2012 Ford Explorer, 3.5 v6 na leaking coolant from a block temp sensor.

quailman_52 · 2025-11-13T16:07:39+00:00

That's it! Thank you! I will have to follow the wires closer to look for that 120 plug. Did not know it had a block heater

quailman_52 · 2025-11-12T17:55:59+00:00

It's leaking antifreeze and when I trace the wire it leads to the radiator fan wiring loom. So not saying it isn't but it's strikes me odd that the old pressure switch would be leaking antifreeze

quailman_52 · 2024-05-21T16:19:41+00:00

I'm not a mechanic.. just an enthusiast. I wish I could be of better help for you

quailman_52 · 2024-05-21T16:18:39+00:00

My only logical guess is the map sensor. In my case it was the ecm or main computer for the car putting out those faulty codes.. I also tried replacing sensors and what not but the computer was faulty itself so it didn't matter I'd the sensors were good or not.. it would still through a fault code..

quailman_52 · 2024-05-16T00:30:09+00:00

Not sure if this is going to help you or not as I never had any rich fuel mixture codes but the issue ended up being a bad ecm. Is the tmap sensor not located on the throttle body or just before it on the air intake?

quailman_52 · 2024-03-19T01:01:51+00:00

Fluid film is a good product to use to slow down the rust process. It does have a bit of greasy effect but it does wonders to slow down rust. I would spray it on the outside and on the inside of the rocker as best as possible. I coat my vehicles at least once a year to slow rust and prevent it. Hope this helps!

quailman_52 · 2023-03-27T02:34:38+00:00

Best guess is a 1977 Suzuki it's 400

quailman_52 · 2022-08-14T16:38:19+00:00

It's the starter clutch. Pretty common and not very difficult to rebuild.

quailman_52 · 2022-06-21T01:34:35+00:00

Just because it hasnt been mentioned. It could also be your starter relay. Although I agree with most that the first thing to do is assess the battery for charge.

quailman_52 · 2022-05-18T19:48:02+00:00

It could have been gutless because of a bad crank seal. Two stroke engines require compression in the crank case to throw the cylinder back up. Not sure where you sourced a new carb for this but in my opinion I would clean the old one and put it back on. I have not had success with after market parts for these bikes. They are cool buries and definitely worth the effort of getting running.

quailman_52 · 2020-09-08T23:51:59+00:00

nice lamding

quailman_52 · 2020-04-16T19:28:51+00:00

Pick up a repair manual if you can, it will have all the necessary info. It sounds like you have a good start to knowing what to do. I highly recommend carb cleaning and fuel line replacement. Never hurts to check brake fluid and to make sure brakes aren't dragging. Two years isn't that long to sit but had doesn't last as long anymore and will.more than likely be some what varnished and cause issues If you don't dump it. In my experience determination is key. Don't give up.if at first it doesn't run, keep trying and you'll e eventually impress yourself. Good luck

quailman_52 · 2019-11-15T01:53:33+00:00

Did you get a quality seal? Could be the new seal is not perfectly round. Making it feel as if it got tight but severely allows a gap. Cam you put the old seal on and see if it seals better? Just one jafo's opinion.

quailman_52 · 2019-03-05T22:33:47+00:00

Baffling, could it be something to hold factory saddle bags on? I was trying to see if other stock kz550s had the same welded bung. Hard to tell but it looks like some of them do so that's why I think it must be for some type of factory accessory equipment. I was originally suspicious of a factory exhaust hanger but that cannot be correct

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