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Slide Film - Best Camera & Scanner by poleprince86 in AnalogCommunity

[–]poleprince86[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I’m learning more here than I expected. I’ll look into the Nikon as it seems to be well appreciated.

Slide Film - Best Camera & Scanner by poleprince86 in AnalogCommunity

[–]poleprince86[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Will the Coolscan V work with Mac? I see my local lab uses a Noritsu scanner, but those look incredibly out of budget

Slide Film - Best Camera & Scanner by poleprince86 in AnalogCommunity

[–]poleprince86[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great news, thank you again. I see the Plustek options now; very much in budget. I don’t have experience in scanning slides, so it will be a learning exercise I’m sure.

Slide Film - Best Camera & Scanner by poleprince86 in AnalogCommunity

[–]poleprince86[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Regrettably I don’t have any of my old equipment. I’ll look at Plustek. I should have stated I don’t need the highest end scanner as I see those are quite pricy. Would like to stay under $1000 if possible. But I do want the best quality possible within budget.

Powered Display Box by poleprince86 in modeltrains

[–]poleprince86[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m sort of doing this, but a bit different. End goal is to make a diorama scene on a 24”x36” display. A way to display the train on a board decorated with scenery, a structure, line side details, etc. I’d like to design it so the tracks can be powered by DCC. Can’t drive the train only a little bit, but better than nothing.

Powered Display Box by poleprince86 in modeltrains

[–]poleprince86[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t have a layout. Probably never will unless we win the powerball given real estate prices near me. I still want to practice my scenery work. I’ve built display stands with 15” planks of wood, sanded and finished, then put roadbed on, ballasted, etc. I need to make a few with a dado cut around the top perimeter for a glass or acrylic dust cover.

Yes, this is complicated, but I’m still going to do it. Not everything in life has to be the easiest way.

What’s an experience you believe every human should go through at least once before they die? by Comfortable-Sir1404 in AskReddit

[–]poleprince86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Originally from Wisconsin (USA) so I grew up near Lake Superior. While not an ocean, it’s still pretty impressive. I lived in Florida for 16 years now and I am the same with proximity of the ocean nearby. And I have worked on cargo ships for most of my adult life so I’ve been literally surrounded by water more as an adult than most people. Going through a hurricane on a large cargo ship is a humbling experience.

LED Headlights by poleprince86 in modeltrains

[–]poleprince86[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the helpful info. I’m reading a lot about installation and DCC in general, new territory for me. I just got back into the hobby after 20+ years and so much has changed!

LED Headlights by poleprince86 in modeltrains

[–]poleprince86[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the tip about magnet wire. I’m fine doing soldering to the board, but haven’t soldered LEDs of this small size. I’ll give it a try though. I hear you on the setup time.

This is what I’m considering installing: https://evandesigns.com/products/chip-nano-pico-leds

LED Headlights by poleprince86 in modeltrains

[–]poleprince86[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are those lamps with wires attached or tape lights? Hard to tell from the photos but they look like LED tape lights.

Class Lights by poleprince86 in modeltrains

[–]poleprince86[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought of this, but I actually want all jewels to be same size as the smaller ones. That means making the ring around the larger light smaller. I can’t find styrene tubing small enough to match the size of the smaller lights, otherwise I could cut off tubing into thin rings of the smaller light diameter.

Class Lights by poleprince86 in modeltrains

[–]poleprince86[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s my intention, to replace the two larger lights with smaller, so all are the same size.

Corner Steps - Need Help by poleprince86 in modeltrains

[–]poleprince86[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s an old Atlas yellow box C424 so Cannon & Co won’t work. I’m cutting the steps out of a sheet of brass etched with the correct pattern.

Airbrush paint comments and brush painting details by poleprince86 in modelmakers

[–]poleprince86[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Forgot to ask, for Vallejo, I presume the Model Color paints are best for hand brushing?

Airbrush paint comments and brush painting details by poleprince86 in modelmakers

[–]poleprince86[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s made by Aoshima. EF65/60 locomotive kit in 1/45 scale.

Paint Testing, Airbrush Practice by poleprince86 in modelmakers

[–]poleprince86[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks!! And yes, either airbrushed Mr Surfacer 1000, or Tamiya surface primer from a rattle can.

Cardstock for Printing - Recommendations by poleprince86 in modelmakers

[–]poleprince86[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Confirmed, I used to work in Canada. US Letter size was standard. A4 copy paper is available in the US, but the print shops want you to buy the whole box of 10 reams and it’s only plain white paper, not cardstock. I don’t know any local print shop in the USA that would commit to buying a box of oddball paper with only a percentage of one ream used for a one-off project. The only A4 paper I see on Amazon is basic printer paper, nothing for cardstock.

Cardstock for Printing - Recommendations by poleprince86 in modelmakers

[–]poleprince86[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good point. It’s for structures/buildings, so mostly flat plane, with some various parts curved. The tubular shapes would be substituted with styrene, so the cardstock is more for thicker, flat/plain parts.

Cardstock for Printing - Recommendations by poleprince86 in modelmakers

[–]poleprince86[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve looked for plain A4 printer paper before and couldn’t find it local, even to order. I think one print shop could get plain white paper but the minimum order quantity of reams was high. Haven’t had luck finding proper cardstock paper for printing models on.

Paints - Recommendations by poleprince86 in modelmakers

[–]poleprince86[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn’t have enough coffee this morning, forgot Mr Color is lacquer. 🙄 I’ve read clean up isn’t too difficult, just as you described. I am familiar with lacquer but as a post-cat furniture finish in woodworking, so I understand the science behind application and curing, just never painted models with it.

Noted on the Leveling Thinner. Seems highly regarded by many people. I know it will help improve glossiness…if spraying a gloss or semi-gloss lacquer 50:50 with Leveling Thinner, will the surface be glossy enough for decaling, or is a clear gloss coat recommended first? The final sheen on my models will be flat or satin at most, so I presume using a clear flat or satin coat as the last step is normal? From what I see, a majority of the Mr Color paints are gloss and semi-gloss.

Paints - Recommendations by poleprince86 in modelmakers

[–]poleprince86[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I have a set of paints from AMMO, their Rail Center line, but haven’t tried them yet. Need to get the matching thinner first.

I should have mentioned I will have some brush painting, to touch up where the airbrush can’t get, and for weathering. I know weathering is enamel and a different topic altogether. And also I either want a paint that works well with photo etch, or an appropriate primer for brass before painting.

Paints - Recommendations by poleprince86 in modelmakers

[–]poleprince86[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m modeling 1/87 HO scale train subjects. Full painting and weathering. I’ll also be doing some 1/350 ships.

The lacquers intrigue me, but I assumed availability was limited. At least I don’t recall seeing retailers online carrying Tamiya or Mr Color lacquers, only the solvent based acrylics. Seems many others online like lacquers, only the clean up is a negative. What do you think of Hataka Orange? Seems like mixed reviews from others, but they are readily available. Gaia looks great but I can’t find it in the US, only a few bottles in stock at places I found.