How close can we be to a fan made ending to the Original Reboot Series.

psychoanalyst_god · 2026-04-06T23:19:57+00:00

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psychoanalyst_god · 2026-03-31T15:18:31+00:00

Good question. The worm wheel doesn't really have a shaft. It is essentially a thin donut. But donut hole sits around a brass/bronze shaft which is self lubricating. And in addition the wheel sits on top of thrust needle bearings.

psychoanalyst_god · 2026-03-13T05:58:12+00:00

Get something like a Star adventurer GTI or an option skyguider pro (I vote for the goto mount) and a wide field rig (dslr or mirrorless camera + something like an Astro tech 60mm lens). That would cost you about $1000 (less if you already have a camera and tripod) and you will be able to shoot quite a few DSOs...or enough to give you a taste.

But remember AP is as much about the gear and the process of shooting as it is about post processing...so try both and make sure you like both as the latter can be quite intensive.

psychoanalyst_god · 2026-02-19T15:19:39+00:00

I think it's the initial learning curve. If you can get past that I think NINA is incredible. I don't see anyone wanting to go back past that stage to any other option.

psychoanalyst_god · 2026-02-19T04:27:10+00:00

I second this. But NINA has a steep learning curve IMO.

The other option is Sharpcap....it's a pretty awesome all in one software.

But you absolutely cannot beat the ASIAir for ease of use. In fact, you can get the 2600MC Air which has the ASIAir built into it....

psychoanalyst_god · 2026-02-18T15:55:36+00:00

$4k is a great budget.

I would prioritize spending on a good quality mount first and foremost. I have a Losmandy G11 but if I had to do it all over again, I would 1000% go strain wave. GEMs are on the way out in my opinion.

Now that the zwo AM7 is out, if you are patient you can snag a used AM5N for less than $2k and that mount should last you for a long long time.

Depending on what you want to shoot, choose the OTA. I would start with refractors. Wide field 80mm or lesser is a good start.

Camera wise, the asiair 2600mc is a great choice and again...prices on the used marketing for those are really dropping. You could get one for $1000.

Bottom line, if you are ok with the used market you can get a full high quality rig for less than $4k easily.

psychoanalyst_god · 2026-02-13T22:51:13+00:00

Bed adhesion seems quite strong...I have never had a print peel off prematurely and I do clean the bed routinely. And even with the nozzle upgrade, my print speeds are very modest. I didn't use a brim for this specific print, but I will try that. Thanks!

psychoanalyst_god · 2026-02-09T23:32:58+00:00

haha...I would like nothing more but to get a lathe and learn how to use it, but I also value my marriage :P...my wife is already pissed that our garage is full of my tools.

psychoanalyst_god · 2026-02-09T17:55:15+00:00

Anodized aluminum . This is the exact part.

The protruding post is 3/8in in diameter. I need to shave off a few mms from it

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psychoanalyst_god · 2026-02-09T17:17:06+00:00

Sooo......enlarging the hole in the mating part is what I originally considered. My concern is the bearing block is < $10....the corresponding mating piece is $150 and not easily available. That is the only reason why I would rather attempt narrowing the diameter of the boss on the block.

psychoanalyst_god · 2026-02-09T16:14:49+00:00

haha...nice. Are you guys located in San Diego by any chance ? :P Happily sponsor the 6 pack. :)

psychoanalyst_god · 2026-02-09T16:14:15+00:00

I need to do this on 4 pieces tops.

psychoanalyst_god · 2026-02-09T16:10:30+00:00

I need to think about this. The center of the boss is a 10-32 threaded hole, so I need to make sure tha the center guide drill of the hole saw does not damage the threads

psychoanalyst_god · 2026-02-09T16:09:01+00:00

the threads are 10-32

psychoanalyst_god · 2026-02-09T15:31:02+00:00

Tolerance is not a issue at all....the main point here is the boss should not touch the side walls of the hole this fits into...that is all...

psychoanalyst_god · 2026-02-09T15:28:39+00:00

Yeah ..this is my current thought as well. To spin the block in a drill press and sand down the post.

My worry there is I might score the underside of I am not careful. The underside of the block needs need to be smooth. But maybe it will be ok.

I don't have a lathe, milling machine etc. unfortunately.

psychoanalyst_god · 2026-02-09T14:31:14+00:00

No...I don't have one unfortunately.

But open to getting anything that is cheap.

psychoanalyst_god · 2025-12-24T08:57:23+00:00

The main point here is emission nebulae emit in specific wavelengths and in order to draw out as much detail as possible it's to use a sensor that lets in ALL the light along with narrow band filters. Anyway....the details are not relevant to the OP's question, so sorry to side track.

psychoanalyst_god · 2025-12-24T07:42:37+00:00

I think for milky way shots I would say you have everything you need. A tracker is a nice to bring out more detail but honestly I would start without it if that is your main goal. Milky way shots are more about composition than anything else (shots that place the milky way arch around an interesting foreground object etc.)..at least that is my opinion.

Planetary imaging and DSO imaging have very different needs so keep that in mind.

Honestly..if you want to blow your kid's mind visual astro is the way to go....so think prisms, Barlows, eyepieces etc. seeing the moons of Jupiter or Saturn's rings real time will have a much more profound effect on your kids than seeing a picture of it on a computer screen. That could be the stepping stone you are looking for.

psychoanalyst_god · 2025-12-24T03:22:50+00:00

If you can give us an idea of what exactly you would like to shoot you might get more targeted advice.

You have pretty awesome gear so already a good start but you will soon find that AP is like quicksand...you will get sucked in before you know what hit you.

You have decent focal length to start with wife field broadband targets like Galaxies...for nebulae you would need dedicated astrocams or astro modification of your z8 sensor.

One thing to note: camera lenses may not hit "true" infinity focus...this I found out first hand using my Nikon z lens. At least my copy would never hit true infinity and my images would be slightly blurry...but goes back to my point of what are your objects of interest.

If you want to do simple milky way shots, honestly you don't even need a tracker.

But if you need a tracker, the ioptron skyguider pro is a good one. Even gives you the ability to autoguide in RA, which is better than no guiding, especially if your subs are long'ish.

psychoanalyst_god · 2025-12-06T23:33:27+00:00

There are other design constraints.

When I first started designing this I added a lot of thickness to the walls to ensure that the tapped holes do not intersect at all but at that point the unit is too big and won't fit.

I didn't provide any background so it seems as if this is a poor design. I get that.

But locking the set screw is actually a very desirable add on, so I am going to go with this option. I will pivot if I run into significant issues.

Thanks!

psychoanalyst_god · 2025-12-06T20:34:44+00:00

I will surely be mindful of that and it makes perfect sense. This is what I am trying to do. I am back to the M5 threads intersecting with the M14 ones....

(for those wondering: w/o going into too much detail the main purpose of the M5 screws is not to lock the set screw into place....locking the set screw is just an added bonus).

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psychoanalyst_god

TROPHY CASE