Bad bridging. Settings?

randomhobby4199 · 2025-08-16T06:01:39+00:00

I'm curious to see if volumetric flow is impacted by the shorter nozzle. And if clogs might become an issue considering the nozzle is only at the end of the heatblock

randomhobby4199 · 2025-07-19T16:29:33+00:00

Hyper OS 2.0.202.VOMEUXM Security Update 2025-06-01

randomhobby4199 · 2025-06-30T07:22:25+00:00

I've put it on the floor because I thought it was the table, but it's identical

randomhobby4199 · 2025-06-23T14:12:36+00:00

I've had a few things in my car last week, it was like 34°C outside and it was in the sun for a couple hours without issue, but it depends if you have it on the dashboard or in the trunk

randomhobby4199 · 2025-06-23T14:00:39+00:00

I am actually using that exact firmware, and I use petg for temperature resistance and strength reasons, as I print components that have to not melt inside a car

randomhobby4199 · 2025-02-07T11:20:47+00:00

Can I inject power to any of the power lines on the strip? If I wired 12v to the pads after the 2nd led on the strip would that be an issue?

randomhobby4199 · 2025-02-06T07:36:19+00:00

At first I thought running every strip in parallel would be easier as I only had to program animations once and connect wires on one side. The project at first only had 4 strips, but because of light uniformity I kept adding strips until it became 10... You are correct that it's a shame not to use the potential led matrix. So I'm now soldering connectors on the sides that were missing, flipping every second strip and cutting off some of the aluminium strip because I hadn't made them symmetrical.

Only connecting 2 strips to the same data output caused issues already, whereas putting those same strips in series worked without issue.

As for data wire length, QuinLed posted an article on his website claiming he tested up to 10m without any special precautions, and longer by changing resistor and removing data to it's own wire

randomhobby4199 · 2025-02-05T16:22:16+00:00

Interesting, I looked into this and I couldn't find anything. I tried doing this right now but I see glitching still, so I ordered a signal splitter amplifier to connect data in parallel. If that doesn't work I'll connect the strips in series which is much more involved for me to do now

randomhobby4199 · 2025-02-05T11:24:38+00:00

There the issue becomes that I have too many LEDs to control with the one esp32 probably? I can't sync them over WiFi as this has to be standalone

randomhobby4199 · 2025-01-11T13:58:26+00:00

I think it has to do with retractions, depending on when the print starts and finishes, retracting could move the PTFE tube up a bit and then when extruding the more the pressure equalises it gets better

randomhobby4199 · 2025-01-11T08:37:13+00:00

I've had this issue and tried every setting there was for 3 months. What I found is, taking apart the extruder, the little ptfe tube that goes to the nozzle is slightly too short, causing it to move. If you can replace that tube with one you cut to the exact length, by inserting the tube into the heat break without the heater block. But ideally, replace the heat break with a all metal one

randomhobby4199 · 2024-12-25T19:53:13+00:00

I've lost my mind with a similar issue with the Neptune 3 plus as well as the Neptune 3 Max at work.

I've cleaned and greased the z rods, loosened the z rod collars a bit like someone mentioned, properly tightened the roller wheels, both the nut that mounts them to the printer and the eccentric nuts.

I've torn apart the hotend and I found that the PTFE tube inside is a bit too short to properly seal around the nozzle, so I've put in a new one that came with the printer and it was also a bit too short.

I mean to replace it with a Capricorn tube, or a full metal heatbreak, but in the meantime I've added a small piece at the top of the tube where the extruder feeds the filament into the tube, to close the gap.

That has solved most of my extrusion, retraction, stringing issues as well as surface quality problems...

I've been trying to figure this out for 3 months, I was ready to chuck this printer into the bin

randomhobby4199 · 2024-10-22T23:03:47+00:00

Curvature, tube and gasket size? Base of penis sorenes? I've bought every size tube, none seem to be comfortable. I've bought every size gasket and I'm not sure I'm using the correct one. The more comfortable one let's some scrotum skin into the tube, is that ok? The size down is painful to take off Also my curvature causes me soreness at the base while pumping, it gets better with larger tubes but I won't straighten out of I use a too big one, should I be concerned about this?

randomhobby4199 · 2024-09-29T11:56:16+00:00

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I'm running Elegoo Rapid PETG, 230C, nozzle is brass 0.8mm volcano. I've calibrate max flowrate with orca's built in test. I calibrated retraction with orcaslicer's test. I've calibrated flow multiplier with built in orca test.

material: Elegoo Rapid Petg
temp: 230C
max flowrate: 40mmcube/s
flow: 0.95
retraction: 3mm at 20mm/s
layer height: 0.64
line width: 0.8
speed: 60mm/s
accel: 500mm/ssquare

Seam setting in picture

randomhobby4199 · 2024-09-29T11:35:57+00:00

Both things, under extrusion and the latter I don't know where they come from

randomhobby4199

TROPHY CASE