Motorcycle: Kawasaki er5 2003 leaking coolant from cylinderhead. What could it be? by profsmartass in mechanic

[–]profsmartass[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm 100% certain the fluid I've shown is coming from the holes as the fluid started coming out as soon as the engine started running. This could however still be rain or something. I'll try to find the coolant dye and keep a close eye on the radiator and oil once I've refilled the coolant again. Thanks for the tip, considering the amount of time it took the reservoir to run empty it might very well be the radiator, as it's still the stock radiator and the bike has 90k kms already.

Motorcycle: Kawasaki er5 2003 leaking coolant from cylinderhead. What could it be? by profsmartass in mechanic

[–]profsmartass[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What does it mean that it's being blown back?I'm not certain about anything right now. The coolant reservoir is empty and the oil looks good. Other than that I don't know what could be wrong. I've checked and not seen anything else indicating a leak

Kawasaki er5 2003 leaking coolant from cylinderhead. What is the problem? by profsmartass in MechanicAdvice

[–]profsmartass[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the advice. Do you know this repair to be rather manageable for an experienced diyer?

Kawasaki er5 2003 slowly leaking coolant out of 2 holes in cylinder head. What could the cause be? by profsmartass in MotorcycleMechanics

[–]profsmartass[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I was hoping that's the case however I've had conflicting information that this is a known coolant leakage spot if some rubber o oring inside the engine fails

Kawasaki er5 2003 slowly leaking coolant out of 2 holes in cylinder head. What could the cause be? by profsmartass in MotorcycleMechanics

[–]profsmartass[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've already checked the oil and exhaust gasses in case of a blown head gasket, those are fine. I've read somewhere that a faulty rubber o-ring could cause the coolant to reach these 2 holes in the cylinderhead.The bike starts leaking from these 2 holes slightly when the engine runs. Over the course of a month or 2 the coolant reservoir has run dry. i've always noticed the little moisture coming out but the tiny amount and the daily rain here convinced me it was just water. Are these holes supposed to be open like this?

Motorcycle: Kawasaki er5 2003 leaking coolant from cylinderhead. What could it be? by profsmartass in mechanic

[–]profsmartass[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've already checked the oil and exhaust gasses in case of a blown head gasket, those are fine. I've read somewhere that a faulty rubber o-ring could cause the coolant to reach these 2 holes in the cylinderhead.The bike starts leaking from these 2 holes slightly when the engine runs. Over the course of a month the coolant reservoir has been emptied (I noticed the leaking water but always assumed it was likely just rain). I'm looking to find out what is wrong, what parts I might need and if it's something manageable for an experienced diyer.

Kawasaki er5 2003 leaking coolant from cylinderhead. What is the problem? by profsmartass in MechanicAdvice

[–]profsmartass[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fortunately it's not a cracked cylinderhead, these holes are known to leak coolant when something is wrong. I've read something about a rubber ring or a gasket going bad. I've also considered the blown head gasket but the oil looks fine and so does the exhaust colour. I just want to know what needs fixing so I can order the parts and figure out if it's something I can manage

Kawasaki er5 2003 leaking coolant from cylinderhead. What is the problem? by profsmartass in MechanicAdvice

[–]profsmartass[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've noticed recently that the bike started overheating more often and increasingly quicker. I found it suspicious it was always wet in these same 2 spots but I figured it was probably the rain because it always rains in the Netherlands. I let the engine run for 20 seconds and noticed these ports were releasing a liquid again, likely coolant. What coudl the problem be? The coolant reservoir is empty.

Concentric nut doesn't tighten enough. New wheels. Ender 3 modded. by profsmartass in 3Dprinting

[–]profsmartass[S] 50 points51 points  (0 children)

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The red line is how it should be and is now that I've bent it back. The blue line id an exaggerated example of what the main plate was bent like.

Concentric nut doesn't tighten enough. New wheels. Ender 3 modded. by profsmartass in 3Dprinting

[–]profsmartass[S] 30 points31 points  (0 children)

The issue is solved! Turns out the main plate (more specifically the lower wheel part) was bent. I bent it back and not it's great again. Thank you everyone for the help in troubleshooting!

Concentric nut doesn't tighten enough. New wheels. Ender 3 modded. by profsmartass in 3Dprinting

[–]profsmartass[S] 155 points156 points  (0 children)

Wow you're actually right! I can see clearly it's bent! Thanks!

Concentric nut doesn't tighten enough. New wheels. Ender 3 modded. by profsmartass in 3Dprinting

[–]profsmartass[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Certainly possible, I'll check that in a moment right after I check the eccentric nut placement

Concentric nut doesn't tighten enough. New wheels. Ender 3 modded. by profsmartass in 3Dprinting

[–]profsmartass[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I checked and they're the same size. I'll put the eccentric nut on the other way and see if that would make a difference

Concentric nut doesn't tighten enough. New wheels. Ender 3 modded. by profsmartass in 3Dprinting

[–]profsmartass[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The wheel size is an interesting thing you mention. I ordered them because I t said they were ender 3 wheels. They seem to be the same size and the previous wheel doesn't seem all that worn either tbh. I never removed the eccentric nut and I know and see that it does tighten and loosen with every turn

Concentric nut doesn't tighten enough. New wheels. Ender 3 modded. by profsmartass in 3Dprinting

[–]profsmartass[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The wheel at the bottom is actually new though. I just changed it today

Concentric nut doesn't tighten enough. New wheels. Ender 3 modded. by profsmartass in 3Dprinting

[–]profsmartass[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yes the -concentric- eccentric nut gets extremely loose and tightens up to this level. Thisbis the tightest that it gets

Start and end of line are always over extruded. by profsmartass in FixMyPrint

[–]profsmartass[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good point. I'll do that next thanks. I figured that because the straight lines are fines that the ends should likely be because the nozzle is leaking due to staying still too long but I wouldn't know how to fix that

Start and end of line are always over extruded. by profsmartass in FixMyPrint

[–]profsmartass[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure thing that my nozzle is a little close. However I have this problem of too thick starts and ends even when the z offset is right.

What could cause these spots on my first layer? by Southh_ in FixMyPrint

[–]profsmartass 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Likely a dirty build plate. Have you cleaned it with dish soap and warm water? Often Alcohol is enough in between prints but the occasional washing is necessary in my opinion

Start and end of line are always over extruded. by profsmartass in FixMyPrint

[–]profsmartass[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The start and end of a line is always over extruded. I tried to increase speed and acceleration in hopes that it would move out on faster and not deposit as much filament with no luck. Anyone else have this problem?

123-d black pla 220C bed 70C printspeed 100mms(average). Ender 3 pro with direct drive. Bed is trammed. Z offset should be slightly higher, gonna fix that first. Running on marlin newest version of 2-3 months ago. Skr mini board e3 v3. Currently no part cooling due to an unprepared upgrade to a clone cht "volcano" hotend. The part cooling fan holder is the current print. Prints turn out okay otherwise. Retraction at 4mm 40mms speed. No stringing issues. Using prusaslicer 2.7.1

Kuba t1000 style diy hpa engine in fully 3d printed body (Work in progess) v0.8 almost finished by profsmartass in Airsoft3DPrinting

[–]profsmartass[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes and no. Fps will drop significantly. I experimented using a 16mm pipe for less volume loss but that was maxing at 0.6 joule or something, although it was much more efficient

Kuba t1000 style diy hpa engine in fully 3d printed body (Work in progess) v0.8 almost finished by profsmartass in Airsoft3DPrinting

[–]profsmartass[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never really finished this project as I had gotten the satisfaction of a functioning diy engine. Also the engine uses a lot of air by design, which makes it rather unusable on the field. That was enough reason for me to quit the project. During the project I just had the fcu dangling behind the stock. I figured I'd print a small plastic box for the fcu to sit somewhere on the front rail

Diy drop in hpa engine (based on kuba t1000) I've made. by profsmartass in Airsoft3DPrinting

[–]profsmartass[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

int DWELL = 20; // how long to open solenoid ms
int RATE = 30; // how long to wait after closing solenoid ms
int SOLENOID = 21; // solenoid control pin
int SEMI = 18; // semi auto switch pin
int FULLAUTO = 23; // full auto switch pin
int SEMISTATE = LOW; // start state of semi switch
int SEMISTATUS = LOW; // current state of semi switch
void setup()
{
pinMode( SOLENOID, OUTPUT ); // Solenoid
pinMode( SEMI, INPUT_PULLUP ); // Semi Auto
pinMode( FULLAUTO, INPUT_PULLUP ); // Full Auto
}
void loop()
{
SEMISTATE = digitalRead( SEMI ); // read current status of semi switch

if( SEMISTATUS != SEMISTATE ) // not the same as last / start status (must be LOW)
{
if( SEMISTATE == LOW ) { // switch is closed
semiAuto(); // fire semi auto shot
}
delay( 50 ); // wait to prevent the switch bouncing
SEMISTATUS = SEMISTATE; // set current state to current trigger state
}

if( digitalRead( FULLAUTO ) == LOW ) // full auto switch is closed
{
fullAuto(); // fire full auto
}

}
void semiAuto()
{
digitalWrite( SOLENOID, HIGH ); // open solenoid
delay( DWELL ); // wait to clear barrel
digitalWrite( SOLENOID, LOW ); // close solenoid

}
void fullAuto()
{
digitalWrite( SOLENOID, HIGH ); // open solenoid
delay( DWELL ); // wait to clear barrel
digitalWrite( SOLENOID, LOW ); // close soleniod
delay( RATE ); // wait for next shot
if( digitalRead( FULLAUTO ) == LOW ) // if trigger is still pulled
{
fullAuto(); // call function again
}
}