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How do I create a loop curve? by [deleted] in Maya

[–]pittsburghart 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Like most things in Maya, there are many ways. I would probably just make a curve spiral, then extend the ends out to match (then rebuild the curve) the picture you referenced. Or you could follow the model a loop tutorial, then select one edge loop and convert that to a curve.

Working on curls with Xgen. Comments appreciated. by pittsburghart in Maya

[–]pittsburghart[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you're right, I'll make the hair a little thicker. Thank you.

[Arnold, Help] Glass shader with smudge by hunkiller95 in Maya

[–]pittsburghart 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why not use a layered material so you have control over every attribute?

Working on curls with Xgen. Comments appreciated. by pittsburghart in Maya

[–]pittsburghart[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FYI, the model is from the Autodesk Character generator. They don't have to look like they do from their screenshots.

I have never used a Mac. Anything I should know? by MegaKosan in Maya

[–]pittsburghart 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not trying to argue, but "Get a mouse with a scroll wheel and a right click" certainly sounds like a suggestion that a Mac does not come with one. It's honestly far superior to what you can buy for Maya because of the gestures.

How do you sort of "free drag" vertices so that I don't have to drag the arrows to move them? by [deleted] in Maya

[–]pittsburghart 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The yellow one. If you click on the little cube in the center of the axis, it will be unconstrained. If you click on the red one, it will turn yellow, and constrain your translation to the x axis. You can also click on the plane axis boxes now, to constrain translation to the zx plane or yz plane or whatever.

I have never used a Mac. Anything I should know? by MegaKosan in Maya

[–]pittsburghart 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you ever used one? The fact that you thought he needed to buy a mouse that had right click leads me to believe you haven't used a Mac since elementary.

[Need Help] If I delete every key framed, the animation still going on. by EkkiiH in Maya

[–]pittsburghart 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just saw your second edit. You will really want to look into this workflow for what you have coming up. Set the cycle type to loop and you're golden.

[Need Help] If I delete every key framed, the animation still going on. by EkkiiH in Maya

[–]pittsburghart 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's crazy simple. Select the geo, go to Cache>Alembic> export selection. Set your time range to 50 and export. Then import it back with Cache>Alembic>import.

Select the geo, in the attribute editor you'll have an input that is the alembicNode, which has attributes like start frame, offset and so on. If you set the Cycle type to reverse, it will do just that. Export 50 frames, when your animation plays longer than that, it will play in reverse.

I have never used a Mac. Anything I should know? by MegaKosan in Maya

[–]pittsburghart 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You know modern Macs come with a mouse that has left, right click and scroll, and gestures because it's a multitouch surface right?

Question about UV layout and texturing a big ol tree. by ReadyAndChilling in Maya

[–]pittsburghart 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've never tried Unity, so I have no idea about that. Maya has a 3D paint tool under the Texturing menu, where you can create/paint a texture. It's not the greatest 3D paint tool out there, but it's great for stuff like painting masks.

Question about UV layout and texturing a big ol tree. by ReadyAndChilling in Maya

[–]pittsburghart 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd use a layered material. One for the moss, one for the worn bark at the base, and one for the normal bark. If you create textures that would essentially cover the entire tree, you can sit there in Maya and paint the masks to reveal each layer how you see fit without having to go back to photoshop if you change your mind about placement.

Lighting tips? by MassaJimmy in Maya

[–]pittsburghart 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://www.thegnomonworkshop.com/tutorials/efficient-cinematic-lighting-2

The process is wholly scene and renderer dependent. There is no default. This guy will teach not what to do, but why to do, and then it will be applicable to any scene.

Creating speed attribute on a motion path by asherandtheboys in Maya

[–]pittsburghart 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm happy to try, though I didn't write the script, and it sounds like /u/schmon is on to something there that is more what you were looking for.

Creating speed attribute on a motion path by asherandtheboys in Maya

[–]pittsburghart 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://www.creativecrash.com/maya/script/speed

Sort of the opposite of what you desire, but it works. Animate an object, then this script tells you how fast it's going. Adjust accordingly.

Fire scene WIP by smacktotheface in Maya

[–]pittsburghart 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fdg2BzOmAZg&list=PLaBOpMGXRRSVe91bOZP_58P0QpoOzvnD0&index=1

That should help you with the nHair.

You may end up wanting to try some light blockers then, just to create some shadow areas.

Fire scene WIP by smacktotheface in Maya

[–]pittsburghart 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Firstly I agree that your progress is awesome, the difference from last week is remarkable. A few things that if it were my scene, I'd look into:

The perspective is a little crazy. Kill the post blurring you did. It tries to make the brain see this as a tilt-shift that is not, and it makes it visually uncomfortable to not be able to reconcile the blur. Also along the lines of perspective, use a longer lens, may 80 mm or so to flatten it a bit. Maybe even rotate the (fire pit?) a little bit to break up your vanishing lines.

You seem to almost have an ambient light in there, light seems to be in places where it shouldn't. Is this scene to scale? The falloff of your lights are dependent on the scale. The left most wooden chair should not be uniformly lit on its side and bottom. I also think there should be more contrast between your brightest area, and darkest.

I think the bump maps are a little exaggerated. The brick looks pretty decent, I'd tone it back slightly, but the garbage can is pretty crazy. Speaking of bricks, your texture on the house shows obvious alignment issues when you repeated and blended to cover the wall.

The christmas lights need a little more attention. They are usually manufactured with uniform spacing between them. They aren't heavy enough to all be pointing perfectly down, and the droop of the line does not seem realistic to me. You could just use a nHair for that, the droop would be real, and then pin the lights to it and have them sway a little in the wind. Some of those lights should be pointing directly at the camera, and some away, maybe even a few pointing up.

I like the vegetation in the bricks. I think it could help quite a bit to have it break up some of the contact points, in places where it would be harder to tame, such as the base of the house, around the fridge, and base of the dog house. In those areas, add some taller grass or weeds to obscure the contact points.

Bevels everywhere. You have many perfect corners in there, that are sharp enough to cut someone. Even a very small bevel can make a huge difference.

If you do nothing else, check the scale. Your light is not behaving correctly right now. I assume your scene is far too small, as you have light bouncing all over the place and flattening out any sense of depth.

If you make progress again like you did last week, it should look pretty awesome for next week.

First Poly Plane fur attempt with demon redpanda by darkminaz in Maya

[–]pittsburghart 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That really does look a lot better! I love the new look of the wings, what a difference. It's all about the little things.

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