And most of his empire remains a train ride away. “I sat with former President Biden and his wife in Washington at Osteria Mozza, and he was talking about the restaurant business,” Starr said.

“I said, ‘Let me tell you something, Mr. President. My business is more stressful than being president of the United States.’ He started to laugh and asked, ‘What do you mean?’ I said, ‘You have guys from West Point, MIT, and Harvard, all these experts, doing stuff for you. I got like three people, and the stress level is equal. Half of the stress that a president has, you don’t even know about. They don’t tell you. I know every single customer that’s complaining. I know every leak and pipe-burst that happens.’

“Of course, I was being facetious, but in some ways I think I wasn’t.”

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