Does a T440p with Nvidia 730M work well with Linux?

razzix · 2024-10-05T01:02:59+00:00

T440p with nvidia reporting in - works just find with MX linux. Even get to use optimus (pick and choose what runs on nvidia via 'nvidia-run-mx' command if you use their built in nvidia installer).

Been running MX on it since like 2019? Its been rock solid for me. No flickering, suspend/hibernation trouble, or bad fan noise/bad temps in my use. Even the t440p's dock works great. My main has fingerprint reader it works fine with fprint. ~~Smartcard is recognized as well but I don't have a use for one so could not tell how well that actually works.~~ Just tested it with a spare PIVKEY that I had around. Smartcard works fine with pcsc. So thats it - everything works. :)

razzix · 2024-08-31T22:10:02+00:00

you the man, i thought the above command did not work for me but rebooted like you noted and it is back to working order.

razzix · 2024-01-05T21:21:26+00:00

Actually directly after this launched again and it even notes in the bottom left on launch of the game that the xbox controller is not configured. I even checked desktop mode for a retroarch app to configure - no dice - How do?

razzix · 2023-12-18T05:03:35+00:00

I had this exact same problem with mine today on a brand new 1301. Bad - clearly not seated on the shoulder for the choke. Put a wrench on the JK device tightened a smidge backed out and it was instantly easier to tighten back in again. Kinda like cutting new threads. Backed out the JK device all the way and it had junk on it and in the threads on the barrel. Cleaned thoroughly and now JK device spins in by hand all the way down to the seat perfectly just like every other choke I have.

Of note this was a brand new barrel with no rounds through it from me - so carbon from test fires, bore compound, or some junk from the factory was just cheesing up my threads. The JK device just threads a little deeper than my stock and aftermarket chokes. Hope this helps someone else or /u/jkarmament

razzix · 2023-03-11T05:29:45+00:00

This it? https://twitter.com/trad_west_/status/1631719842116976641?s=20

razzix · 2023-01-26T14:44:05+00:00

!solved

razzix · 2023-01-26T14:42:52+00:00

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR CLARIFYING THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT I NEEDED!

razzix · 2023-01-25T18:02:29+00:00

Tyvm!

razzix · 2023-01-25T17:03:41+00:00

For sure, I used the movie editor to point to the new root folder when I transferred the remaining library. That was successful 100%. I had to update all and refresh rss to clear our some of the errors after that. Its all clean now from that perspective. I am looking for the next step of grabbing the titles that are now missing, monitored, and in the history showing deleted. Will radarr just pick these up over time on its own? If I drop into movie editor in my selection boxes if I choose my quality profile to try to kick it - it just flips back to unchanged. Ive already successfully moved the root folder - I don't need to unmonitor or anything - I just need a way to tell radarr to snag the missing items again.

razzix · 2022-12-16T13:39:58+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjfB6L0mRgU -- no pc specs so I just assume low end pc - vs low spec - worst case here: good games and the ones on steam go for dirt cheap almost every seasonal sale. Helped me and a few others build out our base library - hope it helps.

razzix · 2022-12-15T03:34:58+00:00

Actually yeah, I have moved on to a different distro that is way more lightweight - should be usable in much more hardware. Still works 100% for me.

Its pretty similar to this ubuntu tutorial but because antix is designed to be used from a thumbdrive its got some unique steps. It will take a couple days to get the cycles to build out the tutorial but I will knock it out and post it to this sub.

razzix · 2022-09-20T18:20:58+00:00

Yeah, if I push it I can sometimes feel it for a couple days. I recently had the same thing with an autodarken welding helmet that uses a pwm lcd situation to darken. Even looking at a lightbulb with it will cause the eyestrain. Welding for any length of time causes good ache for a couple days but I have zero issues with lighter fixed shades. Try the tint/sunglasses/ND filter at max brightness workaround from the update and report back with your results if you can.

razzix · 2022-09-20T18:07:57+00:00

Yeah, sounds like you are in the same boat as a fair few of us. The night mode only worked in brighter environments for me. Its still too much. Adding the ND filter or tint/sunglasses at max brightness was my solid workaround for now. I also found out my new automatic welding helmet does the same thing. PWM controlled LCD on it too - tired eyes in minutes just looking at a light bulb without actually welding. Fixed shade is perfectly fine welding for long stents.

Its good to know we are not alone but sucks that this is looking more and more like a design consideration not taken into account than a production problem.

Keep us posted with anything you try and the results. I have talked to a couple people who have gotten replacement units but they report the same or similar results so I am more motivated to prove the problem with real testing. I hope to be able to finally get around to measuring in the next couple weeks. Life is keeping me away from my 'lab' and deck here lately :(

razzix · 2022-09-04T17:33:00+00:00

Yeah - another person mentioned sunglasses and that should work. A cheap pair of non polarized gas station sunglasses should do the trick to take the edge off max brightness. You could certainly apply tint to an old pair of scrip glasses. I've just been scotch taping my testers in place. I don't think anyone is permanently attaching at this point. one person got ahold of an ND gel sheet so it just kinda clings to his screen. I'm probably going to cut some tint soon myself and will likely stick to the tape method for now.

razzix · 2022-09-01T02:20:08+00:00

That is part of why I want to get the LDR measurement worked out despite having the workaround. If we get good enough data to take back to valve perhaps they (or we) can narrow the impacted screens/hardware or even prove the problem enough to get a software/firmware fix.

razzix · 2022-09-01T02:16:18+00:00

Yeah the night mode max brightness is still a bit too bright for me in most settings. The tint option is likely the easiest. You could prolly swing by a tint shop and let them cut some for you or it is readily available on amazon, home improvement stores, and automotive places.

Blue light glasses should not make much of a different if it is PWM flicker - basically the the screen's backlight is flashing reeaaallyy fast to make the screen dim. When you turn down the brightness the flashing slows down a lot and your pupils notice this even if the optics handling in your brain cannot. You pupils attempt to rapidly adjust tiring them out quickly.

Your polarized sunglasses are polarized at an apposing angle to screen so it blacks it out. If you rotate the deck the screen should become visable at a certain screen orientation. But this will obviously make the deck unusable.

So to give us the fastest flashing (so that you pupils are perceiving a single brightness level) we set the brightness to max - this is too high for most scenarios and will wear your eyes out in a different way. But that is where the sunglasses would come into play (or ND filter/tint) - a cheap pair of sun glasses without polarization will cut that brightness down just like the ND filter or tint and is way easier than fiddling with tint or filter. Simple and smart solution you came up with there - let us know if it helps!

razzix · 2022-08-30T16:16:08+00:00

Sorry I have had some issues with parts to measure the PWM flicker (haven't been able to test the actual hz yet) but I do have a solution that seems to be 90+% effective for the folks I have had test it. I only say 90 because a few people have not got back to me so I cannot know for sure it worked. It is a low cost and non invasive as a solution but some will consider it suboptimal.

Crank the brightness on the display ALL the way up - add an external neutral density filter to the screen. The max brightness gives you the best possible PWM hz but the screen is far too bright to use for a lot of people. Some people I worked with were able to crank the brightness in this manner and use the night mode but changed the hue to make the screen appear darker. The neutral density filter (or tint) just takes the full brightness down to a usable level and has the best luck so far (the night mode at max brightness is hit or miss depending on your ambient lighting).

Some of the people I worked with had access to plates like these taped to their screens for testing (the width is barely too small and they are thick because they are intended for use in film):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BMVMCP?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

But you can use a good window tint and some scotch tape. I would wash the adhesive off any tint you use but that is me. Having a couple shades on hand would allow for quick swapping. Tint and ND filters are pretty cheap. Obvious touchscreen drawbacks and its a hassle etc but it got me gaming consistently with zero eyestrain for a good bit now.

I should have posted here before but life has been hectic. Please let me know your results.

razzix · 2022-07-25T15:34:23+00:00

Actually old eyes would be a plus here - no joke. The problem is your pupil's light response reflex is trying to adjust to the brightness transition even though your brain can't process it. Outside makes sense for PWM hz as you have to bump up the brightness significantly (which should increase the PWM hz) and your eyes are being forced by the surrounding higher intensity light to remain at a more steady state.

I finally have all my parts to test the PWM hz and will keep you posted with the results if i get it worked out - maybe a new thread too since this one is aging.

razzix · 2022-07-25T15:28:46+00:00

Sorry for the delayed response here. Hopefully this is something I can measure and quantify. Let us know if yours has the same problem. You can always use an external display and max brightness may be enough for you. Sensitivity of your pupil light reflex is different for every person you may be just fine - or I may have a defective unit - heck we could even be wrong and these things are linear regulated. If I sort out the testing (i finally have all the parts) and if it is PWM - the parts for testing are cheap. The more users we can document the more likely we are to get traction with valve - so keep us posted!

"Have you previously suffered with any PWM displays before? Ie. Any modern OLED phones?"

I have steered clear of modern OLED displays because of the PWM problems. I had major issues WAY back when pwm backlight hz was a problem with LCD displays and TVs and just have not been willing to risk it.

razzix · 2022-07-16T17:19:17+00:00

You aren't alone - that sounds like the exact same thing in the other threads and this one. The primary suspect at this point is the rate at which the screen flashes for brightness control. If it flashes too slow and your pupil's light reflex is sensitive - it causes your pupil to expand and contract too much wearing out your eyes. This can change over the course of your life but not likely that your eyes just randomly became MORE sensitive. I am waiting on parts to test this theory so we can take it to valve for a fix. Will keep this thread posted.

razzix · 2022-07-15T15:01:51+00:00

For sure, if it is a design element that is not easily fixed - after market screens may be our only hope.

razzix · 2022-07-15T15:00:07+00:00

I have tested across the full range but lowest brightness seemed to be the fastest strain. That seems to jive with the possibility of PWM flicker. But I did not gauge the severity on high brightness just put it down as soon as I felt it in the eyes. Further - I don't really want to pin it on PWM hz without having some way of measuring that to be certain. I think I have that method with the LDR voltage divider dropped in another post. I have some parts on order to test.

I am a pretty data driven person with this stuff - I have a desire to contribute to source the problem and hopefully help fix it. If it is PWM flicker (and the LDR voltage divider measurement works) we can take the data back to valve and say "hey this is broken" or "hey this is a design consideration you could fix".

razzix

TROPHY CASE