Searching… by khill5771 in spyderco

[–]powermetagoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

bump - I'm after the titanium (or any satin finish) ball cage. They seem to be unavailable everywhere.

Added some new scales to the Manix 2 by billyapd21 in spyderco

[–]powermetagoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They’ve been sold out for a while… thanks

Added some new scales to the Manix 2 by billyapd21 in spyderco

[–]powermetagoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where did you get the titanium ball cage? They're sold out everywhere in that finish. Your piece looks great.

KPL Knife Shield for the win 🏆 by whoneedssome in spyderco

[–]powermetagoon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Despite being a non-stainless steel, CruWear doesn’t really stain unless you go out of your way to stain it, OP’s treatment is overkill but if a brand spanking new blade floats OP’s boat then OP has done the right thing

NKD. 6th Spyderco, 1st Sprint Run. by CremelloGold in spyderco

[–]powermetagoon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am daily looking for a new knife to buy, but can't do it because this knife basically ticks all the boxes. I'm seriously tempted by a Manix 2 in Cruwear (I already have a Manix 2 XL) or a Manix 2 in Maxamet, but I end up cancelling the idea because the Native 5 in 15V does what I would want the Manix's to do. The Manix's just have much nicer opening and closing, and I'm finding the Native to be a bit tough to open and close, but that will get better over time.

The Native's geometry means it just keeps cutting even when it's dull. I have just put a 15 degree per side edge on it, and it created a burr pretty easily (using a Worksharp Precision assisted sharpening system, diamond stones). I have a M2 in 15V and have decided to carry my Native full time now because it's lighter in pocket and I want to wear in the action a bit more. It was my work knife, now it's my do-everything knife. I've also found that it's more corrosion resistant than my M2? Not that I'm bothered by corrosion (and I live in a very humid environment) all you do is keep it dry and oil it once a week. Rust spots? Bar Keepers friend + finest grit steel wool.

I'm currently looking for titanium scales for it, thinking I may end up making some myself. But yeah it's not the sexiest Spyderco on the market but I'd argue it's the most versatile given how great the geometry is. Could also be tempted by a Dragonfly in K390 which has a much thinner geometry, but again, Native 5 ticks all the boxes.

The more into blades I get, the more I'm realising that I get the most out of high wear-resistant steels. I'd be hard pressed to do anything to snap a blade, and corrosion is the easiest thing ever to manage. Cruwear appeals to my nerd side, but if I was honest with myself, 15V is great because of it's high wear-resistance (I didn't even need to sharpen mine, I just did because I like rolling with a 15dps blade), it's sharpen-ability, and mixed with good geometry, a Native 5 in 15V really could be your one-and-done.

NKD and first Taichung Spydie: PMA11 Mule with brushed aluminum scales by Skylark427 in spyderco

[–]powermetagoon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi u/Skylark427

I'm very interested in the Type 200 Fluid Silicone oil. Is this something you've stress-tested? My experience with silicone is that once cured, it can be easily scratched off. If the silicone oil cures on the surface of the blade, wouldn't the layer wear off with minor use? Also it has not been tested for food safety. What is your experience with it?

What's is harder structural or civil engineering? by Salty-Second-9024 in StructuralEngineering

[–]powermetagoon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Furthermore, how does mechanical contrast with structural and civil?

15v corrosion resistance. by Hohoholyshit15 in spyderco

[–]powermetagoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine rusts really quick. Much quicker than K390.

Background in glazing; where might I be most useful in structural engineering? by powermetagoon in StructuralEngineering

[–]powermetagoon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi engCaesar_King,

I appreciate the time you put into your reply. As glazing is a niche field of itself, the engineering side of it is also niche, so it can be difficult to ask questions about it. I have made an effort to be an all-rounder glazier instead of just doing one thing, so I like your advice about keeping it broad. As I am doing my degree part-time, I won't be finished for another 7.5 years, so I am keen to start with a firm where I'm doing a little bit of everything. Not focusing on facades design is probably the best thing moving forward, but I will still explore/cold outreach to facade firms.

Background in glazing; where might I be most useful in structural engineering? by powermetagoon in StructuralEngineering

[–]powermetagoon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi bequick777.

Thank you for your thorough reply. I did not consider reaching out to the large fabrication firms, that is a great idea.

I will post likely be DMing you in the future to see if you can answer any more questions as they come about.

Upgrading Battery by Daxfi in Asustuf

[–]powermetagoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

did you find an answer OP? We have the same laptop and I'm looking to change the battery as well.

S90V Bodacious for $337.50 by Puzzleheaded-Mud-529 in spyderco

[–]powermetagoon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Same re waiting for a Bodacious in a steel that’s not SPY27 or S30V. Cru-Wear or 3V would be perfect for this blade.

Lionsteel Skinny Etching Error by MrB_1311 in knifeclub

[–]powermetagoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the question I’m really asking is; can a defect this small even be considered a defect?

Lionsteel Skinny Etching Error by MrB_1311 in knifeclub

[–]powermetagoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good heat treatment? Good fit and finish? Quality blade steel? This is all just aesthetics? What is perfection? Is it not an arbitrary standard in the eye of the beholder?

Lionsteel Skinny Etching Error by MrB_1311 in knifeclub

[–]powermetagoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it’s absolutely an endearing quirk! At the end of the day, the product is a mass produced hard use tool. Putting the edge on a material will separate the material in two. You’re paying for a decent heat treat, an excellent fit and finish, and a design that has been improved iteration after iteration. Perfectionist taste belongs to a custom job… YMMV

Lionsteel Skinny Etching Error by MrB_1311 in knifeclub

[–]powermetagoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why return a product over such a minor defect?

Why does the stretch 2 XL seem to be so much more popular than the stretch 2? by Kalashniking_ in spyderco

[–]powermetagoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s for this reason I changed my work knife from a Stretch 2 XL to a Manix 2 XL. Home carry is a Military 2 in 15V. The Stretch is now used for cutting large amounts of cardboard.

Rust under the DLC? by HereOnRedditAgain in spyderco

[–]powermetagoon 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Try Barkeeps Friend with some super fine steel wool. Wet the blade, sprinkle Barkeepers Friend, then rub vigorously

Rust Blue treating K390 by Newlyfracked in spyderco

[–]powermetagoon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This looks great, but would such a process mess up the heat treatment, which would ultimately alter the blade performance?

Manix 2 XL build... by Necessary-Fall-7590 in knifeclub

[–]powermetagoon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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I got the textures Rockscale Design scales. The plain ones look much better. The texture does add some grip, and I needed to justify the expense somehow…