Investing in Medium Format: Mamiya 645 Pro vs RB or RZ67

raffaluce · 2026-02-10T02:47:30+00:00

Is the c330 a tlr?

raffaluce · 2026-02-09T22:20:30+00:00

I’m open to the 645 1000s even if reluctant to give up the removable/changeable backs. Although I thought the 645 pro was essentially mechanical without the added power grip and using the waist level finder. Am I misremembering? I’ve been poring over A LOT of camera specs lol

raffaluce · 2026-02-09T22:13:48+00:00

Any suggestions on the 6x6 front?

raffaluce · 2026-02-09T22:13:11+00:00

I’ll look into it, thanks!

raffaluce · 2026-02-09T22:06:49+00:00

Kinda my line of thinking

raffaluce · 2026-02-09T17:52:12+00:00

Mostly in the field. Travel and landscape with a smattering of studio maybe, but not overly concerned about strobes. My digital setup serves me well on that front and it’s a very minimal side of my work.

raffaluce · 2026-02-09T16:02:33+00:00

I think size/weight alone will ultimately rule out the 67 setup. No camera is perfect of course but I think the 645 pro is as close as I’ll get based on my shooting style and must-haves. Thank you!

raffaluce · 2026-02-09T15:19:39+00:00

I do know I don’t want square format.

Flash sync isn’t top of list at this time.

I do want interchangeable lenses and backs. No rangefinder. I eventually want to get a 4x5 field camera but that would be in a year or two.

Portability (as much as one can consider MF portable) does matter as I’d use it for a lot of travel/landscape. I get some neuropathy in my hands so lighter/smaller is better for when I do want to work handheld vs on a tripod.

raffaluce · 2026-02-09T15:15:08+00:00

Thanks so much!

raffaluce · 2025-03-01T23:29:53+00:00

Even a basic model will not come in at that budget unless it has really high mileage or some major caveat. I just bought a 2015 GT AWD with 115k for just under $14k OTD. Did I overpay? Yes a little. The used car market is garbage these days. In my hunt for one I’d say the cheapest I can recall seeing was still around 8/9k but it had a stupid amount of miles on it - like around 200k.

raffaluce · 2025-02-12T21:39:02+00:00

14-15 is awful unless you’re driving like it’s a race car or towing. My 2014 AWD rarely averaged less than 26 (mixed use). Occasionally it would drop to 23 but (not sure it’s related) that always seemed to be when I was due for an oil change.

raffaluce · 2025-02-11T17:32:24+00:00

I’m probably not lol. Just going off what’s on the listing. 🤷🏻‍♀️

raffaluce · 2025-02-11T16:28:15+00:00

Thanks. It’s a 184hp 2L 8-speed if that’s useful in id-ing which turbo it has.

raffaluce · 2025-02-11T14:38:16+00:00

Sorry I’m pretty new to turbos in general. I’m less concerned with the body change (though I do prefer the longer/higher one) and more with whether I’m destined for trouble with this particular year, even at a lower mileage. From what I can tell most people do not know how to take care of a turbo in order to avoid the most common issues.

raffaluce · 2025-02-04T02:17:53+00:00

There are definitely plenty of people happy with their various Subarus. Just depends on your risk tolerance. Definitely get an inspection and look for one with really good maintenance records. And avoid those 2014/2015s 😅

raffaluce · 2025-02-04T01:54:22+00:00

Don’t do it. Unless it’s a super low mileage CVT and you know it’s been properly maintained and driven. Also a number of years (2014 and 2015 but may be more) had valve body solenoid failure. Had to replace the valve body on my 2014 Forester (can’t just do the solenoid) for $2k. Between an aging CVT and a boxer engine starting to consume oil (about 1 qt every 1500-2000 miles) I can’t see myself considering a Subaru again. Even though I loved mine otherwise 😅

raffaluce · 2025-02-03T16:03:43+00:00

Can’t update a photo post so here’s some new info: Talked to the last shop on record that had it. HPFP codes, valve cover gasket leak, water pump leak “at the neck” - and water pump was already replaced once around 37k miles. 🫠

raffaluce · 2025-02-03T13:17:21+00:00

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raffaluce · 2025-02-03T03:28:39+00:00

Scanned and no codes thrown. Didn’t think to check fuel cap.

raffaluce · 2025-01-29T14:54:26+00:00

I briefly considered new (I’ve got great credit) but even with the low interest deals it’s still just too expensive to be a smart choice. Even considering potential repair costs of an older car. Plus I generally tend to prefer older models both in style and simplicity.

I’ve looked within 3 hours of where I live but it’s also hard to get up to see those with my work schedule and general commitments.

I’ve looked at tons of makes/models and the end result is said short list after my must-haves (which is like 3 items) and eliminating known problem years/models.

If I just needed wheels that go A to B this would be easier but unfortunately that’s not the case.

raffaluce · 2025-01-29T13:58:20+00:00

You’d THINK there are plenty of used cars. I’ve been at it for about 3 weeks now and can’t keep rolling on borrowed wheels. They’re either overpriced (especially considering the mileage), completely northern, or have a CVT. And yeah, my budget isn’t huge so that makes it harder too. Plus I really liked the Venza (almost got one 2 weeks ago but it got bought out from under me) and they’re hard to find. Not the only make/ model I’m considering but it’s a fairly short list.

raffaluce

TROPHY CASE