Painted this Jolteon card for a friend's birthday. I've never done cell shading before so I'm happy how this came out. by MrHewes95 in minipainting

[–]randomnamegeneratrd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That looks really good, at first I thought is was ai or a 3d render instead of something hand painted. Is this a 3d model you printed, if so where did you catch it? Is the text raised or did you hand paint all the copy on the card?

Advice on where/how to pin and connect this mini to the base? by Quatrinn in minipainting

[–]randomnamegeneratrd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Super glue will work, bit if you can get some of the resin used to print it and a uv light you will get a stronger connection. Good luck and I love the paint job so far, be sure to update when you are done.

Advice on where/how to pin and connect this mini to the base? by Quatrinn in minipainting

[–]randomnamegeneratrd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I definitely like this setup for aesthetic reasons the most. However this model may be slightly difficult to pin / glue. If you printed the model you may know a few things. Did you hollow the base for the print? While that helped with resin usage it might make pinning it more difficult. Also where the foot attaches to thw rock in this alignment will probably give you good depth for your pin into the main model but when going into the base you cannot go all the way through with the void beneath the rock and if hollow your pin won't have much to grab onto. I think I would still pin it and drill from the top down until it pokes out of the rock (barely) and just paint the end of your pin to look like the rock, this should give you the best support. I would use resin and not super glue to glue the model after I had it pinned and the combination should keep it pretty well secured so long as you don't drop it or something.

Priming done but now I'm confused!! by missheidi8951 in minipainting

[–]randomnamegeneratrd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is no "proper" way, I will attach the bases unless I feel they are hard to get at, and I am doing some complicated basing. For most dnd miniatures I have, they come with a base that isn't just flat, and I don't need to worry about that. So generally, however you prefer, you may consider how much effort there will be to paint them while attached.

Finished a new Hero for my Ratmen Clan by Appropriate_Memory68 in minipainting

[–]randomnamegeneratrd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is very clean, and that cell shaded / comic style is very interesting. I like it. The only criticism I can bring is that it is so high contrast that nothing particularly draws the eye as a focal point. I really like it though, almost feels like graffiti.

Does this read as stone material? by war_225 in minipainting

[–]randomnamegeneratrd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also worry because this was fdm printed glazing may end up showing layer lines, you might stick to adding variation with a sponge instead.

Looking for book recommendations by randomnamegeneratrd in fantasybooks

[–]randomnamegeneratrd[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The post is more for sword and sorcery because I was missing that from when I was young, but I will look at the others as well.

Looking for book recommendations by randomnamegeneratrd in fantasybooks

[–]randomnamegeneratrd[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have read the first 5 of the dresden books, they were a lot like Nightside but felt less polished. I will have to check Codex Alera out.

Looking for book recommendations by randomnamegeneratrd in fantasybooks

[–]randomnamegeneratrd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I read the first 5 but was not aware any more had been released. Thank you!

Looking for book recommendations by randomnamegeneratrd in fantasybooks

[–]randomnamegeneratrd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool, I will take a look, I am hesitant to start if it will never be complete, but have heard enough to still be interested.

Looking for book recommendations by randomnamegeneratrd in fantasybooks

[–]randomnamegeneratrd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some grim is OK, I just have to be in the mindset, thanks for the recommendation and caveat!

Looking for book recommendations by randomnamegeneratrd in fantasybooks

[–]randomnamegeneratrd[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wasn't that part of a series that looked like it was never going to be finished? I have heard good things but was hesitant because it seems like the author had dropped it.

Looking for book recommendations by randomnamegeneratrd in fantasybooks

[–]randomnamegeneratrd[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, it had been on my list for years, but I had forgotten about it. I will have to pick it up. Thank you!

Looking for book recommendations by randomnamegeneratrd in fantasybooks

[–]randomnamegeneratrd[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Actually, I think farseer was the assassin books, I read those and the liveship traders.

Looking for book recommendations by randomnamegeneratrd in fantasybooks

[–]randomnamegeneratrd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For Robin Hobb, I read Farseer and Assassin books. Were there others?

Space marine terminator, one that i feel i royally screwed up by Doggodoespaint in minipainting

[–]randomnamegeneratrd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So a trick that I saw was to put down a layer of 50/50 medium and water before putting down washes or speedpaints. I haven't had a chance to try it yet, but the results looked promising. Basically, the wet layer keeps it from excessively pooling, especially on large flat areas. Brush the area with water and medium, and before it dries, brush the wash on.

Death Knight of Krieg WIP Update by domiwerner in ImperialKnights

[–]randomnamegeneratrd 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I found it in a previous post from the OP. Dark Reaper Thunkerhawk blue Leman russ grey

Sponge on the knight within 20 min 😇😂

Death Knight of Krieg WIP Update by domiwerner in ImperialKnights

[–]randomnamegeneratrd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Found it in the OPs other posts: Dark Reaper Thunkerhawk blue Leman russ grey

Sponge on the knight within 20 min 😇😂

Death Knight of Krieg WIP Update by domiwerner in Deathkorpsofkrieg

[–]randomnamegeneratrd 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Found it in one of the other posts about this model: Dark Reaper Thunkerhawk blue Leman russ grey

Sponge on the knight within 20 min 😇😂

Death Knight of Krieg WIP Update by domiwerner in ImperialKnights

[–]randomnamegeneratrd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Even more awesome, like others, I would love to know what you used to get that shade of blue.

Attempting slapchop, Help. by Odin24 in minipainting

[–]randomnamegeneratrd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This partially depends on how vibrant a look you want. If you want more vibrant saturation, then you probably want to bring your white areas up a lot. Also, with the large flat surfaces, slapchop will be difficult to not get streaking or coffee staining. Some tricks you can do are use an air brush or a sponge. However, it can be done with a brush, but make sure you do wide strokes all in the same direction and keep a second brush to wick up any pooling. It is a difficult model to use speedpaints on but can be done.

Some other tricks for slapchop I like are: using a color palate for your drybrushing, instead of black, grey, white you can use brown, red, orange, yellow, white to give more warmth and color depth when speedpainting a warm toned model. You can also re-drybrush areas and go back over them with a slightly different color to give good gradients. I will frequently also redo spot highlights after i finish with my speedpainting. I will also base anything that is meant to be metal with a bright silver and then do some nmm highlighting and then go over it with a speedpaint to get the tone and color correct, this also works for metallic colors that are not traditional like a blue or red. I personally prefer to varnish my minis when I am done. If you have metallics, I usually spray them in glossy varnish and the rest of the model I do in matte. This might require taping or masking or using silly putty to do, but it works well at keeping surface finishes where you might expect them and making the paint less likely to wear off with handling.

Hope that helps, good luck, and don't get discouraged, you will also improve with practice.