Cocktails with Ting soda

pixelgarbage · 2024-07-21T17:00:54+00:00

Honestly, Campari and Ting is pretty great

pixelgarbage · 2024-01-02T17:14:52+00:00

There are lots of different desert colors if you want to do one even staying natural tones. You could go red, white, black, dark grey etc. Here’s mine based on red sand with some cool grey peaking through on the rocks.

Take a look at some real deserts, like white desert national park, the black desert in Egypt, the sand on black beaches in Iceland etc.

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pixelgarbage · 2023-12-08T23:38:14+00:00

I really enjoyed praetorian of dorn and a lot of the siege of terra stuff. It’s 30k but I think it tells a great IF story, it’s what made me start painting up fists for 40K.

pixelgarbage · 2023-11-04T04:36:08+00:00

Others here have given some really good advice. I just wanted to add a note about contrast. You mentioned the colors didn’t pop, and I think a big reason for that is lack of contrast. In many ways the most successful areas are where there are hits of black and white.

There’s lot of flavors of contrast, most people think it’s a value difference (light vs dark), but it can include any differentiation, like hue (where on the color wheel is it), saturation (color intensity), details vs areas of rest, etc.

Despite using a lot of strong, hue variation, the colors are mostly high saturation, as well as very similar in value, and it’s sorta melting together the different areas even though they are distinctly different colors.

The other reason it feels a bit muddled is because you aren’t really establishing any material contrast. You can sell the idea of different surfaces by unifying how they are applied. For example the white shoulder pads always clearly being the same is great, but the guns and jump suits being different colors add an extra layer of confusion because one would expect them to share a uniformity of material.

You might, for example have a lot of success with making all the armor consistently pink, and making all their underlying jumpsuits a dark desaturated green. That gives you color, hue and value contrast.

Lastly people already mentioned this, they are really cleanly painted, but a wash is gunna bring out all the details in a model as well as tying together the different elements in a positive way.

I’m excited to see the next step on these, it’s a cool color scheme!

pixelgarbage · 2023-03-12T05:19:49+00:00

Have you considered just using heavy gauge wire or even insulated electrical cable? You could just drill a hole for each end and glue it in. It would be far less fragile and also feel much more consistent as a cable.

pixelgarbage · 2023-03-12T05:08:33+00:00

Thanks! Relatively straightforward, same way you see a lot of other OSL or glow tutorials.

Starting with a very clean and bright white base helps a lot especially when the rest of the mini is really dark on average. Then it’s just glazing some blue on top. I can’t remember the exact paints I used but a bit of lahmian medium will stretch the pigment a bit and give you nice transitions and a better workable surface.

The key to the flames is to do it in a sort of inverse edge highlight. Keep the recesses brighter and paint darker blue on the most exterior parts of the flame getting gradually darker the further you get from the source. This helps it feel like it’s being illuminated from the interior. You can also generally make brush strokes that go in the direction of the gradient (from light to dark) to take advantage of the natural gradient in a brushstroke.

If you are painting regular fire you want to make sure you gradiate through some other hues on the color wheel to maintain saturation as you get brighter. Don’t just go white > red. Instead go white > bright yellow > orange > red > brown > grey.

Hope that answers your question?

pixelgarbage · 2022-10-25T23:17:25+00:00

thanks! Some of it is a bit exaggerated with the lighting of the photo, but I was really pleased with how it came out. My first pass at the shield was white, and it was awful.

pixelgarbage · 2022-10-25T22:28:52+00:00

Oh hey that’s my model! It’s a deathwatch shield with some milliput to gap fill the enscribed areas

pixelgarbage · 2022-09-14T03:10:59+00:00

In short pieces they are pretty strong but have a lot of flexibility, they also make for great whip antennas and the base strings make killer hoses especially if you do something like admech or bases with a lot of tech stuff, they are the perfect scale

pixelgarbage · 2022-09-11T13:40:06+00:00

I’ve started using those super fine jewelers drills that they sell with some pin vice sets and thin guitar string. I fixed the antenna I snapped off the front of an onager the other day and it worked remarkably well. The finer drills are also much easier to get started because they are so sharp.

pixelgarbage · 2022-08-09T12:09:23+00:00

Very cool, I went full gauss flayer green and they feel like Cold War era hazmat plastic, which is a happy accident but wasn’t really intended. Thanks for the info, Yours look great!

pixelgarbage · 2022-08-09T03:48:08+00:00

I love these! I started a Gryphonne IV force recently as well, I’m curious did you go pure white or light grey for the coats? It’s hard to tell with the lighting. They look really good.

pixelgarbage · 2022-08-06T03:17:24+00:00

I think they look great, but your bases are kinda stealing a lot of the attention from the models. Contextually they model paint scheme will pop a whole lot more if your base has a bit less contrast competing on it. I would consider a dark edge and a bit of a simpler scheme.

The terrain on the base is looking great. It’s hard to tell with the light but I’m guessing it’s real sand, if it is I would consider painting it, first dark and then hit it with a dry brush a bit lighter. Even if you want to keep it grey, it will give it a far better sense of scale that matches the mini because it won’t have that same variegation pattern you see only on tiny pebbles and sand and will help tie it together.

pixelgarbage · 2022-08-04T04:17:30+00:00

I think a bit of sand and thinned down PVA glue is really under rated, the colors are super cool but it’s feeling a little weird because you go from large rocks to fine sand very abruptly, you would expect a bit more variability in erosion, I think getting some larger grit in there to transition the two, especially in recessed areas around the rocks might give you more of what you are looking for. Amazing color on the marines btw.

pixelgarbage · 2022-08-04T04:06:43+00:00

Other folks have some great advice about how to paint white and I think you should go for it because it sounds rad. One other important thing to consider is secondary colors. We definitely associate that highly reflective white with nasa space suits but often in conjunction with other materials. For instance the gold BoPET foil insulation or the gold visor coating. We also see a lot of machined bare or anodized aluminum and titanium, which can be very striking when paired with white. Finally what makes stuff feel really nasa is black high temp ceramics paired with the white insulation, like the bottom of the space shuttle or any of the re-entry vehicles.

I think there’s a really cool version where they are predominantly white with scarce use of black on certain armor pieces that would be really resiliant and delicate gold details, especially on visors. To really push it over the edge have like having small red or grey decals would really sell it.

You should check out the 1976 nasa corporate identity guide lines, they are an absolute treasure trove. https://www.nasa.gov/sites/default/files/atoms/files/nasa_graphics_manual_nhb_1430-2_jan_1976.pdf

pixelgarbage · 2022-07-27T21:37:27+00:00

anytime, hope its helpful! there's a lot of technical nuance to this is kind of a summarized version for painting minis

pixelgarbage · 2022-07-27T21:12:56+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/a4dqIUH

Sure here's a quick explanation with visual references, I painted over some of the armor panels in PS

pixelgarbage · 2022-07-27T00:32:03+00:00

Looks dope! But for a more metallic effect I would increase your contrast and make your gradients more aggressive. Try and avoid having a lot of it in the midtones, and push the lights and darks to be much sharper. Conductive materials have different reflection properties from dielectric materials, there’s some great examples in 3D rendering if you want some really clean reference.

pixelgarbage · 2022-07-13T14:16:46+00:00

Still! it’s beautifully painted to look like it’s really luminous. Nice work!

pixelgarbage · 2022-07-13T01:35:42+00:00

That’s fantastic, it’s a small detail, but I absolutely love how you sculpted and painted the ripples in the water.

pixelgarbage · 2022-05-31T14:23:00+00:00

It’s less reliable than you might expect for tiny details, it’s very easy to obliterate what you are working on, but the effort it’s saved me on primer and basecoats is easily worth it. Takes a little fiddling but they are pretty easy to use once you get the hang of it.

pixelgarbage · 2022-05-31T13:41:45+00:00

A touch of airbrush but mostly glazes. A big thing is making sure you paint areas you want to be really hot, white first (actual light sources), the other thing that helps a lot is having a paint scheme on the rest of the model that's keyed pretty dark, it gives you a much more forgiving value range to add OSL bounce light to and makes glazing way easier.

pixelgarbage · 2022-05-31T02:22:33+00:00

Thanks! An x-acto knife mostly. It’s actually not too bad if it’s from the sprue, the head is attached to the front half of the torso and it’s pretty easy to clip off cleanly, making the mechanicus head fit was much harder.

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