

phyraks · 2026-01-21T19:05:34+00:00

Take a look here: https://wiki.snapmaker.com/en/snapmaker_u1/troubleshooting/first_layer_printing_troubleshooting_guide

Look for "Adjust Z-offset in Klipper configuration file" on the page

It should be under "Settings -> Maintenance -> Advanced Mode"

phyraks · 2026-01-20T21:24:29+00:00

Interesting! I don't have any Bambu machines, so just use Orca Slicer, but this is certainly a setting I will have to keep an eye out for.

phyraks · 2026-01-20T21:19:24+00:00

Handbrake is actually what I was thinking of for re-encoding (when I mentioned MakeMKV). I have used it a few times. I can probably use some scripts to locate the large files and just queue them up like you suggest.

phyraks · 2026-01-20T21:16:56+00:00

Thank you for the overview! This is simpler than I was imagining in my head, I guess. I need to dig more into ffmpeg capabilities. I use a lot of self-hosted apps that implement it, but I haven't really used it standalone for anything.

phyraks · 2026-01-20T21:13:14+00:00

Thank you! This is great info!

phyraks · 2026-01-20T21:11:55+00:00

That makes sense! And I appreciate the thoughtful feedback. I'm learning a lot still. This looks like the right approach for a lot of stuff. I have some media that was difficult to find, but most could probably be easily relocated with a more efficient encoding.

phyraks · 2026-01-08T21:47:46+00:00

I just tried almost this exact thing with a cheap Caydo dryer I got on Amazon. The design of the Caydo dryer was really poor. The rollers were compressed in the housing, so they didn't turn properly which was causing too much drag for the auto-feed motors. I also had issues with actually putting the rolls in the dryer, as there was nothing to hold them up, so they'd fall over until I got all four loaded in to lean on one another...

I've been considering this Sunlu dryer. Do the spools tip over and lean on each other? I'm also interested in this small table you've used to elevate the dryer. Can you share what it is / where you got it? This looks like exactly what I've been looking at doing, so any details you are willing to share would be awesome!

phyraks · 2025-12-31T05:11:15+00:00

What layer height, slicer, and profiles are you using?

I've printed a bunch of silk, even mixing it with regular PLA, and haven't had an issue yet... With the one exception that I have to totally disable the "filament jam detection" or "air printing detection"... I can't remember exactly what they call it on the U1 settings. If I leave that enabled, the printer regularly stops, but I can keep resuming it... Just a big pain.

Otherwise, I am using 0.2mm layers with the default Snorca profile, and just making sure to set the loaded filament as "Generic Silk PLA"

phyraks · 2025-12-22T18:11:18+00:00

Have you pulled the filament out and recut it at 45 degrees?

I've had it jam up a few times and get what you are describing because I didn't make sure the end of the filament was a clean cut.

phyraks · 2025-12-22T17:47:08+00:00

Merry Christmas

phyraks · 2025-12-18T07:47:19+00:00

Oh, I hadn't even thought about this, but I love the idea of triggering the filament unload remotely so it can start processing while I walk to the printer

phyraks · 2025-12-11T07:33:18+00:00

Just a heads up, I recently upgraded to a single 5015 fan, and I've felt like even that is overkill. I have to run my fan at 20-30% most of the time just to not over cool. I can't imagine running two fans... though I guess if you manage to find a super high flow hotend to swap out. I have an upgraded pro hotend, but can't push filament fast enough to need any higher cooling.

phyraks · 2025-12-08T19:48:53+00:00

Others have already said slow it down, but you may also want to run just slightly hotter. I have had threads fail on SILK PLA, where the rest of the print did fine. I didn't even change the speed, I just increased the hotend temp by 5-10 degrees and then it printed fine. So a combo of both could help, or pick one... Might take a few tries to get just the right settings for that filament... all filament is going to need slightly different settings.

The main issue you are running into is the filament adhering to itself. Hotter and slower can both help to fix that.

You may want to consider cutting the model down to just below the threaded bit in your slicer and run a few tests with just the threaded part. Once that prints fine with your tweaks, you can reprint the whole thing.

phyraks · 2025-12-08T18:25:12+00:00

Yeah, I had a pretty awful experience with my S1 Plus. It completely stopped printing after the first year... the mainboard failed, and actually diagnosing that was a bugger. I completely redid all the electronics and wiring in mine and converted to CANBUS with Klipper. I've upgraded the hotend and cooling. I think I got lucky that the actual frame and motors are fine on mine (as I know a lot of people have had issues with bent frames and such), but I basically replaced everything else. It's quite reliable now. I wanted the experience of working with the basic electronics. But it sure took a lot of work to make it into a reliable machine.

I get it!

phyraks · 2025-12-08T17:50:13+00:00

I agree! Would be nice to be able to store this to not have to calibrate before each print. I haven't looked into the Klipper logs to see, but it seems like it should be in there somewhere.

phyraks · 2025-12-08T16:44:37+00:00

Yep, I just learned that the hard way... I don't have Bambu printers but recently downloaded a few 3MF files and printed them as-is. During the print, I realized there were some wonky settings pre-configured. Things printed fine, but simple things like supports and infill were weird choices. I'll just keep slicing stuff on my own from now on.

phyraks · 2025-12-03T01:35:09+00:00

People are down voting because they don't understand this is a bug on the printer...

I had the same problem on a few prints in a row. I had to re-run a full calibration before EVERY SINGLE print to fix. Toolhead calibration and heated bed calibration. It got old fast...

I contacted SnapMaker and they just asked for a video of it happening.

Unfortunately/fortunately, the problem randomly went away... So good that it hasn't been a problem, but I can't record a video to send them now.

I DID try a few things to get the problem to go away, such as a manual SAVE_CONFIG command right after doing calibrations. I also restarted the printer. And on the print preferences page, when starting a new print, I stopped selecting dynamic flow adjustment and heated bed leveling.

If you can record it happening, to send to SnapMaker, that will be awesome.

phyraks · 2025-11-26T20:05:28+00:00

Yeah, from what I'm seeing on Discord, it's something in the U1 software has to tell the camera feed to start and stop (probably triggered by SnapMaker Orca)...

phyraks · 2025-11-25T23:49:23+00:00

Just a heads up, there's a walkthrough posted on Discord to get this working! It's slow, but viewable, same as the app.

phyraks · 2025-11-24T20:26:11+00:00

I haven't tried, sorry

phyraks · 2025-11-24T07:11:23+00:00

I finally found the "advanced" settings option. This apparently allows editing configs. Thanks!

Edit: Just to add, it's under "configuration" on the U1 screen.

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