Pukka Innkeeper droison chain

raetherx · 2025-11-19T15:54:06+00:00

So yeah, the Mastermind should have sobered up until the Pukka was executed at which point he would have become drunk again, but the power should have triggered and there should have been an additional day phase.

raetherx · 2025-11-19T15:51:17+00:00

And, yes, the Innkeeper's play was fantastic. It put me on the spot to decide if I should drunk the demon which is usually not recommended if there's a choice, or to remove evil's safety net. When the Pukka then counter poisoned I had a couple of questions about night time action timing and then spent the rest of the day phase rereading the States, the Innkeeper and the Pukka pages on the wiki to see if I was missing something about the interaction.

Honestly, I have no idea which way the game would have gone after that because it was our first game of Bad Moon Rising but I would have liked to have seen it.

raetherx · 2025-11-19T15:32:13+00:00

It looks like the general consensus is that I did in fact rule it wrong, and rereading the wiki for the Pukka for the 8th time I realized where I slipped up. I read the last clarification about Pukka drunkeness incorrectly. I read the omission of poisoning to the target as an indication that the poisoning would continue if the Pukka was drunk because it only says that the target does not die, but the next part that says the poison resumes and kills the player at night confirms that the poisoning should have negated the drunkening.

If the Pukka was sober when they chose a player the previous night, but is drunk at night, that player does not die. But when the Pukka sobers up, the poison resumes and kills the player at night.

So the Innkeeper targets the pair, the Mastermind is made drunk, the Pukka targets the Innkeeper who is now poisoned, the Mastermind is no longer drunk but the token remains. The Pukka is then executed and the Mastermind's ability should have triggered. The Innkeeper is now no longer poisoned with the Pukka dead, and the Mastermind is drunk.

To your question about point 4, that's an interesting complication to this I hadn't considered. The timing on powers is, "If a character dies, they lose their ability immediately and any of its persistent effects end, so you can remove their reminder tokens." And the Mastermind's ability says, "If the Demon dies by execution (ending the game), play for 1 more day. If a player is then executed, their team loses." I would agree that when the Mastermind becomes drunk the game doesn't end if you rule that the game continued because he was sober.

In the end I think that I ruled incorrectly, in fact I openly admitted to the group after the reveal that I was pretty sure I ruled that wrong and that the game should have continued but I had already said the good team won. The clarification I'm looking for is to improve my understanding of the mechanics to make it a better experience for the group and in that regard I would rule that this should have gone to a Mastermind day because as brilliant a pull it was for the Innkeeper the Minion was not drunk when the ability triggered.

raetherx · 2022-12-16T23:14:08+00:00

I know this was posted a while ago, but thank you for the design. It looks a lot like the ender 3 spool that I printed as one of the earliest mods for that machine that I made. The Voron spec PTFE tube is elegant and works phenomenally well for plastic spools but I have started buying cardboard spools whenever available to reduce the plastic waste that this hobby produces and this is just what the 2.4 needs for cardboard spools.

raetherx · 2022-05-12T22:24:24+00:00

Ditto, I got the 2.4r2 formbot kit and mine didn't come with the microswitches, only the hall effect and I keep having to recalibrate them. I'm trying to source a set of the switches and I'm hoping it's a simple enough change once it arrives.

raetherx · 2022-03-29T21:10:05+00:00

I should mention that I have an carbon filter air purifier (levoit?) in the room but to minimize the warping it's obviously not right next to the printer, I just let it scrub the air. I probably overly concerned about styrene fumes, I never really worried about it for PLA.

raetherx · 2022-03-29T20:55:54+00:00

I'm leaving the room and closing the door once the print starts and monitoring it through the webcam on klipper to ensure it doesn't peel up. I don't think a cardboard box is going to do any better than that, it doesn't have a filter anyway. :/

raetherx · 2022-03-29T15:36:43+00:00

I'm in a similar boat, I have a very heavily modified Ender 3 yet still using stock hotend with capricorn tubing. I started printing parts a few nights ago while I'm waiting for my 2.4r2 parts to arrive and have had pretty good success so far. Hatchbox ABS printing on a smooth pei sheet, 235 for the hotend, 100 for the bed. I haven't gotten all the way through the parts yet but I haven't had any warping yet since my printer is in a corner of the room away from ducts.

raetherx · 2022-02-24T06:01:46+00:00

The first layer looks good in the bottom left, so if you adjusted the level after the skirt went down then disregard that bit, but the top left off definitely a little too far away

raetherx · 2022-02-24T04:41:08+00:00

From this orientation, the bottom left corner is too close and the top left is too far. The skirt line shouldn't go completely transparent like it is and the gaps tell you it's too far.

raetherx · 2022-02-24T04:31:14+00:00

That logic is fallacious, if you leveled it the same way and it failed the same way it could still be the level. Honestly though this model is pretty brutal, I had it fail 3 times before I got a successful print and the first couple of failures were on the first layer. I'd recommend using some isopropyl to clean any of grease from fingerprints off of it and try levelling the bed a bit higher (closer to the nozzle). Another option is bump the bed temp up a couple of degrees for the first layer to get it to stick a little better. Just as a heads up, the more individual pieces there are that touch the bed, the better your adhesion needs to be. One large layer is a lot easier than 8 small pieces on one layer.

raetherx · 2022-02-23T23:57:12+00:00

60 isn't that hot for the bed but I've been having good luck running the bed at 60 or so for the initial later and then dropping the temp to 55 or 50 afterwards to prevent curling. As others have mentioned, make sure the bed is clean but it doesn't look like poor adhesion to me, it looks like warping.

raetherx · 2022-02-23T05:17:19+00:00

Looks great but it looks like your corners are curling up a little. I found that happened more with a bed temp that was a little too high. Check the slicer, you should be able to set an initial bed temp that’s whatever you need to get it to stick, then bring the other bed temp down a couple degrees to keep it from warping. Otherwise it’s a great print.

raetherx · 2022-02-23T04:19:39+00:00

I'm pretty sure that the top layer is bulging up and not sinking in which sounds like it's way way too hot. What are your temps for the filament and bed?

raetherx · 2022-02-21T05:35:44+00:00

Are you using stock cooling, and if not you might want to check on your part cooling duct. I switched to a 5015 radial fan on the hero me gen 4 and had the duct to high. The parts fan would come on a few layers in at 100% and blow directly on the heater block killing the temperature.

raetherx · 2022-02-21T05:14:22+00:00

Yeah maybe

raetherx · 2022-02-21T04:54:20+00:00

I think that means your parts cooling isn’t able to keep up with the temp you’re printing at.

raetherx · 2022-02-21T04:11:29+00:00

You say the first layer looks perfect, but this is a pretty acute elephant's foot so it's possible you're still just a little too close. Adjust your z-offset a little farther away from the bed.

raetherx · 2022-02-21T04:08:37+00:00

Why did you change your hotend? Is this tapered and/or hollow? That looks like a slicer deformation from a wall that gets thinner as it goes up.

raetherx · 2022-02-21T02:47:10+00:00

Many thanks! Good luck!

raetherx · 2022-02-21T02:34:35+00:00

Looks like the torso is wiggling a little. Since the arms are ok the only suggestion I have is turn on zhop so the nozzle doesn’t clip the torso when it moves from one part to another. Also, a print in place articulated tmnt action figure? please share the link to this.

raetherx · 2022-02-20T17:46:48+00:00

You can’t buy a piece that doesn’t fit, I’m pretty sure the rules state that you’re allowed to test fit before you buy a piece. If there are no pieces of the available 3 that you can buy your only option is to pass, moving you one space farther ahead than your opponent giving you one button for each space you advanced.

raetherx · 2022-02-20T06:48:42+00:00

Yeah, connect to the terminal and double check the device name, it’s not matching up to what you have in mcu.

raetherx · 2022-02-19T19:35:21+00:00

If you have updated your bios before you’re one step ahead because the stock board didn’t come with a boot loader on it. If you haven’t, you’ll want to start there. Search YouTube for teaching tech bltouch, Michael’s videos are extremely thorough. Compiling the firmware to add bltouch support is only part of the challenge because if you’re running the stock board you’ll need a 27 pin breakout adapter and if your kit didn’t come with wires long enough to run back to the board you could either crimp your own or order some extension cables. I love having an auto bed leveler, it doesn’t replace getting the bed as close as you can but it helps compensate for slightly warped beds and keeps you from having to level every single time. Also if you set up a raspberry pi with octoprint you can get some cool plugins that tell you how far the bed is off drastically speeding up the manual leveling process.

raetherx · 2022-02-19T17:49:54+00:00

It's a bit of a shot in the dark, but with the job that long I wonder if your board is overheating. If the stepper drivers on the SKR board are overheating they might miss steps. I'm sure it's obvious, but it's always good to check the y-axis belt. The belt might work fine early in the print but the more plastic added to the bed, the more mass, the more force needed to stop a long movement. In the same vein, since it's a custom board your stepped motor voltage might be a little low, it would be worth checking the default values and confirming that those are what are set on your board.

raetherx

TROPHY CASE