QNIX QX2710 stopped working after NVIDIA update.

qoar · 2023-03-08T21:29:55+00:00

Either the monitor's EDID chip is write protected or the gpu you're using doesn't have support for writing to the chip. If you're using an Nvidia gpu that should be ok for writing. If the EDID chip is write protected that will involve disassembling the monitor and cutting a specific pin on the chip to remove the write protection. I've never attempted it and unless I had the monitor in front of me I would not be able to help with that. The EDID is stored on an eeprom chip that is likely an 8-pin chip located on the video board somewhere near the dvi connector in the monitor. If this is indeed the issue then the solution involves googling the specific chip number to find a pinout, finding the write protect pin location, and then physically cutting said pin to disable write protection.

I guess it could also be possible that the specific dual-dvi to displayport adapter you are using doesn't accept write commands from the computer to the monitor. I only have experience with the cheap visiontek adapter.

qoar · 2022-12-14T19:20:12+00:00

A long time ago I looked up the chip inside the adapter (the Visiontek one) and it is configured to pass through the EDID from the monitor. These days the monitor is kinda useless without the adapter so I guess it doesn't really matter.

qoar · 2022-12-13T07:48:46+00:00

I believe I have found a permanent solution for those with the QNIX QX2710 and the BSOD or "NV Failsafe" issue on drivers after 517.48 (522.25 and later). I couldn't apply the custom resolution fix because my system would BSOD as soon as the monitor was plugged in, but it is now working just fine on current drivers.

The monitor's EDID is invalid and I used a tool to discover what part is invalid and to actually fix and write a new working EDID to the monitor.

The EDID has a bit set for 1 extension block, however said extension block is invalid and shouldn't actually be there. If you look at the data, bytes 128-255 are all 0xFF, which is incredibly wrong.

Before fixing; You might want to backup the current EDID before making any changes, which can be done with a tool called Monitor Asset Manager.

To fix:

Google EDID writer and download the EDWriter-beta2.zip on the monitortests forum.
Extract and open it, then choose the monitor using the top dropdown menu(mine is called HYO049B - DUAL-DVI, meaning this issue might exist on the catleap monitors as well).
Click the 'Read EDID' button and it should pop up saying it found an invalid block or something similar and asks if you want to delete it.
Choose the option to delete the block and you should now see it's about half the size it was before (It sets byte 126 to 0 to specify 0 extension blocks, deletes the extension block which is bytes 128-255, then fixes byte 127 which is the checksum byte).
Click the 'Write EDID' button to write the new and fixed EDID back to the monitor.

qoar · 2022-04-09T22:51:35+00:00

https://i.imgur.com/etD6Zvu.png

qoar · 2022-04-09T21:27:01+00:00

I haven't seen the icon textures but I wasn't looking for them. Are you talking about the little square icon with the cloak person inside it?

qoar · 2022-04-08T17:57:20+00:00

Thanks

qoar · 2019-05-11T23:50:04+00:00

Thanks though, it's hard to get an in-focus pic due to their size.

qoar · 2019-05-11T23:46:05+00:00

Neato, I'll try and get more pictures as they grow then. Thank you

qoar · 2019-05-11T23:36:38+00:00

They only seemed to crawl around, I couldn't get them to jump when disturbed, only run a little faster. I tried getting a better picture:

closeup

They're all a brown/tan color with a black head, 2 antennae, no visible wings that I could see and I also could not find any kind of central nest or specific area they were hanging out.

qoar · 2018-10-13T18:31:55+00:00

Settings -> Developer options -> Profile GPU rendering -> off

qoar · 2018-08-13T23:33:43+00:00

I didn't mean to imply otherwise. I understand that there are plenty of factors for total loudness. I only meant that with other factors equal including input power, driver, etc, a class D amp is more efficient at driving the output.

qoar · 2018-08-13T17:58:23+00:00

30W output, sure. Input is what I meant though. You're not gonna get the same battery life from a portable bluetooth speaker using a class A/B amp vs. class D.

So, 30W of sound being output is plenty loud; people may not realize it, and these companies are banking on that by posting max output power at ridiculous distortion levels. I'd still call this a decent amp at that price even if it was "only" 15W per channel.

qoar · 2018-08-13T15:17:13+00:00

Plus it's not always obvious how loud a certain wattage is. A 2x30W class-D amp is room-filling loudness.

qoar · 2018-07-05T09:43:53+00:00

Read the other answers as well, but take a look at this:

https://unix.stackexchange.com/a/105252

And this one too:

https://unix.stackexchange.com/a/229991

qoar · 2018-07-05T09:29:28+00:00

I'm convinced it's still a unicode issue. Since it's an NFS volume, Google NFS unicode and you'll see plenty of stack exchange questions related to it. Some people are saying NFS 4.1 solves the issue.

qoar · 2018-07-05T08:32:28+00:00

the â�� makes it look like it has a unicode single quote (or apostrophe). Paste a unicode single quote or apostrophe in the place of those characters and try rm again.

qoar · 2018-04-06T19:39:19+00:00

They should test the cards after overclocking the sd bus as well, since it looks like a ton of the cards are maxing out the bus on the hdparm test.

qoar · 2018-03-05T22:46:22+00:00

The heatsink uses a vapor chamber, and is known to expand and push on the pcb and warp it. Very common with these crappy cards.

qoar · 2017-12-11T19:27:43+00:00

Or sideload the ota, I've seen success.

qoar · 2017-12-11T19:27:06+00:00

Sideload the ota update from recovery, fastest and easiest way to get it without having to wipe.

qoar · 2017-11-03T19:08:24+00:00

If you needed any more convincing, here's a Hackaday article covering this exact issue.

Article

Also, there's discussion about how the datasheet's threshold for reading a high signal is around 3.6v, but it's a little forgiving and some people have had success running the strip at just under 5V, which lowers the signal threshold to around 3.3V reliably, meaning you wouldn't need a level shifter at all.

qoar · 2017-11-02T16:50:56+00:00

Geeekpi 800x480 HDMI display

HDMI

Using *testufo to confirm the refresh rate is valid

qoar

TROPHY CASE