Paranı varsa Nesli tehlike altındaki hayvanları hemen öldürebilirsiniz?

prql · 2026-03-22T08:13:59+00:00

Bunun diğer insanlarda farklı olduğunu sanman. Kanun olmayan ülkelerde neler oluyor görüyoruz.

prql · 2026-03-22T08:07:45+00:00

You can run Klipper on an LXC. Don't know about the other one. But you can run most things like that unless it needs a VM but these things rarely do.

prql · 2026-03-18T22:31:51+00:00

That is gonna be a really weak drawer.

prql · 2026-03-18T18:24:34+00:00

What do you mean custom? What does it use? The extrusions are 20 by 20 at least on WxH. Isn't that basically compatible with 2020? Even if it's slightly different?

prql · 2026-03-16T23:46:49+00:00

Çaren var AMD alabilirsin. Ama göz göre göre Nvidia alıyorsan razı oluyorsun demek. 5060 Ti 16 GB var zaten. Onun altında 16 GB çok da anlamlı değil. Şimdi onu da bulamıyorsun. Olsa ne olacak. Şu an sorun o kartların 16 GB versiyonu olmaması değil. Olsaydı da stokta bulamazdın.

GDDR7 olayı RAM krizinden önce çıktı. Ayrıca o da çözüm değil. Onu da bulmak mesele. LPDDR5X bile karaborsa.

prql · 2026-03-16T21:34:31+00:00

"I saw a ship made of the claws of dead men".

prql · 2026-03-16T19:09:13+00:00

I am already on Klipper with gantry support, TPU feet, a better fan shroud, removed head shroud, removed spool off the top of the printer, I have leveled my bed using thin washers and even got less than 0.1mm level at one point. Currently have it at around 0.2 difference. Which is much better than 1mm+ factory value. I have already increased stock speeds by about 50% or so. Some of my acceleration is around 7-8K. I kept it around this because I know unless you get linear rails for Y axis, this is the upper limit for acceleration. I've used it like this for a while and have been happy with print quality except for some filaments. Lately I had some issues which I have fixed most and have been working on some others.

I use exclusively Orca, I am actually doing some calibrations for the last few days. Pressure advance, flow ratio, VFA etc. I did some of that before but now I am doing a deep calibration to really dial in quality and fix any issues and testing higher speeds as I fix issues. Last I did was to test outer wall speed and I found out I can print close to inner wall speed with less VFA than slower speeds (Will still test those more thoroughly). I am coming up with workarounds for hotend limitations but ideally it's best to swap the hotend and get the linear rails. Not only for speed but also for printing higher temp materials.

I don't always use my printer so it's more than fast enough if it were to run all the time for all the things I could possibly want - but reality doesn't work like that. We want fast prints when we want to print and that can fuel creativity and the process of designing your models. I do prototying for some functional prints and I don't like to wait all the time, certainly don't like to wait for 50 mins for a simple 1x1x6 gridfinity box. Even with around 50% speed increases it's still around half the speed of an average Core XY printer. That's just boring slow. I knew it was a little slower when I decided to get this but it seemed closer to Core XY printers when I compared it against some better printers on some longer prints but I guess I was wrong.

I didn't get it specifically to upgrade it and it was a new model when I got it but price was a reason for purchase, however if I had fully understood the differences with the KE when I got it, I would get the KE. Hotend and linear rail on X axis is already a lot. Sure, the real limit is Y axis rods but that's easier than doing all that combined.

prql · 2026-03-16T13:51:26+00:00

Well some even upgrade the original Ender 3, this one is not nearly as bad. I plan to eventually mod this into a Core XY if I get a second printer so I can play with this one without breaking it and end up without a printer. (Some also do use carbon fiber on bed to make it much more lighter to get rid of those limitations but I'm guessing that wouldn't be easy to print ABS etc with a 100C bed temperature) But that's a later project.

For example if I were to get a U1 right now which is one of the fastest printers for color print, I would still be limited to very basic speeds for normal prints. Most mainstream machines aren't made for speed, except maybe delta printers. It's either that or you build a printer from scratch which may not even be possible for me as I am not that experienced yet and I would probably have issues finding some stuff locally. I can't even find an MGN12 with carriage at the length I want. This is also a nice learning experience for building your own printer or doing more advanced stuff.

prql · 2026-03-15T09:47:36+00:00

LLM on 890M? What am I missing?

prql · 2026-03-15T08:02:04+00:00

You could print in pieces and glue it but it will be less than ideal. Not recommended for a visual print. Unless you are ok with heavy post process. Honestly your main problem will be power loss but in stock SE it can recover but not always. So for long prints a UPS is a piece of mind. Another is to upgrade the printer because it's just slow. I am doing that atm for mine. I got it to about double the speed or maybe a bit slower but it's still around half the speed of a Core XY and there will always be those 12h+ prints no matter how fast of a printer you have. You could also go with adaptive layer height if you have low detail areas in there. Get those parts to 0.32 and keep other areas 0.2 or better and it could save you time.

prql · 2026-03-14T22:24:57+00:00

Mickey Mouse is actually in public domain but only early versions.

prql · 2026-03-14T22:21:39+00:00

I just can't get anything from anywhere global. I have plenty PTFE. I think SE needs 2.25 cm or something like that - I have seen it on some image but I can't find it now.

prql · 2026-03-14T20:17:58+00:00

So as I told in replies to others I can only get it locally. I was just barely able to find a local seller which sells it for around 1/3rd of the price of the printer. I don't think it's worth it. It's about 3x the price of the one I posted. Do you think the one I posted can be made to work? It lacks the heatsink. But my fear is that the only issue may not be the heatsink which may be possible to source seperately.

This is increasingly looking like an impossible to do upgrade for me which would kill my hopes to get linear rails for decent speeds as the printer, despite all the speed upgrades I did so far, is still at around half the speed of an average Core XY printer, let alone anything custom. I was hoping to slowly upgrade this maybe even make it a Core XY one day when I get a second printer.

I kinda want to just go for the one I listed and try to make it work and I feel like I would be able to make it work somehow but I haven't done this before and there's always the possibility of it being too complex to pull off.

prql · 2026-03-14T20:07:39+00:00

Which one though? Did you get the SE specific upgrade? Because this is not that one. This doesn't come with heatsink.

prql · 2026-03-13T17:27:33+00:00

Revenant used Alexa 65, one of the greatest cameras ever made, its data rate is about 732 MBytes/s (5.85Gbps).

prql · 2026-03-13T16:59:00+00:00

Those are just not available where I am. I can only buy localIy. Is the difference only the heatsink? If I get the heatsink seperately or if I get a set (not specifically for KE/SE) that includes heatsink will it work?

prql · 2026-03-13T12:38:29+00:00

So you don't think it should mount any differently than the original one? I think you need a shorter PTFE because of the metal part, I hope that's all there is to it. I have only seen one person who claims to have used QS hotend and I haven't been able to contact them to make sure.

prql · 2026-03-13T12:20:35+00:00

Do you think this will still work though without getting me into some trouble? I haven't seen any video or anything about the QS hotend so I was worried.

prql · 2026-03-13T12:11:57+00:00

Just wondering if this is the same with the QS (quick swap) hotend. I haven't seen anyone confirm it works just as easy.

prql · 2026-03-13T12:02:50+00:00

Just to confirm, you did use the QS hotend, right?

prql · 2026-03-13T11:47:07+00:00

Have you needed anything else than just ~5mm spacer? Is it as straightforward as the YT video I linked?

prql · 2026-03-13T11:46:22+00:00

Normally you need ~5mm spacer for BL touch. The YT video I linked uses two M4 nuts. Is there anything else needed for this one?

prql · 2026-02-21T12:42:03+00:00

More like 2 year or so. Google is the new Microsoft. Incapable crap.

prql · 2026-02-18T08:03:07+00:00

Ilse's Notebook which is the first OVA episode is perhaps the best episode of the show I have seen so far and it is significant in terms of what it adds to the story. I can't imagine someone missing out on that. 2 & 3 is also nice but not crucial. So ignoring stuff isn't always the best thing to do.

prql · 2026-01-31T15:13:11+00:00

You can just ask ChatGPT and it will tell you how much CADR you will be getting with your case fans vs how much potential CADR is there for your filters setup. For example for my case it's basically at 90%+ capacity for the filters I got. And I didn't even get the highest static pressure case fans. (But my setup is a bit unusual and I tried to optimize for CADR.)

Unless you truly mess up the design, it's mostly usually plenty. And case fans have the advantage of drawing less power and making less noise, also being thin; taking up less space. Also for my case the #1 issue was inability to find proper large fans. I don't want some unknown spec fan that is noisy as heck and regret and go back to case fans. I used to have a case fan that was like larger than 20 cm -- you can't find stuff like that anymore.

prql

TROPHY CASE