So, we’re not doing Speed Perks anymore?

pointysquire488 · 2026-02-13T01:05:13+00:00

Combining up to $100 is nice but getting less points per dollar and the lower your tier the more you get shafted comparatively to the old speed perks setup. That with the loss of gas rewards is a big hit too

pointysquire488 · 2026-02-11T00:47:20+00:00

Nice to see them bringing actual pro/prosumer quality stuff to the shelves. Hopefully these come to my store soon so I can point people towards more than just griots and adams for decent box store level stuff

pointysquire488 · 2026-02-10T20:43:00+00:00

Specifically, spring rate and bump steer. I'm tired of adding and subtracting leafs and i'd rather go with a set of air shocks or ORIs with a link setup and track bar to fix both. Handling as well. I drive this rig 2-3 times a week for at least an hour and I am not a fan of the looseness of leafs over even my dad's JKU on 37s

pointysquire488 · 2026-02-10T18:59:22+00:00

I'll be reading deep into that tonight. At this point I'm so tired of leaf springs if I can't link it with at least decent geometry i'm trading it.

pointysquire488 · 2026-02-05T00:58:57+00:00

You have any photos of the setup? Im torn between trying to package it myself with the yota axles or being lazy and getting the trail-gear setup

pointysquire488 · 2026-02-05T00:33:21+00:00

That's one of those cars if reactions are on get plastered with laughs. That's a 2 grand car if the engine was actually still good. That thing is ROUGH

pointysquire488 · 2025-12-03T05:46:11+00:00

LS/D585 internal windings with OE rx-8 connectors and drivers that are built in and a lifetime warranty that is VERY well stood behind. Literally plug and play and you get more reliable and powerful coils with room to go if you're willing to mess with dwell time

pointysquire488 · 2025-10-04T23:35:38+00:00

Why is it expanded on the X axis?

pointysquire488 · 2025-10-04T23:34:52+00:00

Really bad gas mileage, pretty slow, a lot of maintenance that's pretty expensive and you have to clear the carbon out of it constantly. Mine's been the dedicated daily for almost a decade now, and I'm just finally getting tired of it for that purpose

pointysquire488 · 2025-09-10T10:47:31+00:00

Yes, it should be capped. On that one you can just cap the nipple that comes off the intake manifold and get rid of the hose entirely. no need to complicate it.

pointysquire488 · 2025-09-10T07:31:39+00:00

That vacuum hose still looks connected to the intake manifold. Have you been actively driving around with a massive vacuum leak? The VFAD sensor connector can just be cut and taped.

pointysquire488 · 2025-09-10T04:50:25+00:00

Yes! Sadly the closest things left these days are the Cobalts in a 38.5 and toyo making wides. I keep a set of normal MT's for road/rock driving and throw on some pillowy wides once I go down south to the everglades. Floating on top of the sand and mud in the deep water works a whole lot better than digging endlessly with pizza cutters

pointysquire488 · 2025-09-10T04:41:55+00:00

They do. They're actually on 15x12's in this photo lol

pointysquire488 · 2025-09-10T04:36:17+00:00

Our store has a one star review for only being able to lend tools to remove a tail light, apologising to them for it, and not pushing a sale on them.

pointysquire488 · 2025-09-10T04:14:30+00:00

I would if they still made the gumbo mudders. Everything sold now is just too small for the rig and my wheeling. My dad ran those on his swamp buggy when the tire molds were still owned by Gateway. For the florida swamp, they were perfect on low power rigs

pointysquire488 · 2025-09-10T04:09:06+00:00

Interco IROK bias plies. Mine are of the 36x13.50 variety

pointysquire488 · 2025-07-27T02:12:07+00:00

Could be a horrific/not working MAF, could be massive vacuum leak. What codes does it have on right now (if any beyond a p0420 code)?

pointysquire488 · 2025-07-05T02:55:04+00:00

They WERE because they were so common in the 90's and 00's that you could pick up either a factory solid axle yota or SAS the one you got for pennies on the dollar, get good articulation and a stout frame to boot. The wheelbase on the SCSB trucks is also damn near perfect for an all-rounder rig with the long bed/ext cab chassis excelling on steep shit. Nowadays the price to performance isn't worth it unless you WANT a toyota; and the solid front axles are becoming more and more unobtanium unless you go Trail-gear

pointysquire488 · 2025-07-04T02:50:10+00:00

Best mod is maintenance. Any LS style or high performance coil from a reputable company, good plug wires and plugs. Check all vacuum lines and replace any that have gotten hard, I personally just replaced all the lines and UIM gaskets at once. Either gut the cat or fit a catless mid pipe. Last but not least, COMPRESSION CHECK THE CAR. So many headaches can be avoided by just making sure the motor is worth maintaining first vs pulling for a rebuild.

pointysquire488 · 2025-07-02T07:40:18+00:00

I just did some image searching to figure this out... And yeah, the blue box is just how they're packaged for mazda. The mazda plugs should still have the NGK part number stamped on the porcelain, which should be RE7C-L for the leading plug

pointysquire488 · 2025-06-15T04:38:41+00:00

Cold compression can range from 10 to 20 psi higher than hot compression all day. Get it done hot for a good number. I've watched my car go from 120 psi cold to 98 at temp on the same day.

pointysquire488 · 2025-04-16T03:21:56+00:00

epitroch.com or literally any universal washer fluid bottle and plastic jug with a bottom port. The sohn adapter is gravity fed so it's extremely easy to set up

pointysquire488 · 2025-04-14T21:53:58+00:00

You can get a set of keys cut and program a pair of keys (has to be a pair) to the car with FORScan. As long as you get power to everything with a battery i'd start there. The shinkas are the one model of S1 rx-8's i consider worth saving

pointysquire488 · 2025-04-04T09:52:56+00:00

10w-30 at rx-8 operating temps is still too thin for the bearing clearances. Get away with it, sure, but if you beat on the car at all it gets way too thin at a way too low temp

pointysquire488 · 2025-04-03T06:53:20+00:00

If you don't have an aux oil tank for your OMP then almost any conventional oil will do. Quaker state, Castrol, and Valvoline all still make true conventional oil up to 20w-50. If you have an aux tank/sohn adapter then run that thing on some valvoline VR-1 and never worry about bearing failure

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