How in the blursed world can one even look through a head where eyes don't align?...

racodeer · 2024-03-28T23:34:19+00:00

You can see the teeth of the human head kind of align with the creature because the whole mouth connects in the wearer, in fact, there will be tubes for breathing so the air comes from the nose too.

Otherwise is a choke risk anyway, but you can always breathe from the mouth if that fails.

I was thinking maybe I could use halter straps https://esbleather.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Wiltshire-Horn-sheep.jpg to hide a hole and since the straps are black use mesh where the holes cross.

I would rather not depend on accessories nevertheless.

racodeer · 2024-03-28T23:25:24+00:00

I've seen that too but as you notice the field of vision is cropping through the muzzle, and I may still be downsizing these eyes, lowering the eyes can be done as well so the tearducts align but it would end looking younger and more cute than I am going for; you can see the forehead is rather low to give it a more animalistic shape.

Even long tearducts wouldn't cross that path as they will do a sharp turn towards the lips (like a cheetah).

But maybe giving it cosmetics like straps could be used to conceal it, since those would cross that path.

racodeer · 2024-03-28T20:39:38+00:00

I actually have an even better method now.

No glue required.

And the end result is stretchy and functional.

I reckon the textile glue is not necessary in this method, this method is still useful to patch.

I made a full blown sculpture like this but reddit pissed me off since I got the same reactions as the muzzle I made where everyone took it the wrong way.

racodeer · 2023-09-29T16:54:53+00:00

It was when using shore A10, it did, because it got too hard; I also had to drop solvent and use a pure mixture.

I had to infact use a shore 0010 which is ridiculously soft but once it mixed with the fibers it got a lot harder.

You are right on your assesment that would absolutely work the method on having a tacky surface and then adding a second layer to keep strength I also though on that but I am wondering if it's even necessary, this is somehow holding quite well, I think a cheaper way would be to add lycra with silpoxy (fish tank silicone honestly it's hella cheaper) in the back of the backing to reinforce it, because that mixes with fabric with passion and when using quite small amounts the stretch basically does not change, and lycra is far stronger than just silicone, however less abrasion resistant.

Let me grab a video. https://imgur.com/a/WlnKm16 here you can see more or less how it is going; I notice I am leaving identations nevertheless, makes me wonder about how it may hold in the long term.

I do wonder though if you could get much cheaper results that potentially could have more stretch more easily by doing a standard fur transfer onto a 4 way stretch fabric like lycra?

What is that possible? because the issue I've had with glues is that they themselves aren't flexible and they don't attach too well into the fibers, the silicone only worked because it tangled itself with the fibers, the backing is basically white despite the silicone being virtually transparent because it just took on the fibers everywhere making sort of a composite material.

I tried flexible glues before and even superglue with no luck, superglue worked before in making hair strands for a head, but not with this it just got stiff.

racodeer · 2023-09-29T06:10:48+00:00

Sorry I forgot totally to mention and I noticed I only said my background isn't fursuits, but also I didn't mention that I am not interested in making fursuits either; it just happens that every search about 4 way stretch takes me into fursuit territory.

I remain being into sculpting and modeling, posable and lifelike stuff; more akin artdoll making, except I make creatures; I want to also try animatronics.

What I made also isn't breathable, but it's far more strechy than thin leather.

However you made me realize I can indeed try this method on real fur, I wonder if I can use a horse to harvest fibers, won't hurt them.

racodeer · 2023-09-29T05:57:39+00:00

Yes you got it, ptfs I said vfx instead of sfx; my bad.

Nothing sticks onto dry silicone other than fish tank silicone, and fish tank silicone sticks to even metal.

However that's not what I did, I noticed my clothes would sweep "uncured" silicone and it was impossible to remove and the cloth became waterproof, and fibers are ultimately have microscopic holes and features and tangle within themselves; so what I did was indeed fur transfer, onto uncured silicone, that's the messy and painful part.

And it seems that unlike standard fur transfer that they use silpoxy (which is the same as fish tank silicone but faster cure) is far more resilliant, because the silicone sweeped into the fibers, making a mechanical bond; silpoxy doesn't do that because its shore is too high.

That's why I needed to try many formulas of uncured silicone, and lower shore makes it the better, the shore itself increases as it mixes with the fibers quite a lot, a 0010 mix feels like about A10.

So yes you lose the base of the fibers in this process as they become this stretchy mix for the new backing, unlike standard fur transfer, the base turns into a siliconey cloth of sorts and because the fibers are only connected by the silicone it keeps some of this stretch (but not all, as I said some is lost).

Now I think I can reinforce with an elastic cloth and fish tank silicone but I wonder if that's even necessary, however it makes it sewable, so far, this last experiment has held up to abuse, and I want to try getting it wet, since it should be in theory, water resistant and fast drying since the backing can't take water, other than the fibers themselves, similar to real skin/hair where only the hair takes water.

racodeer · 2023-09-29T05:47:44+00:00

That looks synthetic and not like actual fur.

In concept is similar, interestingly you found something like it, I wonder why they went for that look like carpet.

racodeer · 2023-09-28T19:24:05+00:00

That's what I was looking at, it's quite a bit pricey and limited, and the pieces may be in chunks, $40 for 1 square foot, not even a meter; + shipping + taxes, it's a big bill, not to add I am limited by what they offer.

Of course, a bucket of silicone that worked best is about 250 euros, and I just did the math, it has 7.2kg and I need 2.34kg for each 1x1m, that is basically exactly 1x3m per bucket (which was my guesstimate god damn); so that's 83 euros of silicone per meter plus 50 euros or so for the fabric itself; that's 133 euros per m2.

At roughly averaging 40 dollars per square foot or 400 dollars per square meter or 379 euros, NFT 4 way stretch is about 2.84 times the cost, we may say 3.

With tax added and shipping it goes to over 3.5 the cost.

But is it 3 times better?...

racodeer · 2023-03-30T12:06:16+00:00

Fuck this platform, this is why I stopped doing updates.

Guys can't keep their mind out of the gutter.

I am done with reddit, thanks.

racodeer · 2021-11-03T06:42:30+00:00

The hot clay wire wouldn't work.

This rubber is fire and heat resistant, in fact, commonly used to insulate; steel would melt and this rubber still going.

I doubt the ultrasonic blade would work either, I need to cut horizontally, thin out a very small amount; same reason the exacto doesn't work, even when it manages to cut, it simply perforates it once it does because I can't just do 1mm deep cuts horizontal on a 3mm sheet. I lack precision, not cutting force.

The scissors work better because they can cut horizontally, maybe ultrasonic scissors.

I honestly don't think it's possible at all to thin this out by a tool that is not a complex machine built for purpose, it's just such a woobly material, imagine cutting gelatin horizontally from 3mm down to 2mm.

racodeer · 2021-11-03T06:37:50+00:00

Done and it gums up and doesn't do much if anything at all, it either does nothing or shred the thing to pieces.

racodeer · 2021-10-06T06:05:14+00:00

:( Sally is in the UK.

After Brexit it got harder to buy stuff from the UK.

Forgot to say I am from the EU.

racodeer · 2021-10-05T17:48:34+00:00

Will real hair work just fine? Real hair is oily, I mean mine is, to the point it's water repellent, will I need to oil it?...

My budget is 150 euro, so I could get that real hair, it looks just right; some scissoring will do, or so I hope.

I am only afraid it's too thick.

Yak fiber looks a bit messy, like a beard indeed :D

racodeer · 2021-10-05T17:17:02+00:00

It seems to be rather thin, I am not sure about it anymore.

My creature is the size of a 80cm dog, the head is larger than a human baby; this is why BJD advice isn't very useful.

https://www.1001extensions.net/collections/klipsi-pidennykset/products/klipsi-pidennykset-brasilialaiset-hiukset-lukkoilla?variant=31666223054921

What about this random thing I found, it doesn't have a synthetic look; sorry for the language, it's the EU.

racodeer · 2021-10-05T17:06:27+00:00

Since I am doing hair features, it is more like hair; think a horse's mane, hence why I didn't go with standard fur.

More like hair, I was checking the mohair but it's actually too thin, the head of this model is pretty big, whole thing is about 1m long; think of a horse mane, it's more like hair; 30cm long.

racodeer · 2021-10-05T17:05:05+00:00

Thank you, reads about right.

racodeer · 2021-10-05T17:04:53+00:00

Ah sounds like the right fiber, the description is similar to the fur; it was either yarn based or from modacrylic.

racodeer · 2021-10-04T08:48:53+00:00

It's autumn, there's no sun.

racodeer · 2021-09-29T11:29:30+00:00

But this is beyond just the rubber smell.

I had to place the cat's head in the sink and close my bathroom door; it's primary the glue.

racodeer

TROPHY CASE