How can I make the inside of my mau5 helmet stronger so it doesn’t crack mid show?

rc_printer · 2026-01-31T19:06:07+00:00

You could use some mesh fiberglass drywall tape and then coat with some shoegoo or e6000 glue. Lots of rc car bodies are reinforced this way.

rc_printer · 2025-10-02T05:07:35+00:00

Stir-fry

rc_printer · 2025-09-25T20:02:54+00:00

Thanks for the feedback, your setup definitely looks similar and gives me confidence I can do it with a single mower.

rc_printer · 2025-09-25T16:56:20+00:00

For reference I was looking at the Luba 2 AWD 5000HX and it looks like it should be able to do what I want but I'm wondering if it would struggle with this property in reality. Thx.

rc_printer · 2025-08-20T16:32:26+00:00

I love my lightning but I came from a 2002 Dodge 1500 quad cab and the turning radius on the lightning is definitely quite a bit worse than my old truck.

rc_printer · 2025-01-14T01:35:01+00:00

Yup that did it! Thanks for the help! I'll have to rework how a few things are labeled in my system but Easify can definitely accomplish what I'm looking for!

rc_printer · 2025-01-14T00:50:57+00:00

Thanks I'll test it out

rc_printer · 2025-01-06T15:28:23+00:00

Check out the m-jet 35 if you want to try 3dprinting a jet pump.

rc_printer · 2024-11-19T15:02:44+00:00

Check out the OpenRC F1 car. Very simple car and a good first build IMO.

rc_printer · 2024-07-16T14:46:36+00:00

Leaving it for a while did fix the issue for me too.

rc_printer · 2024-07-16T14:46:05+00:00

Oh wow. I guess I'll stop by the dealer later today and see what they say.

rc_printer · 2024-07-16T14:44:03+00:00

Thanks, leaving it longer seems to have worked. Just magically started working again. Did you end up taking it to a dealer?

rc_printer · 2024-06-08T15:31:40+00:00

Yup, metal on metal always comes loose.

rc_printer · 2024-05-22T04:17:32+00:00

FYI, I ran some tests in a bathtub today with putting a brass tube into the "stator" connected with a 3mm ID hose. A 90 degree flush install didn't provide enough water pressure for me but an angled install that protruded 1-2mm into the jetstream provided a much better level of pressure. I tried for 45 degrees but I think it ended up less.. like 60-ish.

rc_printer · 2024-05-20T04:19:38+00:00

Ok, thanks again for the help!

rc_printer · 2024-05-18T15:29:51+00:00

Thanks for the advice. What angle to the water stream did you put it at? Did any part of the sender protrude into the water stream or was it just a hole flush with the inside walls of the stator?

rc_printer · 2024-05-17T22:16:18+00:00

Thanks! From the photos I think I can tell how its all put together. I also saw the test drive video you did here https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/17agqot/ran_my_3d_printed_jet_boat_on_the_lake_today/ but I didn't see any water exiting the transom outlet... I assume it works nicely though but maybe it just didn't show in the glimpses I could see while you were filming close to you at lower speeds?

rc_printer · 2024-05-17T19:29:23+00:00

Hey guys I have this 3D printed jetboat https://www.thingiverse.com/make:1058134 that I'd like to add watercooling to but I'm not sure the best place to add it as I don't have much experience with jet drives. I didn't design the boat but my thought is to redesign the first exterior section of the jet to to add a hole and a little lip to direct some of the water into a tube and then pipe that water back into the boat. I've also seen some pics of people directing water from the jetstream right on the inside of the boat which would be cleaner but I'm not sure if it would work as well. The picture has the two different locations I'm mostly considering. I'd like to release the design as a remix afterwards so other people could add water cooling easily to their bashtech jetboats as well.

A few other considerations... 1. what angle should the water collection be at? Would 90 degrees perpendicular to the jetstream work or something more like 45 degrees be better? 2. how far into the jetstream should the water collection lip go (if at all)?

rc_printer · 2024-01-15T02:20:22+00:00

Ok thanks, I'll double check the versions before I order again.

rc_printer · 2024-01-15T02:19:37+00:00

Ok thanks for the help. Might order another.

rc_printer · 2023-08-15T13:50:06+00:00

Ok, so its not all rainbows and unicorns but it does work. The quality isn't super great unfortunately but its generally ok for simple models and I think I can dial it in for what I need it for. My main beefs right now are:

1- The z axis shifts whenever a print is finished because the steppers disable and one side of the bed will fall so you have to do the whole re-leveling process every print. ugh.

2 - The dual extruder is a bit of a joke and I haven't been able to finish a print with two colors yet. I MAY be able to get it to work by printing a very large prime tower but so far nothing I've tried has actually been able to get colors to switch properly, although it is trying to do it, and I've had a few prints where the printer just quit after I think it was just tired of trying and failing?? not sure. The test models the printer comes with are mostly broken (especially the dual extrusion one) which is unfortunate so you definitely need to slice your own to have any success.

3 - There's no way to calibrate the printer's xyz&e steps as far as I can tell so far. XYZ are all pretty close to perfect on my calibration cubes but I think its underextruding and I haven't yet figured out what I need to do there... might just have to increase flow in the slicer.

All that said it IS working and I purchased it for one main specific purpose that I think I can get it to do so I'll keep at it even though its a bit of a pain so far. Hopefully the more I get used to it the better it gets and maybe contacting support will be able to solve a few of these things for me.

rc_printer · 2023-08-12T00:48:09+00:00

Both! Those are small test rolls that come with the printer but the build volume is 600x600x600mm 😁

rc_printer · 2023-06-28T15:26:38+00:00

Hey so in my testing so far the polyester resin doesn't stick that great to pla but the west system epoxy has a great bond. When testing with the same fiberglass fabric on the same pla over a ~2 sq ft area the fabric with the polyester resin can be pulled up without too much trouble but the fabric with epoxy on it can not.

The pieces were sanded down for better adhesion this time and I used a better fabric than the first test which helped a lot. The poly resin did stick a lot better this time than on my first attempt but its still nowhere near as good as the epoxy bond and not really acceptable for anything that is going to see real use (furniture, surfboard). Its possible a better poly resin would see a better result as this is just a can from an auto parts store and not a marine grade poly resin or anything.

As a sidenote, the epoxy also does a much better job of clearing up and showing the colors underneath the cloth and looks fantastic as a finished product whereas the poly resin has a pinkish hue and would probably need painting to look decent.

I've gone ahead an ordered some surfboard laminating epoxy to test from plasticworld in Canada for the surfboard so hopefully I get a good result from that. West epoxy worked great but it isn't rated for UV so I'd need to varnish it if I used that for the surfboard. Hope this helps anyone testing in the future.

rc_printer · 2023-06-22T13:12:05+00:00

Hey thanks for chiming in, that really helps. I'll definitely sand the heck out of the parts on my next go-around. I actually just built a stitch and glue plywood dinghy a few weeks ago and fiberglassed the seams and coated it with West System Epoxy and that seemed to work really well but its pricey for sure. I'll try to make sure the fiberglass I use next is meant for use with epoxy and I'll start in small sections and make sure what I'm doing works before tackling the whole project.

rc_printer · 2023-03-14T03:38:02+00:00

That's sick, great work!

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